Project K1500

[TaNK_Em]

Well, after a lot of thinking I have decided I want to keep my truck for now but fix it up. There’s a lot of stuff that needs to be done and I've decided to do this on here for help. First off the basic information of the truck is it’s a 1993 K1500 ext cab. The engine is A V8 350 5.7 L TBI. It was built in Canada. Well here are the pictures and a list of mostly what needs to get done.

• All four shocks
• Brakes need repair (Most likely just new pads)
• Rear Differential Fluid Check
• New air filter assembly
• Bed rails need covered
• Both rocker panels fixed
• Water Pressure sensor replaced
• Engine knock fixed
• Off road lights wired
• Exhaust System
• New tow hooks
• Front bumper fixed and alignment
• Driver side rear dent fixed and other dents removed
• Bed liner
• New alternator wired

As I go along and fix stuff I will update this list and hope you guys will be able to help me with some of the questions I have.

- Kevin


Looks like I need a new bumper

This is the biggest dent

Needs repair

New air filter assembly need to fix the engine

The bumpers out of line and the tow hooks bent need to wire the fog lights

The only nice thing about the truck still needs some stuff done.

I need to replace everything from the cat back plan on putting a flowmaster 40 with a single out.

Needs repair

Not so bad

Also not bad

[TaNK_Em]

My first question involves wiring the fog lights; the wiring is pretty complicated well at least KC makes it that way. As far as the power source goes should I just go straight from the battery? Also if I’m going to be putting a wire on the battery should I get some kind of O ring that will go on the terminal screw or just wrap the wire behind the nut? Anything else I need to do besides that and put an inline fuse on the whole set up.

- Kevin

[broughy84]

Whenever I add anything to a vehicle that I want to be on only when the key is, I wire it straight to the battery for the main powersource then add a relay and have the power switch comming from the ignition switch. This way you have almost 0 amp pull on your ignition component wiring. All the draw is off the battery. As for whether you should put a terminal on it, I always use a large ring terminal on the end of the wire. Nothing special just a crimp on terminal.......if your good at soldering you can solder the terminal to the wire to make it more permenent; however it is not necessary.

This may help you out a little.

[TaNK_Em]

Ok here is the wiring diagram, matt I don’t know what you mean with the whole ignition switch thing what does this do, Is it so the switch wont drain the battery or? Also where should I put inline fuses on the wire coming from the lights to the switch the power line and the ground all of them or what? And I’m not very good as far as electrical but I’m not quite sure what a relay is I was talking to my dad about it and he says its something that controls how much power is going threw or something.

- Kevin

[TaNK_Em]

Well I’m here at school right now my truck up on the racks in the automotive bay. We changed the fluid out on my front differential and changed both outer tie rods. The tie rods were pretty rusted on there and took some effort to get them out. We put a new Goodyear gatorback belt on there and we weren’t able to do the oil change because we used the only pan we have for the differential fluid. Hopefully I can get in there and do the oil change and grease all the main points underneath. Some other good news is my dad’s friend at work is giving me a 140 AMP alternator which will work great with my hilites that are going on.

- Kevin

Done
• Front Differential Fluid Drained and Filled
• Tire rotation
• Outer tie rods
• Drive belt

[horse482]

Originally Posted by TaNK_Em

Well I’m here at school right now my truck up on the racks in the automotive bay. We changed the fluid out on my front differential and changed both outer tie rods. The tie rods were pretty rusted on there and took some effort to get them out. We put a new Goodyear gatorback belt on there and we weren’t able to do the oil change because we used the only pan we have for the differential fluid. Hopefully I can get in there and do the oil change and grease all the main points underneath. Some other good news is my dad’s friend at work is giving me a 140 AMP alternator which will work great with my hilites that are going on.

- Kevin

Done
• Front Differential Fluid Drained and Filled
• Tire rotation
• Outer tie rods
• Drive belt

First off the 140a alternator may not work if the housing is larger than what came factory, you may need to replace the mounting bracket to get it to fit, and the belt you just put on may not work either.

• All four shocks--I would recomend the KYB Mono-Max, Excelent shocks.
• Brakes need repair (Most likely just new pads)--Use a quality pad and turn the rotors if they are still in spec.
• New air filter assembly--AEM Brute Force
• New bumper--depends on how much money you want to spend.
• Bed rails need covered--Bed caps or spray in liner.
• Both rocker panels fixed--Sorry not a body man.
• Water Pressure sensor replaced--Not sure what you mean by this.
• Engine knock fixed--Could be the knock sensor is bad, if not then check your timing, if that is ok you may be doing some engine work.
• Off road lights wired--You can buy a wiring kit that has everything that you need, makes the job very easy.
• Exhaust System--Don't buy cheep components.
• Bumper
• New tow hook
• Front bumper alignment
• Driver side rear dent fixed and other dents removed
• Oil change and grease

[jveik]

if you're painting it yourself, prepare yourself for an ass-load of sanding lol... im in that process right now on my 73 chevy truck and its a pain in the ass to have to wetsand guidecoats all day long

[TaNK_Em]

Well things kind of went south, on my way home from school with the new outer tie rods on I’ve noticed how horribly out of line it is. It appears the “tow” is way off so ill have to bring it in for auto tomorrow and get that straightened out. As far as the 140 amp alternator yes I know this is a concern we think it will mount up in the original brackets and my tensioner a little off so it should fit. There is some kind of connecter change we need to make tough. As far as some of the stuff listed horse is a little out of my price range. The KYB Mono-Max is a pretty expensive shock from what I’ve seen I’m looking at monoroes that go under 30 dollars a piece. As far as the breaks go I don’t know much about breaks so I’m just going to have someone in the brakes and suspension class due it thanks ill mention the rotors being turned. The Brute force also out of my price range. The bumper I plan on getting at a junkyard. The engines main bearings are shot. I have wiring harnesses it’s just complicated for me. And for the exhaust I plan on either putting a flowmaster 40 or 70. And jviek I’m not really sure about that yet. So far thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate this. Anyone on the whole wiring thing diagrams above.

Thanks,

- Kevin

[jveik]

if you are doing your project in a high school or tech college shop class type of setting, like it seems to be described above, i bet you could rebuild that engine pretty cheap. You can get kits at autozone type of stores that are under 500 bucks to rebuild. I dunno about cylinder honing and all that though... sure to drive the costs up a little. In many cases, its easier to buy a brand new engine from GM. They sell brand new 350's, albeit the older 2 piece rear main seal style, for 1350 on jegs.com. or for economy, there are remanufactured 350s you can get thru autozone or orieleys or something and they are as little as 8 or 9 hundred for the crappier ones.

[TaNK_Em]

Yeah I’m doing this in high school auto. My shop teacher and I were looking into the prices and I have found rebuild kits anywhere from 500-800 dollars. Right now my concern isn’t really the engine because I’m pretty sure it has plenty of life left in it so it will be fixed later on down the line. Right now its downstairs getting alignment after noticing how bad the toe was on it yesterday on my way to work.

- Kevin

[broughy84]

You have it right if you are going to run it without a relay.... Apearently these are not a high amp draw bulbs. Put the fuse between the battery and the switch and wire everything else up you should have no problems.

[TaNK_Em]

Matt, I’ve been talking to the guys from KC and they said a relay for every 2 lights and I have 6 lights so 3 relays. Right now I’m waiting for a 140 amp alternator that I’m getting for free before I wire any of the roof HiLites. These are really high amp draw bulbs with all of the aux lighting it will be 42.49 amps. So right now I’m planning on just doing the fog lights and doing the rest later down the line. Well they aligned my truck it still feels off ill have to talk to my shop teacher next week about it. Below are some pictures of my new lights. My next step is changing my oil maybe tonight or in the morning. Along with ordering some new exhaust parts witch brings up my next question should I go with a flowmaster 40 or 70 right now I’m thinking the 70 series.

- Kevin

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[IMG][/IMG]

[broughy84]

40's will give you a nice low grumble at idle and it will come alive when you romp on it. If you don't want something that loud I would go with 70's. However, If you do not have inspections You may like it w/o mufflers. My 88 has straights all the way back, no cat, no mufflers. Nice low tone at idle and a nice crackle at about 2500 rpm. Now when talking about exhaust parts, don't buy cheap parts. If you buy cheap, you will buy them again in 2 years. Also, DO NOT get chrome flat tips. They will rust out real fast. Get STAINLESS STEEL. Chrome does not hold up at all.

[TaNK_Em]

No inspections here, I was just listening to some audio I like the tone of the 70s but my body still says get a 40. I don’t know wouldn’t it be super loud with no cat and no muffler? My dad was bitching went I mentioned cutting the cat off before saying it will bring up check engine codes for not reading the cat. At this point I’m going to get the pipe from the cat to the muffler at Murray’s about 25 dollars and I already have a tailpipe. I plan on keeping it all stock but the muffler. Having duels would be nice but I don’t want to mess with it. So the real problem is just deciding whether or not to get a 40 or the 70.

- Kevin

[horse482]

Originally Posted by TaNK_Em

Well things kind of went south, on my way home from school with the new outer tie rods on I’ve noticed how horribly out of line it is. It appears the “tow” is way off so ill have to bring it in for auto tomorrow and get that straightened out. As far as the 140 amp alternator yes I know this is a concern we think it will mount up in the original brackets and my tensioner a little off so it should fit. There is some kind of connecter change we need to make tough. As far as some of the stuff listed horse is a little out of my price range. The KYB Mono-Max is a pretty expensive shock from what I’ve seen I’m looking at monoroes that go under 30 dollars a piece. As far as the breaks go I don’t know much about breaks so I’m just going to have someone in the brakes and suspension class due it thanks ill mention the rotors being turned. The Brute force also out of my price range. The bumper I plan on getting at a junkyard. The engines main bearings are shot. I have wiring harnesses it’s just complicated for me. And for the exhaust I plan on either putting a flowmaster 40 or 70. And jviek I’m not really sure about that yet. So far thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate this. Anyone on the whole wiring thing diagrams above.

Thanks,

- Kevin

I will tell you right up front that if you by those cheep Monroe shocks you will hate them. If you get one years use out of them you will be lucky. If you insist on buying a less expensive shock then at least go with the KYB GR2. They will give you a similar ride of the Sensatrack but the warranty is way better, not that you are going to need it on the kyb's. I am running flow master 40 muffler and it give a good sound, but on the freeway there is a bit of resinence.