Oil Cooler/Filter Line Replacement Tips

[JoshBarber]

Replaced both oil lines in my 98 Blazer this weekend. Sorry I didnt really get any pix, if I do later, I'll add them.

Theres two sets. One runs from filter to oil cooler, and the other runs from engine to filter.

I bought both through AutoZone, as they were significantly cheaper than the dealers price. Hopefully there won't be any issues with them.

They came with a double ring metal seal that had rubber gaskets pressed into them, and you'll need to use your original bolts that secure them to their sealing surfaces.

Just some tips to remember.

The Oil Filter connections are relatively easy to replace.

The engine connection is very difficult to reach. You'll first have to remove the bolt that secures the lines midway up to the engine to keep them from rattling. Then you will move on to the engine connection. After many attempts from different angles, I found the best way to remove its securing bolt was from underneath the serpentine belt facing the rear of the vehicle with a 12" extension, and a swivel before the socket. I guided the socket onto the bolt by hand before attaching the wratchet to it as there is very limited room.

One you've removed the bolt (and this is no small task) you will find it is PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE to remove the line without jacking the engine up and giving yourself an inch or two of extra room between it and the body.

Unfortunately my Haynes manual sucks and didnt give any of this info, so I found the engine jacking after several attempts to turn or twist the lines to remove them....thus the PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE quote. I'd had my vehicle up on ramps, and could not remove the lines from the engine area until I jacked underneath the engine for room.

Installation was the reverse of removal.....prepare for a sore neck, and wear long sleaves, cuz your arms get pretty scratched up reaching in and around parts....and if you have any grease or oil build up underneath like I did, its usually coated with traces of sand and grit and it feels like you're dragging your arms on sandpaper and broken glass.

Have fun!

[billibong]

Thanks for the tips. I was planning on changing mine out within the next month, they are leaking enough to notice. Did you drop the skid plates prior to starting the job, or do you feel that that would help???

[muddog321]

Yes, the front skid plate must be removed. To jack the drivers side of the engine up for this REMOVE the motor mount bolt or you will separate the rubber mount material usually from the top or block side - I know from doing it and that mount is a pain to replace.. In fact removing that singe motor mount to frame long bolt is a 2 person job due to access. Enjoy.

[JoshBarber]

Muddog,
I never removed the bolt, just slightly jacked the engine up for clearance. How do I know if I disrupted it?

[drdd]

for anybody doing this that has 4WD ...

after removing the difficult bolt, I was able to remove the lines by fitting a large wrench (could've used a crowbar) between the transfer case and the engine, using the t-case as leverage, and lift the engine up about an inch. This was enough to do the trick.

This job is awful on a 4WD !!!

Originally Posted by JoshBarber

Replaced both oil lines in my 98 Blazer this weekend. Sorry I didnt really get any pix, if I do later, I'll add them.

Theres two sets. One runs from filter to oil cooler, and the other runs from engine to filter.

I bought both through AutoZone, as they were significantly cheaper than the dealers price. Hopefully there won't be any issues with them.

They came with a double ring metal seal that had rubber gaskets pressed into them, and you'll need to use your original bolts that secure them to their sealing surfaces.

Just some tips to remember.

The Oil Filter connections are relatively easy to replace.

The engine connection is very difficult to reach. You'll first have to remove the bolt that secures the lines midway up to the engine to keep them from rattling. Then you will move on to the engine connection. After many attempts from different angles, I found the best way to remove its securing bolt was from underneath the serpentine belt facing the rear of the vehicle with a 12" extension, and a swivel before the socket. I guided the socket onto the bolt by hand before attaching the wratchet to it as there is very limited room.

One you've removed the bolt (and this is no small task) you will find it is PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE to remove the line without jacking the engine up and giving yourself an inch or two of extra room between it and the body.

Unfortunately my Haynes manual sucks and didnt give any of this info, so I found the engine jacking after several attempts to turn or twist the lines to remove them....thus the PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE quote. I'd had my vehicle up on ramps, and could not remove the lines from the engine area until I jacked underneath the engine for room.

Installation was the reverse of removal.....prepare for a sore neck, and wear long sleaves, cuz your arms get pretty scratched up reaching in and around parts....and if you have any grease or oil build up underneath like I did, its usually coated with traces of sand and grit and it feels like you're dragging your arms on sandpaper and broken glass.

Have fun!

[muddog321]

If the mount broke/separated you can power brake it (apply gas with foot firmly pressing the brake down) and see if the engine lifts up off the mount, then drops back on it when you let off the gas. There are interlocking metal tabs so it can't lift more than about 2".

As for 2wd Blazers, the single oil cooler line on them fits right thru everything cause no xfer case in the way.

[JoshBarber]

I doubt I disrupted anything. I only jacked it enough to BARELY clear on either side. As it was, I still had to twist and guide it by.

[drdd]

Originally Posted by JoshBarber

I doubt I disrupted anything. I only jacked it enough to BARELY clear on either side. As it was, I still had to twist and guide it by.

when I tried jacking up the motor (2X4 wood on oil pan), the whole front end went with it, including the t-case (which is where I needed the clearance).

[muddog321]

Then your motor mounts were good - thats why I say to pull the frome to mount bolt - a pain but ensures motor lifts and you don't break the mounts.

[herkyhawki]

Originally Posted by drdd

for anybody doing this that has 4WD ...
after removing the difficult bolt, I was able to remove the lines by fitting a large wrench (could've used a crowbar) between the transfer case and the engine, using the t-case as leverage, and lift the engine up about an inch. This was enough to do the trick.
This job is awful on a 4WD !!!

drdd, I'm guessing that you mean front differential when you say "tranfer case". There is a big difference.

The jacking of the engine is only needed if your working on a 1996 or newer.

[drdd]

Originally Posted by herkyhawki

drdd, I'm guessing that you mean front differential when you say "tranfer case". There is a big difference.

The jacking of the engine is only needed if your working on a 1996 or newer.

yeah, sorry, oops ...

[Spit]

Josh,
I just finished replacing both set on a 1997 4.3 engine 4x4. The tip about using a crowbar between the engine and the case was a life saver. I must have tried for an hour to wrangle them out, with no luck. Then I went on line and read your tips. The crowbar made all the difference in the world. I have never loosened a motor mount and didn't want to try it for the first time on my own.

Thanks a million

Spit

[ZL1power69]

thread is almost two years old. please check the dates before posting.