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#1
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I'm due for my first oil change soon, but I have run into a problem.
The ramps I have been using for the past 15 years or so for my previous cars are too high for my G20 because the front end is so low. Other than jacking the car, anyone have any suggestions or personal experiences to offer? |
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#2
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all i know of is the jack, unless you own a shop and a lift. other than that, use the factory jack.
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#3
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If you use the factory jack to raise your car please, please, please don't get under it without securing the car with jack stands and wheel blocks. I don't know what they cost in the US, but they are cheap! My car is so low that I can't even fit my head under it...I'd hate to imagine what would happen if it fell on me or anyone while they were under it. Please everyone exercise proper saftey when working on your car.
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#4
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Quote:
![]() Remember, G20s are for driving, not for squishing people. |
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#5
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oops i never knew that :hehehe:
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#6
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just got to your dealer and get the oil changed. much faster and easier and safer. hehe
yah, definitely use jack stands when operating under your car. I even used it when I installed the TEIN's because I had to get inside the car to get to the tower nuts on the rear. well, it sped up everthing too.btw, the factory jack is probably safer to use than a $40 Larin piece of sh't hydraulic jack. those things are only good for about 10 lifts before the seals break. damn dangerous. without warning...psyuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut! and your gone...and your wife makes $1000000 from life insurance. hehehe. good deal for her.
__________________
1998 Prelude SS - TEIN HA with upper pillows, SSR Integrals 17x7 with SP8000 (215/45), GReddy Evo catback, Iceman Comp Intake, DC Sports header, Apexi VAFC, ZEX 55 shot with bottle heater, NOS blanket, Factory Body Kit, Spoon F/R tower bars, JDM Foglamps, Carbon Fiber trim, Razo pedals &knobs, Fiamm Dual air horn Future Mods: Lighten car, 2nd 10lbs nitrous bottle would be nice too. 2001 G20 P11 AT- TEIN NA, TRM Snipers 17x7 with Potenza RE910 (215/45), Arospeed Dual-outlet Muffler, K&N Drop-in Airfilter, WW Front Lip, Nakamichi MB75 1DIN 6CD Changer/Receiver, FIAMM Dual Air horns, Levoc Pedals, PIAA (H4 Superwhite H3 Ion Crystal, 168 SuperWhite) 2002 WRX MT- TEIN HA's with upper pillow mounts, 1000Miglia HT3 17x7 with sumitomo HTR+ 225/45/17, painted side skirts, Cusco front & rear strut bar, Whiteline rear swaybar, aluminum endlinks, Blitz NUR Catback, HKS seq. BOV, factory front lip, rear valance, Kartboy short shifter and bushings. Future mods: dressup wheels with Potenza S03 225/45/17 tires, TurboXS UTec, maybe an uppipe. by then, it'll be fast enough.fiamm dual air horns. |
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#7
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just use a nice jack hydralic jack lots nicer then a factory jack the only cost around 60 bucks good investment
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2001 Infinti G20 Greddy Cat Back Stillen Strut bar |
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#8
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I think the best thing would be is to buy four jack stands, lift the car with the car jack and then place the stand under it. It safer and probably easier to work under the car with. Don't know of prices on stands, but couldn't be all that expensive. Just my thought.
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Why do banks charge you a "non-sufficient funds fee" on money they already know you don't have?
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#9
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Thanks for the tips everyone.
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#10
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:o Well this is what I do wehn it comes time to change the oil.
I also have the ramp's that I bought for my Pathfinder, so what I did for the G ride was, I purchased 4 2X4 cut all in half let 4 long cut the 4 half again & then another 4 to half again, basicly I made some steps for my G like a ramp extenders wich you can also purchase at sears for around $40.00 I didnt know they had these so I built my own I have a 1" 1/2 space when I am pulling up onto the ramps. There are just wide enough for the stock tires, Modify width as needed!:licker:
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(I hear what you are saying but I feel you are lieing to me, would love to say to BUSH!) "Don't trip, skip, pinch your forehead"! 1988 CRX Si 2001 CBR 600F4i Silver & black FAST! 2004 Toyota Tundra (TRD) 2002 dodge grand caravan. |
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#11
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It doesn't matter whether you use the factory jack or a hydraulic jack--BUT YOU MUST USE SOME TYPE OF STAND.
For a simple oil change, it's more stable to use 2 jackstands instead of 4. If your parking brake seems weak for some reason, use 4 stands. Of course, there are all the other safety precautions: level surface, other wheels locked, safety blocks, eye protection, etc. If possible, it would be even safer to find another pair of ramps (ones that fit). Ramps are best for oil changes since they are quick and easy to use, and if for some reason your car starts rolling, it will just roll down ramps instead of tipping over jackstands. The curb ramp: My own method is really simple, but it won't work with some cars. First figure out which side the oil drain plug is on. Then find a driveway and line up the car parallel to the curb, with the plug side closer to the sidewalk. Then slowly ease the front tire up the inclined driveway/curb border until the tire rests on the level area (Make sure the contact patch is completely on the cement, not hanging over). So one tire will be on the elevated curb, one tire will be on the flat driveway entrance, and the other two tires will be in the street. If your car has a low ride-height, just find a driveway curb with a more gradual incline. Obviously, this is ONLY for simple duties such as oil changes, but it's quick and safe. |
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#12
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#13
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Ha ha, no doubt. I had to learn the hard way (damn rust).
It's too bad we aren't all well trained like the Nascar pit teams. A few times, televised events showed the rigs toppling over the jacks while a crew member would be adjusting trim or whatnot from underneath the race car... but not once did I see the professionals allow themselves to get munched; they have this pre-planned roll-out technique always ready to use to get out of harm's way. Why doesn't Nascar allow onboard hydraulic jacks? They are far safer. |
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#14
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if you wana save your money, buy a milwaukee hydraulic jack. they're about $500 each,but the seals are excellent and last a looong time (from what I hear) also the norca or norco or whatever brand name they have which is $200.
those cheep hydraulic jacks only last 10 lifts, or at best 15-20. I got one of those $40-50 just to work on the G when I put the TEIN's on. after a few more uses on my other cars, the seal was gone. but that's how it is with those cheep jacks. I only use factory jacks now...the one that comes with the car and use jack stands and chokes.
__________________
1998 Prelude SS - TEIN HA with upper pillows, SSR Integrals 17x7 with SP8000 (215/45), GReddy Evo catback, Iceman Comp Intake, DC Sports header, Apexi VAFC, ZEX 55 shot with bottle heater, NOS blanket, Factory Body Kit, Spoon F/R tower bars, JDM Foglamps, Carbon Fiber trim, Razo pedals &knobs, Fiamm Dual air horn Future Mods: Lighten car, 2nd 10lbs nitrous bottle would be nice too. 2001 G20 P11 AT- TEIN NA, TRM Snipers 17x7 with Potenza RE910 (215/45), Arospeed Dual-outlet Muffler, K&N Drop-in Airfilter, WW Front Lip, Nakamichi MB75 1DIN 6CD Changer/Receiver, FIAMM Dual Air horns, Levoc Pedals, PIAA (H4 Superwhite H3 Ion Crystal, 168 SuperWhite) 2002 WRX MT- TEIN HA's with upper pillow mounts, 1000Miglia HT3 17x7 with sumitomo HTR+ 225/45/17, painted side skirts, Cusco front & rear strut bar, Whiteline rear swaybar, aluminum endlinks, Blitz NUR Catback, HKS seq. BOV, factory front lip, rear valance, Kartboy short shifter and bushings. Future mods: dressup wheels with Potenza S03 225/45/17 tires, TurboXS UTec, maybe an uppipe. by then, it'll be fast enough.fiamm dual air horns. |
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#15
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Quote:
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George Roffe Houston, Texas USA 00 328i 91 SE-R (well modded) 84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction "I fear all we have done is to awaken a sleeping giant and filled him with a great resolve" -- Admiral Yamamoto, December 7, 1941 |
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