Windstar died suddenly on the road

[Scott Farrington]

I'm looking for possibilities as to why my 1995 Ford Windstar suddenly died on the road. It had been running perfectly when I noticed loss of power. It was unresponsive to giving it more gas. One city block later the engine just cut out on me. Afterwards, it started once and ran for few seconds, but now it cranks but won't turn over. No warning lights appeared on the dashboard before it lost power and stalled. There were no previous signs of impending problems.

Any suggestions as to where I should start looking would be appreciated. If it is an electronic problem, where to start with fuel delivery being controlled by so many sensors

[12Ounce]

I'm not familliar with your model, but if faced with your problem I would check two things first:
1. Fuel. With the key "on", do you have fuel at the test valve on the fuel rail?
2. Ignition. If you lift a spark cable, can you get a spark-to-ground when someone cranks the engine over? An extra spark plug makes this test easier.

Be careful on both these tests!

BTW ... I'm not sure I understand when you say it will crank but not turn over???

[aldovera]

BTW ... I'm not sure I understand when you say it will crank but not turn over???[/quote]

For some people, I think, that means it will crank but it won't fire.

[CoachKarl]

Ignition problem would have left a code, CEL. (Probably)
My guess is a fuel issue. as in . . dare I say . . .

Out of gas?

Sounds perfectly like an Out of gas situation.

or

bad fuel, water in gas tank, bad fuel pump, bad fuel cutoff solenoid, broken fuel line, bad harness connection to fuel pump/cutoff solenoid (check the one closest to the fuel tank).

Post back with what you find.

Karl

[wiswind]

Fuel flow is not monitored by the PCM, so it will not set a code.

Fuel pump relay on the '95 is most likely like my '96....inside the CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module).
There is an updated CCRM with better sealed relays available from FORD.
The common failure was not getting power to the fuel pump after running the engine during below freezing conditions, turning it OFF for about 15 minutes or so.....and then it would not re-start.
The better sealed relays were to fix that problem.

While listening carefully, turn the key to the "on" position, but not to the "start" position. You should hear the fuel pump run for just a second or so.
If not, the fuel pump is not working, for some reason.
This can be caused by the fuel pump not getting power, most likely a connection issue in the electrical path to the pump, or a bad fuel pump.
Also, as mentioned above, the fuel cutoff solonoid, aka inertia switch, is located next to the jack in that storage compartment in the back.....below the back of the jack, as I remember.

A clogged fuel filter (under the car, just in front of the driver side rear wheel) can also cause fuel flow problems.
Worth a try also.

[CoachKarl]

oh yeah, and the fuel filter being clogged. Check that first.

Hello wiswind, Karl here.

Concerning this CCRM gizmo. I noticed in other posts that you replaced it. I have a situation on my 95, 3.8 178K miles, where, during the summer, and for the past "many", driving to the beach in above 90 degree weather, the temp gauge nearly pegs. It goes clear into the "N" of "normal"! I was wondering, if my "high" radiator fan setting was not working. Over the last few years this has always been the case. I thought I licked this problem when I replaced the radiator, then when I put on an aux trans cooler, but, the problem persists, I guessed this was a sign of old age, but, in hind site, I've driven worse in years past through death valley with no hint of an engine heat problem. I now think I know whats wrong. . . . How do I test that 230 degree setting? Golly, a real shop manual would be very handy now.

Karl.

guess this is a new topic, Wiswind. Post back under a subject of 95-6 CCRM, I guess. . . AND hey Scott! pay attention to this guy, (Wiswind). Oh heck, pay attention to all these great guys. I'm so impressed by this forum.