4G63 Proper Break In

[SySt3mR00t]

Hey guys, back with more questions .... well im almost done with my stroker kit rebuild. So i thought this would be perfect timing to ask the BIG QUESTION! How should i break in my car. I have brand new clutch new flywheel and brand new stroker motor. What is the best technique to break in the motor? How many miles? When to change oil? ETC.... PLEASE LET ME KNOW. ... THANKS SOO MUCH !

[Thor06]

If you search, you shall find.

IIRC change the oil after 5 miles, 50 miles, and 500 miles and dont boost/take it about 3k rpms for the first 500 miles. I'd personally take it easy longer than that, but thats just me.

[keymaster4225]

If you baby it like that, your rings will never seat properly and you'll never get full compression. You have a window of like 20 miles to seat the rings, and the only way to do that is to beat the piss out of it. Go here: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm for more info.

[steviek]

That site seems to me to be primarily focused on bikes. I know the "logic" carries over into cars as well but it still doesn't sit well with me. Just seems to me that one could argue that running your engine hard EVER is not a good idea so during the break in period it just doesn't seem like a good idea for me. I see their point but Its still unclear whether A (running the engine hard) causes B (sealed rings) or they are just looking for a correlation between them.

[SySt3mR00t]

well ... still havent made up my mind .... im having trouble with reinstalling my msd ignition right now ..car cranks over .. but only fires sparkplugs 2 and 3 .... workin on it still .. but car will be running soon...
hmm.... who else has feedback .. RUN IT HARD on break in ... or EASY on break in ... PERSONAL EXPERIENCES would be appreciated

[Black99GST]

EASY! DEFINITALLY TAKE IT EASY! We put o new motor in a friend of mines 68 SS, its no Mitsubishi, but there where about 6 Life long mechanics working on the car, and all of them said to baby it, and change the oil after 50, then 100... then 500, then 1000... etc... it was a Edelbrock 454 crate... but i would never Push my BRAND New Stroker motor w/o an easy break in...

[Shpyder]

Originally Posted by keymaster4225

If you baby it like that, your rings will never seat properly

When I was breaking in my high compression SBR crate motor, that is exactly what Kevin said when I proposed babying the car. Keep the RPMs decent, I would not go over 3500RPM, but boost 10-15psi, so give it a little throttle now and then.

When breaking in my motor, we used cheap 20-50 non-synthetic Penzoil. You will be changing the oil so regularly during break in , do not worry about the cheapness of the oil. Oil and filter [mitsubishi OEM only] were changed at the following intervals:

100 miles
200 miles
300 miles
400 miles
500 miles
1000 miles
2000 miles
3000 miles
after the first 3000 miles, we reverted back to the regular interval of ever 3000 miles.

And thankyou for posting in the appropriate sub-fourm, what a breath of fresh air!

[blk_srt]

With modern motors there really isn't that big of a break in period. The rings never really "seat" in the block because they, in theory, should never touch bare metal. You can use any oil you want to, the myth that you cant break in a motor with synthetic is just BS. Anyway my :2cent: is do what feels right to you because everyone will have a slightly different approach to it.

[NateS]

You can send the motor to me and I will break it in for you

[E-Klips]

Originally Posted by Black99GST

EASY! DEFINITALLY TAKE IT EASY! We put o new motor in a friend of mines 68 SS, its no Mitsubishi, but there where about 6 Life long mechanics working on the car, and all of them said to baby it, and change the oil after 50, then 100... then 500, then 1000... etc... it was a Edelbrock 454 crate... but i would never Push my BRAND New Stroker motor w/o an easy break in...

That also isnt a turbocharged engine. Naturally aspirated motors dont require such break in processes.

Break the motor it hard. Set boost at whatever you are going to run daily. When you offically start it up, let it idle up to operating temp, change the oil and filter, then go for your vacuum pulls. Bring the car to redline WOT in 2nd or 3rd gear and just let of the gas to let the engine slow the car down. Do this 5-6 times... Your rings should be good to go after that. You can go home and check the compression to make sure it is good, if not, continue to do the same thing. If everything is good, change oil and filter again, then drive on. Change at 100 miles, 500 miles, 1500 miles and 2.5/3k miles (whatever you prefer to change it everytime).

Its not rocket science... Think about it, if you are building a forced induction motor, why would you break it in like a naturally aspirated motor and run it in vacuum the whole time??

[Blackcrow64]

Originally Posted by E-Klips

That also isnt a turbocharged engine. Naturally aspirated motors dont require such break in processes.

Break the motor it hard. Set boost at whatever you are going to run daily. When you offically start it up, let it idle up to operating temp, change the oil and filter, then go for your vacuum pulls. Bring the car to redline WOT in 2nd or 3rd gear and just let of the gas to let the engine slow the car down. Do this 5-6 times... Your rings should be good to go after that. You can go home and check the compression to make sure it is good, if not, continue to do the same thing. If everything is good, change oil and filter again, then drive on. Change at 100 miles, 500 miles, 1500 miles and 2.5/3k miles (whatever you prefer to change it everytime).

Its not rocket science... Think about it, if you are building a forced induction motor, why would you break it in like a naturally aspirated motor and run it in vacuum the whole time??

I agree, I was always told to drive it how its gonna be driven all the time or it'll never get broken in right.

[kjewer1]

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...breaking+motor

[Talon69]

Originally Posted by 95 GSXracer

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...breaking+motor

When i was reading that i noticed the part where you said breaking a new motor in kills the turbo everytime!!!! So whats gonna happen to me when i finally start my freshly rebuilt motor up for the 1st time and run it for a while?

Is it gonna kill my turbo? My turbo only has 3k on it so its still new.

[kjewer1]

Most likely The only turbo I've had survive was the T67, and that ran an AGP issue oil feed line filter. Any 10 micron filter that flows well and has 4an ends will work. ~40-60 bucks well spent IMO! Many poeple run spare 14bs or similar to break in motors. Other's take it to the extreme and weld up old center cartriges to block passages or otherwise run NT for the breakin. I don't recomend that though, since it makes it impossible to break it in "hard."

[Thor06]

Hey, sorry for the thread jack, but I figured a second thread about breakins would be pointless. What kind of a break in would one need to do for new cams and planed/valve job'd head?