Lets get this bugger back to working!

[DOCTORBILL]

OK- I will start this thread to begin working on getting my '93 Geo Metro 3 cylinder / 1 L.
gas saver back in working order.....

First - this is a continuation of threads started last Fall. I stopped due to the awful
weather here in Spokane County (Palouse grass farm area).

I have my Throttle Body (TB) Top off and I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator on it.
(Previous thread). Still has the used Fuel Injector in it - can't get it off - the screw
threads are Thread-Locked permanently....dumb bozos!

I bought a new Fuel Pump because I thought the old one was bad. May still be.....

I connected the battery and had my daughter turn the key. Gas came out of one hose -
not gushing, but it flowed.

I blew back on the other hose and air went thru back to the tank - I heard it bubble out.
So the gas lines are good. The fuel filter is new.

An interesting observation - the wire harness (two wires) under the seat is not connected
and has not been for some time - the connectors are corroded! One wire is actually
gone! Is this not the two wires supposedly for the Fuel Pump..? The fuel pump works!
Maybe someone rewired the fuel pump....

Onward.

I took some pictures of something I should know the name of, but forgot!





Is this thing not connected to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGRV)?

If the tube port coming out is plugged with Carbon - then I'm up Merde Creek, no?

I would assume that I must remove the Intake Manifold and clean all that carbon out
of it, clean out the EGRV and the gallery that goes up to the Throttle Body on the
other side of the Intake Manifold....

What else would be all carboned up? Why did this happen?

By way of review - this car stopped running last Fall. Would run only when the gas pedal
is pumped hard. Did that old "sweet spot" BS of falling off when the gas pedal was
floored. Had to find the best throttle position for it to run.

I have a used Engine Computer Module (ECM) which I put pictures of on this Forum last
Fall. The ECM gives no error code.

I replaced the MAP Sensor with a new one, but to no avail - still crapped out as described.

I replaced the O2 sensor last Fall - to no avail....

DieInterim (too bad he bailed out of this forum!) said I probably have a bad Fuel Pump.
I will put a 12v car battery directly on the wires once I find them and test the actual
pressure w/o having the computer shut it off in 2 seconds...

That's all for now. I will keep this thread going as I work on the little bugger-all vehicle!

I need it - gas is up to $3.02 here in Spokane and my 4 L Jeep Cherokkee gets only 22
mpg. I need that 47 mpg the Metro did before it went T.U. I drive 75 miles round trip
every day to work! Thats $10.30 just to go to work each day! Merde!

DoctorBill

[bansheetaz]

its the EGR transducer

[DOCTORBILL]

"Transducer" implies electrical - no?

I see no wires going to it... What does it actually do? Is THAT causing me troubles?

Can it be cleaned out....?

I seem to be having 'deja vue' here - did I work on one of these thing-a-ma-bobs last Fall?

I have to go back thru all my old threads and review this stuff.

Don't get old folks - it rots your brains.

What...?

DoctorBill

[Crvett69]

you can do a fast check of pump to see if its working right by pulling the return line off the firewall, placing end in a gas proof container and starting car up. you should get a good stream of fuel coming out of return line. ig you get little or no fuel either your pump is bad or filter is plugged. i had one that would start fine but wouldn't go over about 40 mph and if you stepped on peddle would slow down and cut out. fuel pressure at tb check out good so i tore car apart looking for other problems, after replacing most of the electronics on car i decided to do a flow test. pulled return line off and had 0 fuel coming out when car was running. replaced pump and its been running fine ever since. only takes 5 minutes ot test, might want to give it a try. since you will be working with raw fuel take appropriate precautions and loosen gas cap before removing return line

[DOCTORBILL]

First of all - my engine is not running. The EGR system is packed with CARBON.

I will probably have to remove the Intake Manifold (IM) and get all the Carbon out from the
exhaust port into the IM all the way thru the EGR Valve back to the fuel spray portion.

I remember from one of my previous threads (with pictures) of how that carbon had TOTALLY
plugged up an IM from one end to the other!

SO..........I can hook up a good 12v car battery (I have two on my work bench) to the fuel pump
and see if it pumps fuel and check the pressure w/o having the engine run.

Questions:

1. How many gallons per minute should a good pump pump?

2. Once it is deemed a good flow, if I put a gauge on it (no flow allowed), what pressure should
I observe from a good pump?

3. How long should I let the pump run to make sure it won't crap out after a while?

4. That connector under the driver's seat - thats to the fuel pump no?
How can mine be unconnected and the fuel pump still ran when the key was turned on?

Please address all three questions.....

BTW - I had a VW Bus 20 years ago and it had an 'intermittant' bad fuel pump. Made my life
miserable and costed me a fortune to find out what was wrong with the vehicle!
.........Intermitant stuff is the work of the Devil! The devil exists and teaches Automotive Design!

DoctorBill

[Crvett69]

the one under the drivers seat is for a seat belt warning light, the one to the fuel pump connects under the back seat on the pass side. you should have around 15 psi for pressure. the egr system being plugged should not prevent car from starting and running. i would keep looking for a different problem before tearing intake off

[geozukigti]

A plugged EGR will eventually wind up being a burnt exhaust valve. The EGR system is used to cool combustion chamber temps during a lean burn. Later model metros(newer than 91), use lean burn to get better mileage, but require the EGR to allow a cooler combustion chamber. If it remains plugged, the exhaust valve will start to warp, become brittle, and come apart. Clean that system out! A set of pipe cleaners and de-carb will do a good job.

If you peel back the carpet to the left of the drivers seat, you'll see a pink wire. That's the power line for the fuel pump. I believe they're rated at 70lph(18.5 gallons per hour). If you wanna test how long it'll run, just loop the fuel line to the fuel return line, and let it pump gas right back into the tank. I'd let it run for about 2 hours, see how it does. Also, make sure the blue 15a fuse in the relay box under the hood isn't blown. That operates the fuel pump relay.

[idmetro]

When my engine went south I was cruising down the freeway and Kathunk!! lots of rattling and shaking along with a James Bond smokescreen out behind me. Car idled fine but anything above idle was like a garage band gone bad.... Limped it home tried replacing various tuneup items with no change, finally ran a compression check to find 160/155/0 in the three cylinders, this prompted my purchase/installation of JDM motor.
I tore down the old motor and found the EGR totally plugged (I was ignorant of the need to clean it...) as well as a chunk the size of my thumbnail gone from the #3 exhaust valve.
So I am guessing you probably have other issues keeping you from running. Don't give up; you will get your Metro back on the road!