1998 Park Avenue Driver Side window problem

[criii]

Hi All,

I've read the posts concerning problems with the power windows but I haven't seen one that relates to my problem.

Problem: Driver side window goes up slow after about half way. After Moving the window up I can hear the motor continue to try to crank the window up until I slightly click down on the window switch. Any help would be great.

Thanks

[Loekee75]

It sounds like you have either a worn out motor/ regulator assembly (gears or linkage excessively worn) If possible have the door panel removed and inspect the regulator assembly as you roll the window up, check if there is any damage or extreme wear on the mechanism.

[criii]

Cool. Will do this weekend and let you know how it turns out.

[bigsky]

Originally Posted by criii

Hi All,

I've read the posts concerning problems with the power windows but I haven't seen one that relates to my problem.

Problem: Driver side window goes up slow after about half way. After Moving the window up I can hear the motor continue to try to crank the window up until I slightly click down on the window switch. Any help would be great.

Thanks

Just another thing to check. My window on a 97 was also getting slow about half way up. Turns out the window was getting on the outside of the rubber gasket in the window channel. If I roll my window down and back up I have to guide the window by hand so it doesn't get stuck on the gasket.

[Holaday1185]

My window just doesnt go up - Could this be the motor or something else?

[Loekee75]

holaday, it could be just your switch. If you don't have a volt meter, try jumping the wires to another one of your switches.

[Holaday1185]

As in my switch, that means the physical switch I push to make the window do its thing? I'm gonna try your idea - does that mean i need to take the pos and neg wires from a good switch and connect it to the pos and neg of the window? It seems simple. I am in the right direction?

Thanks for the help,
David

[Loekee75]

Yep, that's it. Take the positive and negative wires from your switch, and connect them to any of the other switches that are in working order. And trust me, there is WAY MORE than enough extra wire to play with inside the door than I would have ever expected, making the job very easy! This is how I tested my switch before I had a volt meter. I had to disable my rear driver side window (which is never used anyway) to use my driver window until I had a chance to pick up a "new" switch at the boneyard. After this, I simply soldered and taped up the wires and everything ran good as new!

[Holaday1185]

Some good news. I talked with my mechanic this weekend. He had to do some minor work on my car so I told him to take a look at the window. Well, he didn't take off the window panel but told me when I came to pick up the car that it was def. my motor. I have removed everything, including the panel and the black plastic protective coating. I am just no so sure that this might be it. Should I order a new motor? And no, I havn't checked the switch - he def seems to think it's the motor.

Thanks

[Mad9C1]

Can someone tell me how to remove the door panel? I took off the plastic around the door handle, and I removed the window switches, and the 2 lights, and I found 1 screw only. What am I missing? any info would be great.

For those who have a window that operates slowly, or pops out of the rubber trim, I'm going to suggest something is worn, or loose, and allowing the window to cock on an angle. Both of my front windows do this, and the driver's one is terrible, and I can see the window tilt. My passenger side window goes slowly at times, but hasn't jumped the rubber trim yet, and isn't loose enough to make the tilting so apparent, but I'm sure it's tilting.

Once I get the door panel off, and see what's wrong, I'll post back here with results, but, I have to get the darn panel off first.


Sam , (western new york)

[bigsky]

Mad9C1...I am having the same problem with my drivers side window (have not taken time yet to take it apart). Others have had the same problem (please search the other threads-I do not know how to insert hyperlinks). Seems like there are a couple of adjustments that can be made, sometimes the adjustment screw has simply come loose. Apart from that, I think a regulator can go bad.

For removing the door, find the thread "1997 PA door panels," currently on page 9. That thread also has a link to a site with pictures. Hope this helps...the door is really not that hard to remove (except for maybe that plastic pin in the defroster duct). Also, it will be good to see what you find.

[Mad9C1]

Bigsky, Thanks for the link.

That is the info i was looking for. I remember in the old days we used to remove screws, and then there were those pesty plastic things we had to just kinda pry apart, and then we'd lift the panel off. Today, it's the same, but the pesty parts seem to have been replaced with a better hook type system. My biggest issue though, was the fact I totally missed the access panel in the arm rest, which should have appeared to be a clue to me, but the one in the vent hole I would never have seen.

I have the window issue that has been going on since I bought this car (1997 Park Ave) in late December, but the other day, the linkage popped off the door handle, making it impossible to get into the driver's door with the window closed. So, it has become more urgent that I get in there to see what the issues are, and to see if I need to re-attach my linkage, or replace the door handle if it has broken.

I'll post back here with my results when I get to it.

thanks again for the info, and the link.


Sam B. (Western New York)

[telefriend]

just be careful when you pull off the panel. I had had one of the plastic hooks broken. when nunscew all the screws (including the lighton the edge), pull the whole panel upwards first, there are about 6 ot 7 hooks on the back. once all of them released, th epanel will fall off easily

[criii]

Update to my Problem: "Driver side window goes up slow after about half way. After Moving the window up I can hear the motor continue to try to crank the window up until I slightly click down on the window switch. Any help would be great."

So.... The window channel (regulator) was bent and that was causing the window to go up slow... this also shorted the motor which is why it continued to go up after the switch was released. I found a new motor for cheap at rockauto.com but they only sell the motor, not the motor with regulator. I was also able to find a used motor and window regulator from a local junk yard for about $60. Thanks for all the replies.

[Mad9C1]

Originally Posted by criii

Update to my Problem: "Driver side window goes up slow after about half way. After Moving the window up I can hear the motor continue to try to crank the window up until I slightly click down on the window switch. Any help would be great."

So.... The window channel (regulator) was bent and that was causing the window to go up slow... this also shorted the motor which is why it continued to go up after the switch was released. I found a new motor for cheap at rockauto.com but they only sell the motor, not the motor with regulator. I was also able to find a used motor and window regulator from a local junk yard for about $60. Thanks for all the replies.

Thanks for the update. I opened my door panel, and got into the door a bit, and it appears the X looking arms that drive the window up and down, are flexing. where they connect into the rails, I think the plastic peices, which are attached on a sort of pin, seem to be the culprit for me. Do you have any pics or links showing the regulator? Is this assembly with the rails, and the cross bars , the regulator assembly?

Thanks again for the info..


Sam B.