what glues do you use?

[indybhogal]

Hi just wondering what glues everyone uses. I tried CA tamiya cement but that left horrible white clouds everywhere where i finger printed the car with the glue by accident. So i popped into ma hobby shop and asked for some clear glue and he gave me CA ZAP clear glue but this is really thin and goes everywhere, and still leaves white marks. Can you recommend any decent glues and tell me where I can get them from please. Thanks

[gasman03]

I use model Master lLiquid Cement for most of the plastic parts. it dries fast and very little goes a long way. I've been using the same bottle for about 4 years now.

for my clear parts I use Tamiya extra thin cement. it does'nt fog. but its really runny. so I need to be careful when using it.

edit:
Forgot, you can also use Elmers white glue. its not as strong as the other glue but if you make a mistake, you can just peal off the old glue. and try again.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

CA glues are good for most applications but clear parts, but you have to be careful with them! The problem isn't the glue, the problem is how you are handling it.

If you can't escape fingerprints as you learn to build you'll need to use a very mild glue like Micro Krystal Kleer or Formula 560 Canopy Glue (both are best for clear parts to avoid the white haze and plastic/paint damage). They are thick white glues that stick okay when wet and great when dry and you can wipe up fingerprints before they dry w/a damp cloth or Q-Tip. Much slower building this way than w/CA glues, but they're safe and you can get out of trouble easily.

But seriously you should be working on being more careful with avoiding fingerprints. Any kind of liquid glue is going to give you problems until you clean up your gluing act.

I use CA about 60% of the time (assembling parts that I've already painted using a drop or dab of accelerant on the mated parts to make sure it dries quickly), I use liquid styrene cement about 30% of the time (assembling parts/sub-assemblies prior to painting), and Formula 560 about 5-10% of the time (glass/lenses/small details on finished painted parts).

[Lambo003]

I use Tenax 7 R on plastics. . . Nice, quick drying glue. . .

I try to avoid CA's whenever possible and when I do need to use them I make sure there's a air flow to remove the fumes, either by blowing directly on 'em or with a small fan. If I need to use CA on a clear part, waxing the part prior seems to diminish the haze. . .

Mostly use resins/epoxies or a waterbased gloss coat for workin' with clear parts. . .

Got to have an assortment of glues and experiment which works best for you. . .

[stevenoble]

I use Plastruct Plastic Weld liquid cement which dries very fast (almost instant)
I apply it with a fine pointed model brush for accuracy and flow it into joints etc before I paint the parts.I will sometimes use a 2 part epoxy glue where I want strength but don't want to run the risk of using CA glue for fear of fogging etc.For gluing clear parts such as headlight lenses I will use Bostik All Purpose wood glue (no fogging and it dries clear)
For attaching my windows I use double sided carpet tape.Its very strong,invisible and has no risk of fogging at all.Just run a small section around your windows on the inside of the bodyshell.It holds them in place instantly.

[quadzero]

I use Testors liquid cement for some of my work. about 3/4's of a model I build is done with CA glue. I dont know how I ever got anything done without it before. like ZoomZoom says, "The problem isn't the glue, the problem is how you are handling it." just have to be carefull and have some ventilation too. I use Elmers white glue for the head lights.

[mickbench]

I'm sure I've posted this before but anyhow, as Zoom Zoom as so elegantly put it, you need different glues for different tasks. Knowing what glues work for each task, and handling them correctly is the key to gluing parts without a mess.

I tend to use Tamiya Thin Cement if I've not painted yet. Very good for gluing bumpers to bodies etc, as this glue is thin and will not fill up the panel lines.

If I need to fill a small gap at the same time, I use Revell Contacta cement, but only if the parts haven't been painted. And this glue takes a while to cure, so use tapes, pegs or rubber bands to hold the parts together.

If I've painted, but can remove some of the paint, I use thin C/A. Plastic safe, or Tamiya C/A quick type.

If I need to fill a gap with painted parts, I sometimes use Zap thick gap filler. But it can sometimes haze the paint. Use carefully

If I can’t remove the paint, but need a strong joint, I used thin C/A

If I'm using P/E I use C/A or clear paint.

For clear plastics, when I need it to be strong I use Epoxy 5 min resin, and if it starts to haze or seep, wash it off with water BEFORE it cures.

All the rest where I can't risk hazing, glue spots, damage to paint etc, its water based white glue.

HTH.

[bvia]

Ambroid Pro-Weld for plastic-to-plastic gluing.
Testor's clear for uhm, clear parts.
A rebranded non-fogging CA glue in both gap filling and thin (along with the same brand of CA accelerator) for everything else.
...and occasionally a 2-part Epoxy resin glue for when I need adjustment time.

hth

[RallyRaider]

If you are using CA and getting cloudy marks everywhere you're using too much. Only a very small amout of CA is required and is best applied with a toothpick or pin. Position small dots of CA where they won't flow out and be seen, fit the part and you're done, small amounts also makes the CA harden and stick faster than a puddle of the stuff.

Other glues will be appropriate on certain situations as mentioned above e.g. plasticweld for bare polystyrene, epoxy when you need the "fiddle factor" and white PVA for small parts. Even clear paint can be used as glue sometimes. Lots of options and applications.

[cbrain]

Me, I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement for most parts. I also sometimes use Tamiya's standard Plastic Cement on parts where extra strength is needed.

For clear parts like headlights and taillights, I use a very small amount (something like booger) of blu tac applied on the corners of where the part should go. I use more of the blu tac for the windows.

I've read somewhere that Future or Klear acrylic floor polish is also good for gluing clear parts. Haven't tried that yet though because it isn't available where I come from.

[JTRACING]

I use ambroid proweld for plastic parts,
2 part epoxy for windows,
super glue for PE and other metal parts.
white glue for flocking

[defjukie]

i use humbrol clear poly for most parts, although you have to be careful as it can blister/dissolve paint.

For parts that have a lot of tension through them, such as suspension etc. I use loctite superglue but you have to get the positioning right first time as it bonds parts together in about 2 seconds.

Humbrol clearfix is specially designed to not fog clear parts so it can be really useful for headlights lenses etc, but it still dissolves paint. I read in a magazine the other day that PVA glue is good for gluing windows but I haven't tried it - you must have to be pretty patient to hold a part in place waiting for water based glue to dry.

[patoffspyder]

Someone can told me what is CA glue?
Personnaly I use Tamiya Thin Cement for almost everything, except on clear parts. On them, I use Model Master Glue for clear parts.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by patoffspyder

Someone can told me what is CA glue?
Personnaly I use Tamiya Thin Cement for almost everything, except on clear parts. On them, I use Model Master Glue for clear parts.

CA is shorthand for cyanoacrylate glue, aka superglue.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Super_glue