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#1
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A little less than a year ago (but sadly, about 13K miles ago) my transmission died a horrible death. Apparently it had been leaking from the accumulator cover seal (common problem) and the fluid got low enough to cause a meltdown. It cost me $2100 to have the tranny rebuilt at a local transmission shop (not AAMCO!!)
I wrote about the problem then and have warned others since then that letting these 4L30E's get hot ruins them PDQ. Well, I had to go out of town on business trip (about 140 mi). Today, when I started the truck to come home, it was shifting really hard. I didn't have much starting and stopping in the first 20 miles or so but then I had to stop at about a half dozen red lights a few tenths of a mile apart. On every start, the shift from 1st to 2nd was especially hard. Then the blasted A/T temperature light came on. What am I gonna do, I'm over a hundred miles from home? I pulled over, turned off the engine and got out to see if I could see anything wrong. I didn't see any signs of a leak.After about 10 minutes, I started the truck back up and the light went off. I drove gingerly for the first 10 miles or so and the light didn't come back on. I went ahead and got up to crusing speed and the light never came back on the rest of the way home. However, it feels like there is a little slippage when I start from a dead stop. Maybe it's just my imagination but it just doesn't feel exactly right. Anybody have any suggestions on what I should do next? I would hope the shop that fixed it would cut me a little slack on the 12 mo/12K mi warranty but they are really under no obligation to do so. I kind of hate to drain and refill the tranny to check the condition of the fluid just in case the shop would be willing to give me a break on repair #2. Has anybody had a similar problem? If it's gonna cost me another $2K to fix it, it may be up for sale. Thanks!
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JWS '99 Rodeo LSE 4WD '00 Escort ZX2 '00 Olds Silhouette |
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#2
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Re: Tranny Trouble (again!)
It can't hurt to double check transmission fluid level and condition, MUCH cheaper then repairing the transmission itself.
If a new transmission IS needed, look for a used one from a junk-yard, or there's a website that others have posted on here before, car-parts.com or something like that where you might be able to locate a used transmission for a very good price. FWIW - I've often heard that the rebuilds on these 4L30-E's typically don't hold well. It's too bad you're having so many issues with it. If you do end up selling it, you'll probably get creamed on the deal with a transmission issue, as used Rodeo's or Trooper's don't hold resale value well at all as it is; great for a buyer looking for a cheap used vehicle, but terrible for the seller.
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1997 3.2L V6 Rodeo 32" Yoko's, 16x8 MB Wheels, 2" lift, Brushguard, KC Fog's, Loadwarrior Rack On it's way to 185k strong ![]() 2004 3.4L Tacoma TRD off-road 4x4 Double cab 32" Yoko's, Westin Bull-bar, KC Fogs 60K miles
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#3
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Re: Tranny Trouble (again!)
JWS, did you verify your range sensor is functioning as it should? PRND321 dash lights acting normal means the range sensor is good. Things like bad IMG's or a weak charging system can also make a modern electronic trans go haywire. Start with the simple stuff like verifying proper ATF level & make sure your cooling system is up to snuff. It almost sounds like your torque converter may have run unlocked which caused the ATF to heat up big time & set the ATF temp light. The PCM can/will command the torque converter to unlock if it senses a misfire or operating concern. I'd have a reputable trans shop take her for a test spin & do a pan drop / filter change.
Joel
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2016 Subaru Forester 2.5i base CVT 2016 Nissan Quest SV |
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