Opel Astra DTM Decals

[Scuderia.]

I have the 1/24 tamiya Opel Astra DTM team holzer car and I would really like to build the team Pheonix car with the yellow and white livery. So can anybody who has the team phoenix car please tell me the part number for the decal sheet so I can order them from hlj. Or better still, if anybody has the decal sheet that they don't want, please sell it to me. Thanks.

[Scale-Master]

Opel Team Phoenix:
1402471 Decal sheet A
1402473 Decal sheet B

[Scuderia.]

Thanks very much.

[RallyRaider]

Where are you located Scideria? I'm in Australia too. Maybe we could do a swap of the decal sheets? I plan to do the Alain Menu Sat 1 livery some time down the track. I imagine there is probably still lots of internal stuff needed from the kit sheet.

[Scuderia.]

I am in Newcastle, so fairly close. I also have the SMS photoetch set, so I don't need lots of the decals like the shield around the exhaust exit, belts etc. The only decals I have used so far are the ones that go on the seat. I know they are wrong and say Holzer and winklehock, but I don't really care. So if you did want to swap, which I am very interested in, then just cut out the seat decals from your sheet (although I would expect them to be in your new sheet).
Nice work getting the sat1 decals too. I really like that car and know you will do it justice.

[Scale-Master]

Originally Posted by Scuderia.

Thanks very much.

You are welcome. I'm building one and have some body painting and decalling tips fresh in my mind regarding the basic two tone & green "border" if you are interested. Things I wish I knew before I did it... - Mark

[Scuderia.]

I would be extremely interested in any tips you could give me, you are a master builder. My car is at the primer stage and I will most likely put some white down tomorrow. The masking around the front bumper looks like it could be troublesome. I have seen a few builds where there has been some bleeding, or the definition between colours is not crisp.

[Scale-Master]

I didn't use the supplied paint masks, it was easier to just mask the white off with 6mm Tamiya tape. It's a straight shot from the base of the windshield to the headlight and there are panel lines and contours to use as guides that make it easy to make both sides the same. Same with the rear masking, straight shot from the rear window to the bottom just behind the inlet scoop. Just copy the box art.
When applying the decals I put them on in numerical order, (1 then 2, 5 then 6...), in retrospect I think it may have been better to apply them in reverse order, or better yet, cut the green arrow blocks away and apply them only, since I got a sharp line between the white and yellow. Same for the rear.
When I applied the rear decals, (3, 4, 7, 8), I put both decals for each side on at the same time and juggled them to fit, (sans the little slivers, see next line).
If you choose to use the yellow and white that connects the green blocks, no adjustment is needed for the front decals, but cutting the forward sliver of the green arrows off decals 3 and 7 make it a lot easier to line everything up. Just put them on after the other decals dry.
Also be careful of the hood pins by the windshield on the hood, use decal solvent to lessen the chance of the decals cracking when they are applied over them.
Once you have those decals all done, the rest of the decaling seems to be normal with no special attention needed, but I haven't finished mine so there may be more to contend with I don't know about.
Make sure to use the Tamiya paints they suggest if you want the decals to match the paint. If you don't use those colors, I suggest you only use the green arrow blocks and cut away the yellow and white parts of decals 1-8. I hope that helps, let me know if I need to clarify anything... - Mark