01-04 Jatta 1.8T owners? Do you think it's normal?

[serjay]

I just bought a 02 Jatta 1.8t(stock 177hp) 5-spd, also I have 98 Passat 1.8T(stock 150hp) Semi-Automatic, and it seems like jetta is weeker and has slower response then my passat even though it's a 5-spd, and I would say if my passat has 150 hp then it feels like jatta has only around 140hp. I remember I had a 1.8T Audi A4 5-spd and I had lots of power at 4000rpms same in passat, but in jetta I feel the peak power at around 3200 and it doesn't really changes to the redline. Also it has a slow acceler. response for example, when I shift down to change the lane in rush hour traffic, it doesn't gain speed as fast as I would gain it on my Auto Passat or Audi A4, (I have C280 mercedes and it is 190 hp and I can feel it, but I can't feel anything close to 180 in my jetta)

Do you experience the same thing with your car? or it's only my car does like this? Check engine light is not on.

The reason I'm asking this question because I just bought it and I don't know if it's normal, (I should just go to a dealler and test drive another 02 1.8t jetta to compare). Also I'm thinking maybe this happens because in this engine there is no trouttle cable, it uses a reostat or someting, so maybe this is the reason.

If you have 01-04 1.8T Jetta then let me know what do you think about this and tell me if it's samething that you experiencing with your car.

Thank you

[Gotian]

I have an 02 JETTA 1.8t and I'm completely satisfied with it. I race with mine and I dont see what your talking about. I laugh at passats and even at A4's. My car stock was even beating the brand new GLI's so I have no clue to what is wrong with yours. And the power on the jettas kick in at 1900RPM where it doesnt go down until you get to 6000.

[veedubmechanic]

search google for "1.8t torque curve"

thats all you need to know

[Carbon Fibre]

All i know is this engine produces more than 180 bhp. On the dyno, it puts out something like 175 at the front wheels Considering drivetrain losses, it makes much more. This is the tuner engine of the future. Wit an intake, exhaust, injectors, chip, and a bigger turbo and intercooler, this engine has put out over 350 hp. I have seen this setup on 92 octane with a laptop programmable ecu and exhaust gas temp. sensors on every clender(before the turbo, kinda unsafe for the turbo), which had every cylender tuned individually, at 30psi of boost put out 400+ through a neuspeed 6-speed tranny kit at the front wheels. The thing managed to put down the power with a quafe diff. and exessive body mods (Kevlar, carbon fiber, epoxy construction of the floorpan, roof, hatch, and doors) that made weight at 1450lbs! The floorpan and front clip were modified to accept an Auti Quattro system in the future, but the last I knew it was being used as a daily driver (tourque so low his wife drove it!) with over 65k on the build w/a used block andstock internals. Tampa street racers found out that a hatchback could beat their nsx, Viper or their Vette! This is going in my Rocco as soon as school gives me the ability to pay for it

[serjay]

Originally Posted by veedubmechanic

search google for "1.8t torque curve"

thats all you need to know

Thanks for reply! Can you be more specific? or send me the exact site of what you wanted to show me? Although I kind of know what you're talking about, I have owned 98 A4 1.8T also I have 98 passat 1.8T and I can see the reason why I want rpms on those, but on that jetta feels like there is not reason to accelerate till 4000 or even more, just making more noise but nothing else.

I'll tell you little bit more about it, since I've seen you as a good advisor to many VW owners on this forum (not like others telling irrelevent things, because I have some mechanical skills too, and easily can see if the person knows something or just pretending)

This is 02 Jetta 1.8T 56k miles, 5spd. I bought this car as a mechanic's special because:
I'm the third owner, the 2nd owner got it at 19k miles, drove it till now and oil light came on while he was driving, so he pulled over, called a tow truck and got towed to a VW Dealer, they inspected the car and told him that the engine is fully sludged up. He told me that he never drove it after the oil light started to come on(which is probably true). When I was buying it, the top portion of engine was knoking(most likely lifters) but not the rod bearings, sounded just like diesel, I even checked the fuel door make sure it's not a diesel. When I was buying it the only light was on is check engine light but not oil light, but when rpms were about to reach 2000rpms the oil light was coming on. So I towed it home, droped oil pan, took off the oil pump screen and there was a very thick layer of sladge, so I cleaned it up, put new oil in, started the engine, and it worked for couple seconds and then "diesel sound" totally disappeared. And now the oil light never comes on doesn't matter if it's 2000rpm or 7000rpms. Anyway, I went to the AutoZone to check a check engine light and it was P0012 code which is camshaft position actuator/sensor. So I opened the hood touched the connections of that sensor and the next time I started the car there was no check engine light on. Now I'm driving the car with all light off, and I feel like it has around 130-140 hp (110torque). So I'm thinking maybe it's just that cableless trottle? because my audi or passat had cabled throttle and it feeled my different. Or maybe there is still something wrong with that engine.

Sorry for such long reply, I hate to read them too, but I just couldn't write it any shorter without skipping something.

Let me know what's your opinion on this.

Thank you

[Carbon Fibre]

Considering the oil sludge problem and the loss of power at high rpm, I would check out the turbo. I would suspect that you either have or had a loss of oil pressure at the turbine bearings. This could have damaged the bearings, possibly seized them. your engine would still run, and I doubt any warning lights would come on. I don't know if your car has a boost guage, this would tell you.
You could tell if the turbo is presently getting oil by putting a guage in the oil return line (the clean way to do it) or by disconnecting the oil return line and letting it drip or squirt out into a catch can while having a buddy bring it up to like 1200 rpm (in park). The return line is usually the one travelling upward, say to the valve cover, but don't quote me.
I have seen turbines that have melted down due to bad oil supply, but that was in racing conditions. Yours probably isn't reaching anything near the 80-100,000 rpm it should under full boost, but probably isn't spinning at all by now. They are rebuildable for less than a new unit, which is probably suited to your case. good luck

[serjay]

Actually before I read you reply, I worked on that car, and here is the another thing, the turbo does make a very loud whistling sound, you can hear it inside with closed windows, it starts making that sound at around 1800rpms, so I chccked boost and it's "0", I checked for the leaks in intake pipe and there is no leaks, holds pressure. Wastegate is closed too, never opens because there is no boost, so I guess it's something wrong with turbo, possibly broken fins or something. Let me know if you have any other idea before I start pulling it off, because it's a lot of work.

Thanks

[Gotian]

Originally Posted by serjay

Actually before I read you reply, I worked on that car, and here is the another thing, the turbo does make a very loud whistling sound, you can hear it inside with closed windows, it starts making that sound at around 1800rpms, so I chccked boost and it's "0", I checked for the leaks in intake pipe and there is no leaks, holds pressure. Wastegate is closed too, never opens because there is no boost, so I guess it's something wrong with turbo, possibly broken fins or something. Let me know if you have any other idea before I start pulling it off, because it's a lot of work.

Thanks

Well first things first, the turbo is always going to whine, it's supposed to. 2nd, its possible for the turbo to build sludge aswell since oil does go through it. if this is the case then there might be something wrong with more than the turbo. After driving for a good while and you turn off your car the fan is supposed to stay on and the oil is supposed get pushed out of the turbo by cooler oil, this is a reason why we dont need turbo timers if we remain stock, but if that process isnt working properly then the oil is getting cooked inside your turbo and sludging it up.

[veedubmechanic]

If the oil pump was sludged, everything in the oiling system is sludged. Replace the cam chain tensioner, oil pump, and the turbo itsself is most likely shot. If the turbo did not have proper oiling even for 30 sec it can destroy the bushings. Yes vw turbos have bushings not bearings like aftermarket turbos have.

[serjay]

I replaced turbo and checked the boost and it's at 8 kPa at 2100 rpms, so and the car has some power now but it still, makes that "diesel" noise when I start it.