1994 Camry V6 LE Engine Sputter/Front end Noise

[TimLCam1994]

Hi i was wondering if anyone could tell me what is wrong with my camry...
Problem 1: Every morning the car engine would sputter and clear up after a few seconds. After a few days, the sputtering stopped and completely went away. Recently, the sputtering has gotten worse and has continued after 5-10 minutes of driving time after the car has been allowed to heat up in idle for a few minutes as well. It seems like something is clogging up the fuel line or something of the sort at night only, because i can turn off my car and go to work for 6 hours and come back to the car without engine sputter. What would this problem be? (sputtering sounds like a paintball gun shooting)- there is also a low crinkling sound like something trying to clear up under the hood...

Problem 2: My car has a front end pitching noise when i am turning at a regular speed, as well as making noise when the car is driving straight now. It is a high pitched rotation sound, and it is not the engine because i can release the pedal and it will still make the noise.

Other Questions unrelated to the problems:
I changed the oil and replaced the fuel filter, but the engine sputter still occured.
Also, how could i improve the lifespan of this camry? I need it to last me through college and hopefully even more, there is no way that i can afford another car right now, so these two problems are seriously worrying me.
Any tune up tips, maintainence help, and improvements to gas mileage or anything would be very helpful.. Thanks for taking the time to read this!

[RIP]

Accurately diagnosing problems by someone describing noises, especially over the internet, is damned near impossible but, here we go.
Problem 1: Have you seen the "MIL" light come on? It indicates the cars diagnostic system has detected a fault. Go to Autozone or the like and they can connect a scanner to read any codes that may have been set. It's free. Call first to make sure they can read a 94 Camry. Short of that, you can read the codes in your driveway. Read this: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013ee16.jsp I'm betting it will point to the Inlet Airflow Meter valve, Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve, Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor or an O2 sensor. If this is all Greek I would find someone familiar with car maintenance and have them go over the subjects on the above link with you. Just about every system is covered to some extent. Better yet buy a Haynes or Chiltons maintenance manual for your car ($15-20). Your library probably has a copy.

Problem 2: Rotating noises are created by worn disc brake pads, wheel bearings, constant velocity (CV) joints, or drive belts. Which one?
> Brakes? Worn disc brake pads will make a squeal or chirping noise and if let go long enough, a metal on metal grinding noise. The previous is created by small tabs on the pads called "indicators" rubbing on the disc letting you know it's time to replace the pads. The squeal or chirp will get more intense as you apply the brakes. A metal on metal grinding noise that again gets more intense with brake pressure, indicates the brake pad material has worn away and the metal backer is grinding on the disc brake rotor. Ugly!
> Wheel bearings? Worn bearings make a grinding noise that usually gets more intense in turns. The key indicator is the noise would normally come from one side of the car. If you can spin the wheel with it off the ground sometimes you can duplicate the noise. If they are worn bad enough you can detect excessive play by grabbing the tire fore and aft and wiggling it.
> CV joints? Both the left axle and the right axle have both an inner and an outer CV joint. They allow the axles to flex with suspension movement. When the outer cv joints are bad they make a clicking / clunk noise in turns. Usually you hear the noise from one side of the car. Take your car to an empty parking lot and roll the windows down. Make slow turns in both directions. If you hear the clicking noise when turning left, the right outer CV joint is bad. Noise turning right, the left outer joint is bad. Why the opposite joint? Left turns shift the weight of the car to the right side stressing the right joint. Bad inner CV joints will make a clunk noise when accelerating or decelerating.
> Drive belts? Worn or loose belts create a squealing noise. A loose power steering belt can cause hard steering. Look for cracks and have them checked with a belt tension gauge.

Improve the lifespan? These are probably the 4 at the top of the list:
The #1 thing you should be doing is regularly checking and topping off all the fluids ie, oil, coolant, brake, transmission, power steering, and the battery water level. Your drivers manual will tell you how. I do it every weekend. Make it a habit.
> I'm betting your timing belt hasn't been changed in a while. They need to be replaced every 80,000 miles or so. If your timing belt breaks the car will not run. Costs around $300 to have it changed.
> Change the engine oil and filter every 3-5,000 miles.
> Change the transmission and differential fluid every 20,000 miles or every other year.

Your best bet would be to take your car to a non-dealer auto shop and have them look at it. Family run non-chain shops seem to work out the best. They might charge you for one hours time or $60-100 but, you'll have an idea of what needs to be done. Then it's decision time.

[TimLCam1994]

thanks for the quick reply to my post, it was very informative!
the engine check light comes on if thats the MIL light, im not sure...
I replaced both of the O2 Sensors in front of the catalytic converter, so far the sputter has not returned but i only installed them yesterday, and when i disconnected the negative battery terminal last time, it resulted in the same thing. Hopefully this works.

the timing belt was replaced about 5k miles ago
oil changed 800 miles ago
i check all the fluids...
Also, i was wondering if NGK spark plugs really are much better than the regular,
Any tips on increasing miles to the gallon? I currently get a steady 23-24 MPG on my car, but i am seeking to improve upon that.

[RIP]

Yup, it's a "Check Engine" light. A MIL light pertains to some Dodge Caravans.

Great news. Cross your fingers. If the light should happen to come back use the Autozone link and read the fault codes. The "data link connectors" mentioned are at the drivers left knee at the bottom of the dash and under the hood on the left side. It's got a black cover on it labeled DIAGNOSTIC. The contacts are labeled on the underside of the cover.

NKG plugs better? I've always used Champion or Autolite. Can't say.

Better mpg? 24 seems about right for that engine. My daughter has a 94 with the 2.2 ltr 4 cyl at San Diego State U and she's getting 26-27 highway and 18-20 city. Keep the tires at 30-35 psi, verify the timing is set correctly, and most importantly keep your foot out of it.

[TimLCam1994]

Hm.. well, the engine check light came back on... it seems to work fine if i disconnect the negative battery terminal and reset the entire system... Does this narrow down the problem area?

I don't have the diagnostic tool to check which area has the problem, but i am getting that checked out after i leave the car with the mechanic... here come the bills!
thanks again for your help, its much appreciated!
[UPDATE]
Well, it apparently had a fuel injector corroded.. (i sent cleaner through there a million times i guess it was too late =( ) but that was only 60 bucks from the mechanic for the diagnostic test... then my stupid driveaxle boot tore... that was 175 to the mechanic..
oh well at least it runs now haha

darn engine check light is back on, the diagnostic test says that the EGR has too much flow through it or something of the sort...?