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Old 04-22-2006, 10:19 PM
Johny2x4 Johny2x4 is offline
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200 watt amp and a 10" subwoofer

yeah so im installing an amp and a subwoofer into my car, and im not buying a new deck, so i was going to wire it to the stock cd deck. The only problem is that i cant get the dash off to mess with the deck. i looked but couldnt find anywhere to take it off. I would greatly appreciate it if anyone helped.
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Old 05-12-2006, 12:05 AM
workinoutsparky workinoutsparky is offline
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Cool Re: 200 watt amp and a 10" subwoofer

I think there s a bolt by the cigarette ash tray other than that, I believe theres only clips holding that trim in
then the radio is being held by some bolts it think there 7/16 th
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Old 07-27-2006, 06:14 PM
Tubby3120 Tubby3120 is offline
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Exclamation Re: 200 watt amp and a 10" subwoofer

I might be a little late on this but maybe it will help someone else out on the subject ... If your not replacing the head unit there is no need to pull out the deck. There's only 2 reasons why you need to get to the back of the deck to install an amp, they are 1. Connecting the preamp audio wire and, 2. connecting the remote wire(tells the amp to turn on). All amps need an input, with an after market deck you would normally be connecting the amp to the preamp out's on the back of the deck and then to the inputs on the amp. A factory chrystler deck (at least in a 99 sebring with infinity sound) does not have pre amp outs and therefore the amp cannot be connected via the normal way of doing these things. Some of us need that extra bass though so heres how you do it, it's actually easier than pulling the deck out of the dash.

Pretty much the only difference in the way you hook up the amp is instead of hooking to preamp's on the back of the deck you need to go buy a "line level converter". It's a little box that takes input as a standard speaker wire and converts it to the plugs/guage you need to connect to the inputs on your amp. I did this off the rear speakers, running standard 12g wire from the speakers to the line level converter from both left and right speakers (so I could bridge a single woofer). Then connected the converter to the amp and boom happened. If you shop around you can find a line level converter for under $10.

As far as the remote wire is concerned...I'm not a big fan of splicing any wires I don't have too, especially when it comes to wires that are not easily replaced. So instead of getting to the back of the deck and chopping the wire in the main harness that your supposed to splice into for the rmt connection just replace the radio fuse in the pannel on the left side of the dash (facing the drivers door) with a Y-connecter and run a wire from that to the amp, and bingo you have an amp that will turn on. This may have repercussions but if there are I don't know about them, I've done it this way twice, in 2 different cars and never had a problem, at least that I could attribute to the linking of the amp to the fuse box .
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