Rotors - anyone else still running original

[Ramblin Fever]

rotors with over 150k miles?

Should they be replaced just from being 9yrs old & 150K?

As far as I can tell there are no issues, just curious.

Come to think of it, my 20yr old Toy still has original rotors as well

[surferfletch]

Yup. 150K. Fronts will be machined for sure with the next set of pads, if within specs. Minor pulsing while braking. I'm changing pads and calipers in the rear when the pads need changing.

[marcre]

man, I don't know how you guys do it.

My Rodeo is on the second set of rotors front (last year at this time) and back(two years ago last change). Third set of pads up front and about to be third set of pads in the rear.

[surferfletch]

I've got the same pad situation as you, I think. I don't know how folks get so many miles out of their pads, OEM or not. They must have a ton of highway miles. My miles are primarily stop and go in the burbs.

[marcre]

I should have mentioned that I have 82,000 miles.

[Ramblin Fever]

Originally Posted by marcre

man, I don't know how you guys do it.

My Rodeo is on the second set of rotors front (last year at this time) and back(two years ago last change). Third set of pads up front and about to be third set of pads in the rear.

I'm just now on my 3rd set of pads all around, just put on last spring. Original calipers as well.

My 1st Rodeo was a rotor eater; defective from the start actually. Think it had a total of 3 sets front/rear in the same amount of miles as I have on this current Rodeo. Don't remember how many brake pads, at least 4 sets I'm sure, if not 5 due to rotor issues and it pulled the boat a lot.

I've just in the last 2yrs started doing a lot of city driving; I'm pretty good at timing the lights. I'm notorious for being the last to leave after the light has turned green - I'm usually just getting to the next light AS it's turning green, whereas all of those that romped the throttle at the previous green light always hit the next red light and have to stop and start all over again.

I'm not into babying my brake pads, however, just the tranny. I don't like it when I hit red light after red light - the ups and downs on shifting can't be good, and I actually cringe on a drive where I hit a red light every 1-2 miles.

[marcre]

I've come to the conclusion that I drive "hard". I suspect my poor mileage is my fault. As for the brakes, well, the pads I've replaced were junk, aftermarket garbage. I went back to OEM. Hopefully they last.

I am going to do my rear pads in a week or so, just waiting for a bit of time and some nicer weather. I made an attempt to do it late last Sunday, but it got chilly and dark too quick. My caliper bolts were stuck on and I didn't feel like fighting with them. I did notice my rear calipers are old and rusty looking. I hope it is still OK to use. It should be, but you never know.

marc

[msikdm]

Yep, over 160,000 and still running original rotors and never turned.
Brake pads replaced at about 128,000. Awful lot of highway mileage...

cheers
msikdm

[Gizmo42]

Not knowing the full history of my rodeo I'm not sure if mine are original but they look to be. The brake pads looked to be orginal too (had less the 1/8" thickness left). My rotors will have to be replaced at some point though because it apparently sat for a while when it was in the rust belt and there are rust pits the shape of the pads in them. I had them turned when I replaced the pads but couldnt get it all out, they are at minimum thickness right now. Mine has 91k miles on it.

[highjumper25]

What are the symptoms when you need to change your rotors?

[anthonyn]

Originally Posted by highjumper25

What are the symptoms when you need to change your rotors?

A lot of times you find out you need new rotors when your brakes are checked and the rotor surface appears scarred. If the rotors are severely scarred or warped you can feel the brake pedal pulsate when applying the brakes lightly. I don't like to resurface the rotors cuz the thickness is really important for heat dissipation and to prevent warping. Fortunately, after 91k miles I'm still on my original pads and rotors.

[directory]

uhh, i don't know...

bought my truck used...

[amigo-2k]

71k, Original pads all the way around and original rotors up front (I have drums in the rear on my 2wd).

[Gizmo42]

Normally rotors should last the life of the vehicle. Needing to have them turned is the most 'normal' reason for replacing them. You can only take off so much material and still have them safe.

Reasons for rotors needing turned or replaced..

Rotors warping often (mitsubishis are known for this)
Driving a long time with stuck caliper
Letting pads wear to the metal
Vehicle sitting a long time after driving in winter with salted roads


I never had rotors turned until I bought my mitsubishi. Just replaced the pads. On the mitsu I had to have them turned every year or 2 because they would warp. Replaced them twice in 140k miles.

Had the ones on the rodeo turned because it started life in the rust belt and were in pretty bad shape. I didnt want to mess up my new pads by putting them on with rotors that rough.

[rodeo02]

The rotors and pads are REALLY short-lived on the 2002+ rodeos when they swiched to sealed bearing hubs with floating rotors. My 2002's never wore smoothly, nor did my SIL's 2003.

Joel