IAC Maintenance, it should be easy!

[bangbg]

I have a 2000 GTP 2 dr coupe with 140,000 miles on it that started having a minor stalling problem when braking to a stop. The car would refire immediately and drivability was normal other than that.

After doing searches here I determined that I needed to clean the IAC.

The IAC is fastened to the throttle-body by 2 -Torx head bolts. The first bolt was hard to remove but came out fine, the second was hard to remove and actually twisted off about 3/16" down from the based of the head.

The IAC definitely needed cleaning but now I am now faced with removing the bottom of the bolt from the throttle-body.

Can anyone explain how these stupid little bolts would have been torqued down so hard? Also it seems I now need to remove the whole throttle body to turn it so I can drill and ez-out the remaining piece of bolt.

Does anyone have any other suggestions other than that?

[Langning]

At least on my 2001 GT, the 2 IAC bolts are torx-looking but with a little point in the center so that my regular torx screw driver is useless. I think it is GM way of saying "leave it to dealer to fix it".

I would like to know if there is a special type of torx screw driver for IAC & TPS sensors.

[gprixgtp]

Originally Posted by Langning

At least on my 2001 GT, the 2 IAC bolts are torx-looking but with a little point in the center so that my regular torx screw driver is useless. I think it is GM way of saying "leave it to dealer to fix it".

I would like to know if there is a special type of torx screw driver for IAC & TPS sensors.

They are tamper resistant torx. Yes you can get them at any tool warehouse, sears, or most auto parts stores.

[BNaylor]

Not all '97 and up Grand Prixs have the Torx safety screws holding the IAC valve for some unexplained reason. I have standard Torx T20 on my GTP.

There is no need to overtorque or BFFI the IAC screws but people do. Once it is snug its fine. Torque figure is around 25 in-lbs. Anyways, there is an o-ing seal to seal it to the throttle body.

As to getting the broken one out, try WD40 and let it sit a while then try getting small vise grips in to hold it and then remove.

Using an EZ out on a screw that small will be very difficult if not impossible.

[bangbg]

Thanks to everyone for the input.

I was able to avoid destoying my TB and still get the broken bolt out. It isn't pretty but the integrity of the TB is not compromised.

I took it off and diassembled it to do the cleaning. The whole assembly is now carbon free in addition to the cleaning of the IAC. I bought contact cleaner to clean off that little wire on the MAF but it didn't look dirty at all and I didn't want to risk incurring further repairs by doing maintenance.

The car runs great the idle is steady and the stalling is completely gone.

Thanks again for the advice.