93 3.8 problems

[Flopps]

Here's what I have going on with the old taurus currently...

The egr valve crapped out and melted the sensor and the wiring connector so I have to replace all of those and try to find a wiring harness connector at a local junk yard to fix that. Would this normally cause a very rich condition?

Secondly I get a background noise in the radio that varies with engine speed. The wires and plugs aren't too old. What else might cause a problem like this?

Last but not least. The wipers. I don't want to just go parts changing really until I get it figured out if I can help it. The wipers never will go to the recessed park position and they will sometimes go all the way up when you turn them off. Other times they will stop half way while running and then resume their travel. I hear a lot of clicking from the controller unit under the dash when I turn the switch. Sometimes when I hit the turn signal it will click a lot and activate the wipers. Has anyone had problems like this that would determine if it's the multi switch, the controller or the wiper motor unit?

Thanks.

[TaurusKing]

For the wiper problem, my son's 93 had the same issue, lots of clicking when the switch was used, in my case it I replaced the multi-function switch, that fixed that issue. For the egr issue, the valve itself is mechanical, don't know how it could melt anything, the pressure sensor and the little piece of rubber hose could be issues, the hose is susceptible to the engine heat, I think the sensor runs off like 5 volts, not quite sure I'd have to look it up definitively, I suppose if there were a short, the connector could melt, anything is possible, hopefully if it is a shorting issue, didn't work it's way back to any other engine controls, what computer codes are you receiving??? If the o2 sensor isn't switching, when car is warmed up, a rich condition could exist.

[TaurusKing]

Forgot the radio issue, is it the factory unit??? If yes I would think there must be some type of noise suppression unit somewhere, if aftermarket, not sure... I've used aftermarket in my cars, never had any problem with noise,, maybe I'm lucky???

[shorod]

Definitely need to know if the radio is original or aftermarket. If original, do you hear the engine noise on both AM and FM, or AM only? If AM only, you probably have a bad ground, possibly for the hood.

If aftermarket, then check your power and ground connections. If crimp splices were used, I'd suggest cutting them out and using solder instead. As TaurusKing suggested, most aftermarket radios of reasonable quality will include a noise choke (inductor) and filter (capacitor) to filter any power line noise. If the aftermarket radio is a cheapy, then you may need to live with the noise or get a better quality unit.

-Rod

[Flopps]

The radio is OEM. The noise is on FM as I don't typically listen to AM much so I am not positive it is happening on AM also. I plan on replacing the radio with an aftermarket unit when I am able, but didn't want to change it out if there was a problem besides the unit itself. Another question on the radio. If I replace the radio with an aftermarket unit, do I still use the amp unit in the trunk or not?

On the egr valve, it seemed like the valve got hot enough to melt the sensor and part of the wiring clip. The hose ended up melting also. I replaced both of the O2 sensors earlier this year. I need to clear the codes and recheck them as I was getting codes before and now I am not sure which ones are current. I have both rich and lean codes for both banks, and of course the egr code. I also have the O2 sensor voltage not switching during part throttle operation code on both banks.

[shorod]

So do you have the Premium Sound or JBL audio system? If you have an external amplfier from the factory, then that amplifier could be the source of your noise. You may have a cracked ground solder joint inside the amp, or a poor ground connection external to the amplifier.

If you choose to install an aftermarket deck, then I would suggest you bypass the amplifier. Bypass kits are available at most car audio stores and some department stores for a reasonable price. However, if you are planning to replace the factory deck due to sound quality (ignoring the current noise you are experiencing) chances are pretty good you won't be happy with the aftermarket stereo either, unless you have already upgraded the factory speakers. If you have not, then an aftermarket deck will probably soon blow the stock speakers anyway.

As for the EGR, does your 3.8L have the EVP sensor mounted on top of the EGR valve, and is that the sensor that appears to have melted? About the only way the EGR could get hot enough to melt that would be if the car is running extremely lean. If that's the case, there is a pretty good chance both the sensor and the EGR valve are shot. Of course you'll want to fix the root cause before you replace them, otherwise you'll melt the new ones as well.

Have you given your car a tune up, replaced the fuel filter, and run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner recently? You'll also want to check the engine coolant temperature sensor to make sure it is reporting accurately.

-Rod

[Flopps]

Yes it is the EVP sensor mounted above the EGR valve. I was thinking on sending the injectors out to get them cleaned and tested as the engine just hasn't run right since the trans and engine were rebuilt. I have changed the fuel filter. The ecu and the ircm have been replaced with new units and the coolant temp sensor has been replaced.

I'll check the amp to see if I can see anything that might be causing the problems. I have the stock speakers in it and it is the premium sound system.

[TaurusKing]

I didn't realize you had the evp sensor type, my son's car doesn't have that setup, my 87 does though... if you're melting that sensor, man you're making some heat somehow, maybe your connector corroded and shorted itself.. though I think that would be out there, usually the terminals get a little green and cause faults, a good cleaning and some dielectric grease take care of that..

[TaurusKing]

Oh yeah, one other thing, go buy yourself one of the $30 code readers, Actron, whatever, you can run a cylinder balance test whereby the reader shuts each injector off and checks the rpm drop, pretty nifty,, give you an idea how it's working,, it'll spit out a code for whatever cylinder # might be giving a problem.

[Flopps]

I have the actron code scanner. I didn't realize it would do a balance test like that. I will read up in the book and see what I have to do.

Thanks.

[shorod]

Originally Posted by Flopps

I have the actron code scanner. I didn't realize it would do a balance test like that. I will read up in the book and see what I have to do.

Thanks.

The cylinder balance test may not be an option in the scan tool itself, but once you've read the KOER codes, you can start the cylinder balance test. You can also perform this check using the manual code read by jumpering the wires in the EEC plug. Press the accelerator lightly within 2 minutes after the last code is output. The PCM will cancel each cylinder in turn and measure the RPM drop. If any weak cylinders are noted their number will be output as a multiple of 10 (e.g. 30, 40). The output is the actual cylinder number, not the number in the firing order.

-Rod

[Flopps]

I ran the balance test this morning twice and both times it came back as system pass. I got the new EGR valve and EVP sensor and some new plugs. I'll work on it some more tomorrow and see if I can't get it sorted out.

Thanks again.