99 Starting Problems

[Den3221]

Got a 99 4Runner with 133k miles and a Automatic Trans.

For some reason the past two weeks I have had problems starting her. Battery appears to be alright (I checked the batter charge and radio, lights, etc are all working fine). When I turn ignition, I hear nothing (power comes on - radio, lights, etc). After a few shots at turning the ignition (varies between 1 and 10 times) the engine will all of a sudden 'turn over' and start up fine.

I am guessing it is the starter, but not sure. I don't think I hear the infamous 'clicking' noises. When I first turn the ignition, I hear one slight click noise, then nothing. I was going to bring it to Advanced Auto to check my battery and my starter.

Any ideas/suggestions?

[SidneyCanada]

19 Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso) starter repair sites:

http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/tech/starter/ -
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://char.tuiasi.ro/vw/reality/rog...s/Starter.html
http://yotarepair.com/startercontacts.html
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...rterrepair.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter
http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/...r/haveblue.htm
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical...er_rebuild.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/install.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/image...loded_view.jpg
http://www.colorado4x4.net/tech/star..._contacts.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/starter.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x4/start_bj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=166530
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...312&forumid=10
http://www.toyotanation.com/showthre...312&forumid=10
http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...er/starter.htm
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/boophoenix/starter.html
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/booph...er/image01.jpg


Starter contact kits (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5263 (only two contacts)
Ace Electric # S-5264 (only two contacts)
Metro # 66-82104 (only two contacts) (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side)(also1KZTE-2LT-1KZT)
Toyota # 28226-72080 (8808-9108)
Toyota # 28226-16130 (9108-9308)
Toyota # 28226-55050 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-70040 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed)
Toyota # 28226-72010 (8808-9511)
Toyota # 28226-74070 (9108-9511) (2000 Tundra & others)
Toyota # 28226-22050 (2000 Tundra & others)
Toyota # 28226-66060 (1993-1997 Land Cruiser 2.0 KW starters)

For others besides 22R series:

Toyota # 28226-54220 (motor side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130,LN108,112,85..4FC)
Toyota # 28226-54250 (Diesel Surf 2.4TD, contains a new end cover and gasket)
Toyota # 28226-54320 (battery side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130, LN108,112,85..4FC,3B-1HZ-BJ73-HZJ7#-1KZT-KZJ70)
Toyota # 28226-17030 (battery side) (1H#-HDJ80-HZJ80)
Toyota # 28226-56250 (battery side) (3B-1HZ-1PZ-PZJ7#)

Starter contacts only (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5231
Ace Electric # S-5293 (crescent moon shape)
Ace Electric # S-5295 (crescent moon shape)
Metro # 66-82106 (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Tons more at:
http://www.metroautoinc.com/PDF%20Fi...%20Contact.pdf
Toyota # 28226-70040
Wilson’s Electric # 45-29-652 (maybe it’s 45-29-6521)

Starter brushes:

AC Delco # D762
GP Sorensen # 255048
Standard # JX-117

Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right ones,or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.

If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.

For carbon brushes R&R:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...rnator_brushes
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig...torbrushes.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x...nateur_kzj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=166525
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...270&forumid=10
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...r+brush+holder
http://www.bitwalla.com/cruisers/art...lternator.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/tec...c/altrnatr.htm

For decoding the dashboard lights:

http://www.powerbase-auto.co.uk/alternator_faults.htm
http://members.1stconnect.com/anozir...alternator.htm

Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles.

Toyota alternator Brushes with holder:

Toyota # 27370-35060=$29 CDN
Honda # 31105-PZ1-003
Metro # 39-82003 (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Unknown brand name # F4019-53035

Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated):

AC Delco # E724
AC Delco # E731 (side wire and concave tip)
Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder)
Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip)
Beck Arnley # 178-1376
Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip)
Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=$4.49/pair
Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000
Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000
Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000
Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000
Echlin # E601=$8.16 CDN/pair (UAP/NAPA)
Echlin # ECHE601
Echlin # EC480
Echlin # ECHE480
GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip)
GM # 94123056
GM # 96054118
Honda # 31144-PD1-004=$9.72
Honda # 31144-PD1-0040
Honda # 31144-PD1-0030
Honda # 31150-PR7-A01
Honda # 31150-PTO-003
Hino Industries # 021660-0390
Hino Industries # 021660-0510
Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0
Mazda # 021660-0390
Mazda # 021660-0510
Mazda # KL47-18-W75
Metro # 38-82001(side wire concave tip) (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Mileage Plus # E601SB
Mitsubishi # MD604474
Mitsubishi # 21660-0510
Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip)
NipponDenso # 021660-0390
NipponDenso # 021660-0510
Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip)
Subaru # 021660-0390
Subaru # 021660-0510
Suzuki # 31631-82610
Suzuki # 31656-82611
Suzuki # 021660-0510
Toyota # 27370-42010
Toyota # 27370-75060
Toyota # 27371-63020=$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip)
Toyota # 27371-70300=$5.20 (9105-9511)
Toyota # 27371-76004-71
UAP/NAPA # MPEE601SB
Victory Lap # FAX57=$4.49 CDN/pair (Canadian Tire)
Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=$2.20 each CDN (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks,box of 10 for $3.40 CDN)

Specifications:
Length=15 mm
Width=7 mm
Thickness=5 mm
Lead length=49 mm

These Honda alternators are the same except the pulley must be swapped:

1986-89 Honda Accord (Carb),the EFI can be used but the voltage reg must be swapped
1990-93 Acura Integra

For alternator upgrade:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/100alt/index.html
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/alternator
http://home.earthlink.net/~twopapa/bigalt.htm

Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:[email protected]
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 249 000 KM

[KimMG]

The bushings in the starter maybe worn and causing it to bind. Try hitting it with a hammer and see if that makes a difference.

[4Wheel]

Your problem will be the contacts in the starter.
The rebuild kits are available at the Toyota parts counter.

[Den3221]

Thanks, I am going to try replacing the starter contacts this weekend.

[Brian R.]

Relevant links from SidneyCanada (among others):

http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/...r/haveblue.htm

http://www.startercontacts.com/install.htm
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...312&forumid=10

[4Wheel]

Thanks Brian. Good info

You can do this removing the starter is a bit of work but it just take time.
One bolt comes out from the front and the other one comes out the rear.
Make sure you reconnect teh transmission cooling line support bracket it is also attached by one of the bolts.
Good luck repost on your results.

[Den3221]

Okay, I actually finished the starter today......not as bad as I thought. A few bruised and bloody knuckles to go with it though. So far the truck has started up fine, but only a few more weeks of starting it will tell.

This is what I did for my 1999 V6 4Runner limited:
1. Remove passenger wheel and disconnect battery
2. Remove transmission fluid dipstick
3. Remove transmission check tube (there is a bolt holding it to engine, and then upper tube should slide out of lower housing). I put a piece of tape over the top to prevent anything from dropping down in the tranny pan
4. Remove portion of exhaust pipe (there is a curve piece of the exhaust pipe directly in front of the starter - it has 2 bolts at the catalytic converter side, and 3 bolts at the exhaust manifold to the engine). Make sure and disconnect the Oxygen Sensor before you drop the pipe. The 5 bolts were rusted solid and probably took me almost an hour to remove, BUT it was worth it because all other articles I read told me to remove part of my brakes lines to get the starter out, but removing this portion of the exhaust pipe did the trick.
5. Begin disconnecting the starter. Pop cover to positive terminal and disconnect nut.
6. Remove two bolts that hold starter to engine. Maneuver the starter around gently and disconnect the negative terminal (snaps out)
7. Remove starter from the bottom of the 4runner, where you remove part of the exhaust.
8. From here, see another link for replacing contact brushes and cleaning the starter up. I went ahead and cleaned all my battery terminals and any terminals at the starter.

In general, it wasn't too bad of a job. The worst problem I had was removing part of the exhaust because bolts/nuts were so rusted, but it is better than messing with brake lines.

All nuts/bolts are either 10, 12, or 14 mm. You will need long extensions (say 12 inches) and of course a socket wrench and open ended wrenches of sizes listed previously. I tried to wear work gloves most of the time, but still got some busted knuckles anyway. Hope this helps someone else.

[Brian R.]

Good job. Thanks for the procedure. I'm sure it will help someone. I'll put it in the FAQ thread.