Worth it to put money in it? Opinions needed.

[Tangent]

My wife currently drives a '99 Blazer LS 4x4 that's got a couple of issues.

The transmission starts banging into gear after any >15 minute drive. The trans was also severely overdue for a fluid change when I met my wife so at this point most trans shops are very reluctant to suggest fluid changes at all. (Fresh fluid might dislodge way too much built-up gunk at this point they say)

The A/C has stopped working and the symptoms point to a clog somewhere. It's got the right amount of pressure, but once the compressor kicks in the high-side pressure spikes and the low side plummets so of course the compressor immediately cuts out.

Needs new shocks. (not a big deal, but still...)

On top of that my wife simply isn't happy with it anymore and wants to move on to an X3 or Cert. pre-owned X5.

The dilemma: We would prefer to not buy a new car to replace the Blazer for another year or two. Going without A/C in the summer in So Cal just isn't feasable, and it's questionable if the tranny will survive the longer trips she'll have to make a few times per week this upcoming fall.

Is it worth it to put in the cash to fix the A/C and rebuild the tranny to get another year or two out of it or should we just trade it in as is? How much do tranny rebuild cost for the 4x4 transmissions anyway?

[OverBoardProject]

If you dump the money in now it'll be easier to sell next year when she's ready for another vehicle, and there's a good chance that she'll be happier to keep it at that point than pay for another vehicle for several years to come.

[muddog321]

AC about $750 for a new compressor - do not use rebuilt as they fail quickly and about $50 diff only! Common GM problem as seals go and the pressure switch also often goes. As for the clunk its drive train noise and probably not the trans, but someone is BS you. Change the trans filter and fluid and the rear diff 80w-90 gear oil, check the driveshaft U-joints for wear/sloop, and change the transfer case fluid (you said LS so probably 3 button 4wd, but if Autotrak 4 button uses special fluid). That should help but did not know the mileage.

[Tangent]

Originally Posted by muddog321

As for the clunk its drive train noise and probably not the trans, but someone is BS you. Change the trans filter and fluid and the rear diff 80w-90 gear oil, check the driveshaft U-joints for wear/sloop, and change the transfer case fluid (you said LS so probably 3 button 4wd, but if Autotrak 4 button uses special fluid). That should help but did not know the mileage.

I hear a small clunk as wellwith the windows down but I was already pretty sure that was just minor driveline slop. The banging into gear I was talking about is when the computer reads trouble from the trans and goes to default max line pressure and the normally smooth shifting transmission bangs into gear like a drag racer. If it had the power/weight ratio these shifts would get pretty healthy chirps out of the tires...

[blazes9395]

The banging into gear is a trans problem, you have to get it scanned and let us know what code your getting. Either way it sounds like the p1870 code. As the trans warms up, the fluid gets thinner and begins to leak past valves in the valve body causing problems. The computer senses this and eventually command max line pressure to help save the transmission - this is where you get those nice tight hard shifts, with the 1-2 shift being the worst as there is a huge ratio difference between 1-2. It could be a bad EPC or PWM solonoid, or it could be the bad TCC regulator- the last one is very common on these trannies. Either way, it doesn't sound like you need a tranny overhaul, the very least a solonoid, the very most a updated valve body, both can be done with the tranny in the truck. As for the A/C, I agree with maddog, looks like a common seal problems(s), a competent tech should be able to figure this one out. Get it scanned first so you can have a better idea of whats going on.

[billibong]

I have a 99 LS and I can tell you that the new compressor that I put in at the end of last summer was NOT $750. I got prices of about $250 for a new compressor with about $50 core charge. I was able to get a used compressor with a 90 day warranty from a junk yard, and it is still working fine. I also checked out prices on the internet and was able to find rebuilt compressors with a 12 month warranty for about $125-150.
If you decide to replace the compressor yourself (very easy), just make sure to replace the orifice tube when you do it. After it is installed take it to a shop to have them draw a vacuum and recharge it for you. I paid a guy $50 at one of the shops in my area to do it for me on his own time.
I would agree with blazes9395 about the tranny.