|
|
| Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | Air Dried Fresh Beef Dog Food | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
|
|||||||
| Engineering/ Technical Ask technical questions about cars. Do you know how a car engine works? |
![]() |
Show Printable Version |
Subscribe to this Thread
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
my brakes and the mechanic
I brought my car to the mechanic today and they said that my master cylinder's SEAL is starting to go. They recommended replacing it with a brand new master clinder ($199). Since they said that "the seal is starting to go", can't they just replace it with a new seal? Aren't seal made of rubber? He said that the leaks was at where the booster connects to the Master Cycl. Plus they said that my front brake pads need to be replace. The total repair + labor cost is 410 bucks for the new master cycl and 2 pads for the front brakes. Are they ripping me off? I told them to only replace my front brake pads but they refused to do it because I refused to let them replace my master cycl. They said that it is against the law to only fix the pads but not the cycl. They don't want to be liable or something like that. Is that true? I was suspcious because I had brought my car to the Honda Dealer a month ago for a brake inspection and they did not say anything other than to change my back pads and fix some bolts on my brakes. It could be that my master cycl started to have problem after the inspection but I don't feel any change in my brake pedal when I step on it. If there is a leak, shouldn't I change the way my pedal feels when I step on it? I might be wrong about this whole brake thing but I just want to make sure cuz 410 bucks is a lot of money to me.
|
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
A set of front brake pads set me back about $20 at Advanced Auto Parts, and about 45 min's of my time. Take the wheel off, take out the long bolt from the inside of the brake housing and flip the cover up, replace the pads, and put everything back together. I don't know anything about the master seal though. If I were you I would replace the pads, make sure my seatbelt is on, and keep my hand on the e-brake at all times.
__________________
"You never heard of a mind as perverted as mine." -Eminem |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Umm... if i'm gonna do something, i'm going to have full confident in it and make sure it works. If not, I wouldn't do it at all. Hand on E-brake. lol
:sun:
|
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: my brakes and the mechanic
Quote:
__________________
-Original PH Member- Registered in May of 2001 '98 Honda Accord Sedan 2.3L VTEC 4cyl 5-speed Generic Cold Air Intake 205/60/15 Bridgestone Potenza RE950's Save the Oompa-Loompas.....a site I helped create http://www.oompa-loompas.net |
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
it's best you take it to a mechanic you know well or some place that has a reputation of not ripping people off.
when you replace your pads, replace it with semi-metallic, the organic is not recommended. never use your e-brake to brake, because it doesn't grab like the foot pedal does when coming to a complete stop. |
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
Do you know any repuable place in california long beach? I think my HOnda dealer is repuable but that will be my last resort since they charge so much. If not, i can just replace the pads myself. I've been doing research and feeling confident.:smoker2:
|
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I am sure you will encounter some problems along the way especially when you realize you will need a C clamp and pieces of wood to press the pistons back inside the brake calipers. Anyway, you said something about the seal between the booster and master cylinder. Make sure on what you really needs to replace and get it done because once your brake booster is gone, you better hope you have some stronge legs to press that brake padel down. |
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
|
garages will often do work that is not required just to get extra money. get a second opinion on you're master cylinder. and as far as the pads go, they are pretty straightforward to change yourself, you should have no problems doing it.
|
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
|
You don't need pieces of wood to push the piston back in, just the c-clamp. Or better yet one of those nifty tools they sell at doscount or autozone to push it back in. Also, make sure you remove the top on the MC reservoir while pushing the piston back in and make sure the brake fluid doesn't over flow. If it starts too, take some out first.
__________________
|
| |||||||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
![]() |
|
|