Here's the setup I'm going with... What's missing?

[Blackcrow64]

Ok, here is the list I have been working on of everything performance wise that I will be doing to the Talon during this time... At least, this is the setup I WANNA do. lol One thing I am unsure about is the head. Do I need different springs and retainers? Bigger Valves? I'm not sure which ones would be beneficial to me for this setup. Let me make the note that I am not in a need for top end thats why I decided to go with the 264/272's instead of 272/272's. I want crazy bottom end power so I can do 0-60 in like 2 seconds. lol But seriously, as you can see I'm pretty much going all out on this thing but I wanna keep it nice and powerful for off the line. So what else should I do to it? Oh yeah, I almost forgot. After our review of the 7 bolt vs 6 bolt, I would love to see the advantages of a built 7 bolt but I still fear the possibility of crankwalk after I dump all this money into it. So yeah, I'm goin with a 6 bolt for it. lol Here's the list, enjoy and throw all comments or ideas my way.

Bottom End:
Block bored .040 over, resurfaced, and hot tanked
Weisco Pistons 9:1 compression
Eagle Rods
Clevite 77 bearings
ARP Main studs and Rod bolts
Lightened, balanced and heat treated crank

Head:
Resurfaced and hot tanked
ARP head studs
Multi-layer steel headgasket
Version 2 lifters
FP Cams 264/272

Driveline:
Lightened Flywheel
*Competition Race clutch (2500lb)
*Stage 2 Shepherd Transmission
*Modified B&M Short throw with steel shifter plate and underhood bushings

Bolt Ons:
Tubular Header
Turbonetics External Racegate Wastegate
*Greddy 18g Turbo
*3" Intercooler pipes
*24x12x4 with 3" inlet and outlet intercooler
*Turbo XS RFL Blow off valve
Hallman Manual Boost Controller
*N/T Throttle Body with EGR blockoff
*Massive K&N filter v-banded to the turbo inlet
*3" stainless exhaust v-banded to the turbo outlet, no cat, no restrictions

Fuel System:
255lph Fuel pump
*B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
720cc Injectors

Ignition:
*Magnercor 8.5mm Wires
*NGK Plugs

Tuning:
*GM MAF Sensor and Translator
*S-AFC
*Datalogger

Gauges:
*Boost
*EGT
Oil Pressure
Fuel Pressure
Engine Temperature

*Synthetic Fluids in everything too.


Think I might break into the 11's with a setup like that?

[Thor06]

720's will never work on an SAFC and a Greddy 18g turbo will make no more power than a Evo III 16g but I am willing to bet it costs shit tons more. Kevin used his stock springs, retainers, and valves in his 11 sec Talon and revved out to 8500 and had 272/272's (264's and 272's are made by HKS ) with no problems, so I think aftermarket stuff is pointless. Other than that, your list looks pretty good.

[Blackcrow64]

Combining the GM MAFT and AFC I can use the 720's...

(I know that 264 and 272 are HKS, but the FP Comp cams are rated the same way )

[crunchymilk55]

18g turbo sucks, much more expensive and barely outperforms the 16g. Get rid of that BOV, it leaks all the time, metal on metal can't hold boost for shit. DSMLink would make things a lot easier, then you can control timing and a lot more. Check out FP2 cams, they're cheaper and outperform 272's

[Blackcrow64]

I got the BOV from my brother because he got it in a trade and didn't need it, and I picked up an 18g with about 1500 miles on it for 300 bucks... Not a bad deal for an 18g if ya ask me. I also already have the GM MAFT and AFC... These are the reasons I'm using these parts.

[Thor06]

I didnt realize you had some of it (you should maybe put a star next to what you have) and a good deal is a good deal. One thing, arent 3" IC pipes way overkill? I thought I remembered something about all that extra volume compresses the air causing the spool time to be later. Also I would imagine that the IC pipes would be hard as hell to run at 3".

EDIT: I'd go JoeP over hallman on the MBC. Hallman is way overpriced.

[crunchymilk55]

3" will probably hurt peformance

[george536]

i think its just 3" inlet and outlet, then reducer to 2.5 most big intercoolers are 3"

[crunchymilk55]

Originally Posted by george536

i think its just 3" inlet and outlet, then reducer to 2.5 most big intercoolers are 3"

that would make more sense, but it clearly says 3" piping...

[Blackcrow64]

Its no mistake... 3" intercooler piping. Because... lol Once again, I got my intercooler and all the 3" piping I'll need with it for 160 bucks... I've gotten so many deals on everything its not even funny. I'm just missing most of the engine internals and a few bolt on things.

I like thors idea about putting stars next to the things I already have. So I'm gonna go back and edit the list that way.

**EDIT**
Also, I was thinking about how you guys kept saying that turbo was so expensive. So, I went to Greddys site and it says 2100 for that turbo brand new. WTF is up with it being so much money??

[Thor06]

Thats about $550 for the actual turbo, ~$800 for the brand name, and another $800 for all the ads and sponsorships they give out.

Also, not sure if you'd hit 11's very easily. Get some spray . If you check out www.dsmtimes.org, you will see there are lots of people that got their 16g's into the 11's and most without nitrous! I think it would be pretty tough though.

[defiancy]

I'm pretty sure you might, or could gain an advantage from using a 2.4 crank with that bottom end as well.

[crunchymilk55]

ditch the 3" piping. Yeah you already have it,and that's cool, but it will make you slower.

[BoostedSpyder]

ya lose the piping. and you are also going to want to get rid of the BOV. the problem is holding boost, not that you already have one. trade some ricer for a type-s. it's still loud as hell vented. the stock block and head are good to ~400HP or about as much as you can put into it without making a post like this. ditch all that stuff. you are asking for a garage queen. wait till you blow the head to do the headwork. the cams are awesome, but they idle like shit and you will have to get used to your engine quitting on you because of that. i dial in a +5% on the SAFC2 for the idle on hi and lo throttles to combat that, but it still happens all the time. BTW if you were thinking about it you don't need cam gears. it was a waste of $$ for me. the ECU auto adjusts anyways so all you could do was add in a couple of degrees of timing and the ecu would take it back out. but they do look nice...

also - and this is your biggest oversight - REMOVE THE BALANCE SHAFTS!!

it will add at least 10hp on a lightly modded car and signifigantly reduce your chances of CW. CW will happen to a 6 or 7 if you lose oil pressure. it is just VREY unlikely to happen to a 6 for wear reasons...

660's will take you all the way to a 20g, bt whatever. and you need to do some serious leaning about the MAF and the SAFC. also, don't forget a fuel rail and you might as well toss in some SS fuel lines.

i would go with an ACT clutch, but that is me. SS Clutch lines would do you right as well. and a symborsky shift kit to replace the rubber washers on the bottom of the shift plate [unless that is what the plate is].

and start thinking about brakes too. if you are planing on going very fast you need to be able to stop.

oh and since you are saving all kinds of $$ with all the parts you have get an EBC. i prefer the GReddy Profec B-spec2 over the GReddy RS but the RS is stupid simple to dial in and supposedy will hold more boost.

that is all i can think of...

[Blackcrow64]

Originally Posted by BoostedSpyder

ya lose the piping. and you are also going to want to get rid of the BOV. the problem is holding boost, not that you already have one. trade some ricer for a type-s. it's still loud as hell vented. the stock block and head are good to ~400HP or about as much as you can put into it without making a post like this. ditch all that stuff. you are asking for a garage queen. wait till you blow the head to do the headwork. the cams are awesome, but they idle like shit and you will have to get used to your engine quitting on you because of that. i dial in a +5% on the SAFC2 for the idle on hi and lo throttles to combat that, but it still happens all the time. BTW if you were thinking about it you don't need cam gears. it was a waste of $$ for me. the ECU auto adjusts anyways so all you could do was add in a couple of degrees of timing and the ecu would take it back out. but they do look nice...

also - and this is your biggest oversight - REMOVE THE BALANCE SHAFTS!!

it will add at least 10hp on a lightly modded car and signifigantly reduce your chances of CW. CW will happen to a 6 or 7 if you lose oil pressure. it is just VREY unlikely to happen to a 6 for wear reasons...

660's will take you all the way to a 20g, bt whatever. and you need to do some serious leaning about the MAF and the SAFC. also, don't forget a fuel rail and you might as well toss in some SS fuel lines.

i would go with an ACT clutch, but that is me. SS Clutch lines would do you right as well. and a symborsky shift kit to replace the rubber washers on the bottom of the shift plate [unless that is what the plate is].

and start thinking about brakes too. if you are planing on going very fast you need to be able to stop.

oh and since you are saving all kinds of $$ with all the parts you have get an EBC. i prefer the GReddy Profec B-spec2 over the GReddy RS but the RS is stupid simple to dial in and supposedy will hold more boost.

that is all i can think of...

Just in case ya didn't know, my 7 bolt already crankwalked on me and thats why I'm going and building this motor instead of using my stock motor.

I didn't say anything about buying any cam gears anywhere... I already know they are a waste of money. lol

As for the BOV and clutch, I already have them from my last motor and am trying to save a little bit of money by not replacing good parts. All the things with stars next to them I already have.

And I didn't overlook removing the balance shafts. That should naturally be assumed when building a motor like this. The AC is gone too.

Yeah, I aleady have steel bushings under my shift plate and under the hood. As for clutch lines and such. I'll be doing a good bit of stainless lines for the clutch line, my fuel lines, and oil lines.

I really don't see any real advantage to buying a EBC over a MBC... Both serve the same purpose with like a 200 dollar difference. lol