Looking for Some Advice regarding my car

[Psychotica]

I have a 1997 ford escort LX it was my mothers car and I received it when she passed away. It was due for a smog check for renewal so even though they could transfer it they wont register it without the smog certificate. It will not pass smog. The check engine light is on and has been on since I got the car. I finally got the money to take it in for diagnosis and here is what I was told.

The car failed several sensor tests the following are the error codes.

P1744 - TCC stuck ( this is the one the mechanic says poses the biggest expense to fix ) he says the transmission will have to be replaced, This is his opinion as someone who does not work on transmissions but only does emissions related repairs.

p1443 and p1000 are the other error codes.

It also says Applied power at brown wire to TCC solenoid with car in gear, does not stall engine. Recommend new transmission.

So my questions, first does this diagnosis seem to indicate that I need a new transmission? Is there any way to fix it without replacing it entirely.

Second, is it worth it to replace the transmission ( which I am told will run close to 2 thousand dollars ) or would I be better off retiring the car through calif retirement program and trying to get a new car? I do not have much money as I am a student and currently unemployed, so buying a car or repairing this one both pose a financial hardship for me and I am trying to determine the best option for my situation.

Thank you for any advice you can offer.

Psy

[Anavel]

You wouldn't need to replace the transmission. You'd either replace the TCC solenoid or the TC, though I'm not 100% positive on this since I'm not familar with 97 year model.

[Davescort97]

The code P1744 is California only transmission slippage detected. The torque converter clutch (TCC) would be one way it would do this. This would also occur if the transmission fluid was low. Check that. Anavel is right in saying the TCC solenoid would only have to be changed or the torque converter clutch itself. This is a far cry from getting the transmission replaced. You're looking at a $500 repair. Not a $2000 repair.

The code P1000 is OBD11 Drive cycle is not complete. This means the check of all systems was not completed since last memory clear. Perform OBD11 Drive Cycle. The last time the brain box for the engine was checked the things needed to do it weren't followed all the way through. This is a low dollar fix. Maybe $50 or so.

The code P1443 is Evaporative emissions control valve is not working. This is
a valve that opens and closes to control gasoline vapors from the tank. This allows excess vapors to be reburned rather than polluting the environment. This is probably a very low dollar function to be done. Probably in the $75 to
$100 range.

[Psychotica]

Wow, Thank you so much for the information. I guess I was given bad information from the smog shop and will seek advice from a transmission specialist. I really appreciate the advice. Oh and I feel horrible that I dont know this but is it possible for me to check the tranny fluid or do I need to go to a shop to do this?

[Davescort97]

Originally Posted by Psychotica

Wow, Thank you so much for the information. I guess I was given bad information from the smog shop and will seek advice from a transmission specialist. I really appreciate the advice. Oh and I feel horrible that I dont know this but is it possible for me to check the tranny fluid or do I need to go to a shop to do this?

You can do this. The dipstick for the transmission is just to the left of the master brake cylinder. It is below and a little to the left. The master cylinder is a plastic resevoir with a black lid and a metal line running out of it. It is located about a foot behind the battery on the firewall.
There are 2 sets of notches on the dipstick. The ones on the top are for checking the fluid when it is warm and the ones on the bottom are for checking when it is cold. If the car has been driven at least 20 miles the fluid is considered warm.

Park on a level surface, start the engine and move the drive selector through all of the ranges beginning and ending with park. With the engine still idling, pull the dipstick, wipe it off and stick it back in all the way in the tube withdraw it again and note the fluid level.

Add Mercon Automatic transmission fluid if it is low. It takes about 1 pint to go from the bottom to the top of either the hot or cold notches. You add fluid with a funnel into the dipstick tube until the level is between the two notches. Always use the above procedure before you check the level. All the best. Dave

[Davescort97]

I forgot. Your trouble could be a blown fuse or fuses. The fuse that controls the electrical part of your automatic transmission (turns off the torque converter clutch when the brake is depressed). It is to the left side of the brake pedal below the dash and above the kick panel.It is pulled straight out. If the filament between the prongs imbedded in the plastic is melted it is bad. There is a fuse puller along with some extra fuses inside the cover of the fuse box. It is a 3x3 inch box with the diagram of where the fuses are on the outside. The fuse is marked "stop" on it's position.

There also is another fuse that might keep your transmission converter clutch
(TCC) from locking up. It is a 15 ampere fuse in the engine compartment . It is next to the battery and is a 4 X 5 inch black box.. Pry the top cover of the box off to get to the fuse. It has 2 prongs and the center wire inside will be melted if the fuse is bad. It is marked engine in it's position.

[Psychotica]

Thank you for the info on how to check the fluids, question regarding the fuses though, Wouldnt they have noticed this at the shop? They removed the dash panel to replace the check engine lightbulb. Wouldnt they have checked for a blown fuse seeing the error codes they recieved? This was a repair done via the Cap program ( where they pay for some smog repairs if you cannot afford them in calif ). Should I call the shop back and ask them if they checked these things or should I just get a second opinion. I am not confident I can check these things myself.

[Davescort97]

Originally Posted by Psychotica

Thank you for the info on how to check the fluids, question regarding the fuses though, Wouldnt they have noticed this at the shop? They removed the dash panel to replace the check engine lightbulb. Wouldnt they have checked for a blown fuse seeing the error codes they recieved? This was a repair done via the Cap program ( where they pay for some smog repairs if you cannot afford them in calif ). Should I call the shop back and ask them if they checked these things or should I just get a second opinion. I am not confident I can check these things myself.

Well the fuses that i mentioned control a lot of other things beside the
torque converter clutch. If nothing else is going on they probably are all right. Yes, they would have checked the fuses first. Sometimes, though, the easiest things to fix a problem aren't looked into. All the best, Dave.