|
| Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | Quality Dog Food | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
|
| Latest | 0 Rplys |
|
|||||||
![]() |
Show Printable Version | Email this Page |
Subscribe to this Thread
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
|
#1 | |
|
AF Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
hello...im new to these forums and am curious about the hybrid conversions ppl do to their hondas. I have a 94 Civic Coupe ex and it has around 68k on it...Now that ive been working for 2 years, I was thinking about getting another car and using this coupe as toy, but still able to be daily driven.
My question is what kind of engine swaps would be the best for generating high normally aspirated hp. I hear the b18c is the most popular also sorta expensive. Id like to keep this as cheap as possible....And keep in mind I would like this car to be daily driven still...so no removal of the A/C (Houston..here) and street legal. I may add a SC if it makes a huge difference at a later date, but id rather have a n/a set up first. Also does the engine with VTEC vs non VTEC matter? whats the pluses and minuses? Any help for a newb would be appreciated. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 | |
|
R.I.P. DAD 3/25/11
![]() |
First off welcome to AF!!
In answer to your questions. Yes, that engine (B18c) and a few others from the Teg etc. are some of the possible candidates for a swap. I've seen people pay an average of more than 1500 dollars. I use this number only as a reference point and not meaning to indicate that you will find one that cheap. To be honest, you'd be in the neighborhood of $2000. Also have to factor in if you are doing the work yourself or having it done professionally. I prefer the latter suggestion. What it will boil down to as far as price is concerned is availability. You have to shop around and get the best price you can find. You might want to check www.groupbuycenter.com for group buys for engines. The more people in a group buy, the cheaper. As for the difference in VTEC/NonVTEC. There is a very big difference. The hp is significant enough for you to notice. Trust me when I say, look for a DOHC VTEC. You won't be sorry.
__________________
Why do banks charge you a "non-sufficient funds fee" on money they already know you don't have?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 | |
|
AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
thanks for the welcome...
and thanks for the link...i'll be checking it out..as for installation, yes i would be doing it professionally, i would definitely like to learn as the professional is doing it, but id prolly screw it up on my own. in any case, so youd advise the b18c then? wahts the diff between ppl choosing the b18c vs b16a2? or ive read ppl say im using the b16a with the type R head...whats that do? again thanks.. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | |
|
R.I.P. DAD 3/25/11
![]() |
Trying to find the page which I had that showed all the specs of many engines and the differences. It's basically a hybrid page that shows the most popular swaps and why. I can't seem to remember which one though, I have so many. As soon as I find it, I will give it to you.
__________________
Why do banks charge you a "non-sufficient funds fee" on money they already know you don't have?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
Missing in action
![]() |
A cheaper option that I think will get you more power for a naturally aspirated car is going for am LS/VTEC. This is a B18B (or B18A) bottom end with a VTEC head, for which your cheapest option is probably a JDM B16A from a Civic SiR1. These are all the rage among the hybrids now. If you have more money and want to get crazy, I'd say build the same thing, but use a B20 block from a Honda CR-V with a B17A crankshaft (which was the engine used in the 1992 to 1993 Integra GS-R), and use a B18C1 head (the B16A head can move 267 ft^3 of air per minute, versus 288 ft^3 for the B18C1 head). Again, this option is more expensive. You'd probably pay say about $1,400 just for the block and crank (no rods pistons included!) here, and perhaps another $800 for the head. You can get a B18A/B bottom end much cheaper, say $400 or less.
Consider this: I picked up a B16A "spare" bottom end this weekend for $150, and it's mint. Piston domes have not a scratch on them, and the cylinder bores are also very clean. You may pay more for a B18A/B block these days just because more hybrid builders are looking for them, but a B16A bottom end is actually a better piece of equipment (better oil squirters, better rod/piston materials, superior rod/stroke geometry). |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 | |
|
AF Enthusiast
![]() |
check this site out.
__________________
Racing Rice Cars: '97 Civic EX, '02 Explorer Eddie Bauer, '99 Isuzu Amigo 4x4 Bikes: '05 Suzuki DL650 Vstrom, '05 Yamaha Raptor 660R |
|
|
|
|
|
![]() |
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
![]() |
|
|