Oil lines? $400??

[zachzchw]

I had the truck in to Midas today, to get some things checked out.
They told me my oil leak came from some sort of oil lines........
They also said that a replacement set can only be obtained through a dealer, and they are around $400 for the set.
Also was told it is a very common problem.....
Ive never heard of it before, anyone care to shed some light on the subject?

[SComp23]

Yeah the set is like 90 bucks or something. The ones that came stock only had 2 crimps and are prone to leaks, the new ones are triple crimped. Replace them yourself, that is a rip-off

[OverBoardProject]

There's a big difference between $90 and $400

[zachzchw]

Originally Posted by SComp23

Yeah the set is like 90 bucks or something. The ones that came stock only had 2 crimps and are prone to leaks, the new ones are triple crimped. Replace them yourself, that is a rip-off

Where can I get them? Is it only from a dealer?
Also, what is the proper name, like if I was to search the internet for them?

thanks.

[muddog321]

oil cooler lines. 4wd has 2 sets - 1 from the block (where the filter adapter is) under the engine (which has to be raised one inch to put them in on drivers side) to under the radiator to the oil filter. Then 2nd set goes from the oil filter to the radiator (where the oil is cooled).
For a 2wd there is only 1 line and its easy and no need to jack up the engine.
Dorman is the aftermarket brand and carried by the stores that supply the local auto repair (Advance or AutoZone do not carry unless they recently added them).

[redwheeler]

try www.rockauto.com thats where i got mine i think they were 20 for one set and 30 for the other set

[zachzchw]

How much should it be to get them installed?
I dont have the equipment to raise the engine.

[JoshBarber]

Originally Posted by zachzchw

How much should it be to get them installed?
I dont have the equipment to raise the engine.

bro, you have the "equipment" to raise the engine. even if you don't have a simple floor jack...which I'd assume everyone should, you have your tire jack in the Blazer.

But Id go buy a halfway decent floor jack. You'll use it plenty unless you can afford $400 bills for replacing $40 lines.

i did a post recently on the job. Click here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ght=oil+cooler

If you do have money to spend on this sort of stuff, and arent mechanically inclined.......

I'd still call the shop and tell them to buy the lines for $40 through AutoZone...or offer to bring them the lines to do it. The job itself might take you an hour if its the first time you've done it, and thats working with the truck on ramps. The lines from the filter to the cooler are a breeze. The line from the filter to the engine will take the majority of the time. Just because you need extensions to get to the bolt, and need to slightly raise the engine. Shouldnt take an experienced shop, with access to a lift, more than 30minutes unless something is stuck or breaks. Dealer around here charges $90/hr for labor. Non-dealer shops are significantly less usually. So you do the math on cost. $40 (parts) + $?(1hr labor) = ???

Or, buy a jack that you'll use regularly for maintenance, and $40 for parts....and maybe an hour of your time to do the job. Sup to you.

[zachzchw]

Originally Posted by JoshBarber

bro, you have the "equipment" to raise the engine. even if you don't have a simple floor jack...which I'd assume everyone should, you have your tire jack in the Blazer.

But Id go buy a halfway decent floor jack. You'll use it plenty unless you can afford $400 bills for replacing $40 lines.

i did a post recently on the job. Click here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ght=oil+cooler

If you do have money to spend on this sort of stuff, and arent mechanically inclined.......

I'd still call the shop and tell them to buy the lines for $40 through AutoZone...or offer to bring them the lines to do it. The job itself might take you an hour if its the first time you've done it, and thats working with the truck on ramps. Shouldnt take an experienced shop, with access to a lift, more than 30minutes unless something is stuck or breaks. Dealer around here charges $90/hr for labor. Non-dealer shops are significantly less usually. So you do the math on cost. $40 (parts) + $?(1hr labor) = ???

Or, buy a jack that you'll use regularly for maintenance, and $40 for parts....and maybe an hour of your time to do the job. Sup to you.

Didnt know that all I would need is a jack.
Thanks for the advice, looks like Ill be going to autozone in the near future.

[JoshBarber]

Originally Posted by zachzchw

Didnt know that all I would need is a jack.
Thanks for the advice, looks like Ill be going to autozone in the near future.

no problem.

its a real common issue. most of the time they just slowly weap oil. not major leaking. but it still makes a mess.

The one from the filter to the cooler is just the one bolt at the filter, and the lines are a quick disconnect on the oil cooler. Try to remember how they're routed through other lines etc. for when you put the new ones in.

Like I said, most difficult part of the job was the rear connection under the engine (assuming yours is 4whl drive).
I think you'll just need a small open end (forget the size), 12'' extension, swivel, socket (I forget the bolt size, but its the same as the one securing them to the filter block), and some long sleeves. You have to do some manuevering to get your wratchet in under the engine, and I always end up with mangled arms cuz I cant make myself quit till its done!

Helpful hints:

-work from the front of the engine looking back. its near impossible to remove that bolt from UNDERNEATH looking up at it. Trust me....I tried.

-place socket at the end of the entension and swivel on the bolt by hand, BEFORE popping the wratchet on. It's much easier to guide the swiveled socket onto the bolt-head by hand then it is holding the wratchet.

-the small open end is for the small bolt that holds the line bracket to the engine. This sits about halfway from the filter mount, to the engine mount (mid-line) and just keeps the lines from flopping around while driving. You can't remove the lines until this braket is removed.

-Only lift the engine a small amount (just enough to manuever the line out) overlifting could tear it from the engine mounts.

-Make sure the sealing surfaces are all clean and free of oil/dirt/etc. before installing new lines.

-Put the bolt inside the mounting block and guide the lines back to the engine port again with just the extension and swivel.

-Be as delicate as possible when putting the new lines in, because the metal/rubber gasket (shaped like an "8") can fall off in the process...and it won't seal without it. You DONT want to have to do the job twice because this gasket fell off without you noticing it.

You'll have to check for a torque on these bolts...I don't recall what it is.
After your done...the best part is degreasing under your engine, and spraying it with a power washer. Its so nice not having everything underneath wet and oil coated.

[XPC2004]

Originally Posted by zachzchw

I had the truck in to Midas today,...

yeah, there's the first problem.

The oil lines cost about $90cdn - $120(ish) depending on where you are.
I replaced mine, it was $218 in total from a local garage. Midas is a rip off.
$85 an hour. Charge you book time, there's you're $400

Mine's a 95 4x4 4dr.

~xpc...

[solarflareq]

I just had new lines made at the local oilfield supply shop and they are a great deal better quality lines for 40$ cad"only did the 2 from engine pan to filter". the fittings are really easy to work with and if you take it to a guy that knows what hes doing you can get this done np and not pay the retail high end prices.. and also your getting pressed on fittings which will probly last a lifetime just running oil.

[dmbrisket 51]

Originally Posted by zachzchw

Didnt know that all I would need is a jack.
Thanks for the advice, looks like Ill be going to autozone in the near future.

nooooooooooooooooooooooooo! stay away from that AZ SH*T pay the extra coin now and do it right, get the lines from the dealer, more money, but youll do the job a less number of times

[old_master]

With certain parts you are better off going to the dealer and getting the OE part. The oil lines however, are not one of those parts. The Dorman replacement is a far superior part. Spend less money for a better quality part, do the job one time. Get the lines from the dealer and they'll leak just like the ones you have now and you WILL be doing it again...guaranteed. As mentioned earlier in this post, "it's a common problem", only with the OE part.

[dmbrisket 51]

two sides to each story, you say after market is supperior quality i say dealer is, the engeneers are constently upgrading things, go with the engeneers that built the car, not someone with no affiliation, thats just my theory