94 delta 88 just shuts off no power to FP, seats or windows

[dmc67]

ok i have a delta 88 can be goin down teh road and it will just shut off, wont start back but if i give it gas to threw the Throttle body then it will start up, but the messed up thing is when it shuts off it dont have power to the seats Fuel Pump or windows after it sits awhile it will start back up.

ANy help would be appreciated.

[98slab88]

Sounds like you might have a short or excessive current draw and it's tripping a circuit breaker.

Might want to bring that one to a mechanic.

[dmc67]

Well I do my own work on vehicles, I'm pretty mechanically inclined, I changed my N/T Talon to a Turbo in less than 3 days. Anyways where should I start looking for a short or current draw? Is their anyway to check it? any help is appreciated.


Danny

[Master01]

Follow the heavy gauge wires coming off the battery. Check out the wires going to the starter. You want to be on the look out for wires that the casing could be rubbed off. Also clean the battery terminals!!! That is where to start first. Take them off and scrub them clean if the bolts are corrorded replace them. When you put them back together put vasiline on the terminals so they won't cororde again.

[98slab88]

Originally Posted by dmc67

Well I do my own work on vehicles, I'm pretty mechanically inclined, I changed my N/T Talon to a Turbo in less than 3 days. Anyways where should I start looking for a short or current draw? Is their anyway to check it? any help is appreciated.


Danny

Cool, I also do about 98% of all the work on my car, unless my buddy's shop hooks me up, I swapped another motor in my 1991 240SX. Anyway, If you cant find the trouble easily goto a mechanic, electrial problems can be really hard to find. I had a nasty one in my '90 coupe de ville, never found it.

[kgiovan]

I have a 1998 Olds 88, and today it started acting weird. It didn't want to start, and all the electrical went out - no dash lights, clock stopped etc. When it finally started, I had to reset the clock and everything. At first it felt like it was the starter. Anyway, it started up, and was fine for about 45 miles. I shut it off, and 2 hours later went to start it, it was fine, but as I was driving, it shut off, and, again, all the electrical was out. It started up again, and got me home.

I read that the battery cables might need to be replaced. They have a tendancy to corode on the inside. I also read that it might have something to do with the key.

Any thoughts?

[osu1978]

Get a new crank shaft sensor. Solved my shutoff/stalling issues.

[sideshowbob]

Do NOT put in a new crank sensor until you've exhausted the other possibilities. In this case it would porbably be a waste of time when you consider the fact that the starter operating and the interior lights are in no way connected to the crank sensor, even indirectly. It's the battery cables.

[jimberg98]

This problem seems to have been answered here. Do a search on seats windows fuel pump and you'll find it.

The best suspect is a ground splice on the driver side floor.

I had this problem because when the dealership installed a used engine he didn't clean off the block before attaching a ground wire that was deep under the car. You can get at it from underneath or through the passenger side wheel well. When I checked the ground wire to chassis resistance, I got 9k ohms. After I cleaned it, I got less than 100ohms. The car has been running fine since.

You can do the same sort of check for all ground splices. Just check the resistance across the splice. If it's too high, replace the splice. It shouldn't even be measurable if you're talking a couple inches of wire.

What gets me is that I took the car back to the same dealership for them to diagnose the problem and they told me it was my fuel pump ($850) and then when it started happening again they said it was a battery cable and tried to charge me $450 for the cable and labor. Oh, and when they installed my fuel pump, they broke the fuel sending unit that caused it to leak like a sieve. They wanted to charge me for that, too. Another dealership charged me $75 to look and found nothing wrong.

It took me an hour once I purchased alldata for the car and was able to isolate all of the potential problems. The wiring diagrams are still inadequate though since there is obviously a circuit breaker shared between the fuel pump relay, power windows and power seats but that is not documented or if it is, I can't find it.

[Martuchie]

Stalls, no power window, seats, locks, fuel pump. I had same problem with my 94 88. Pull back the carpet on the driver side just under the door trim. You will find a large wiring harness. Taped to the outside of the harness will be a ground splice block. If it is corroded, resplice the wires and your car should start and run, and the windows, locks and seats will be back to life as well. There is another ground block on the passenger side just under the door sill. You might want to check that one too, as there may be corrosion there as well. I had to resplice both on my car and everything is back to normal.

[archer7153]

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...er=asc&start=0