Advice on changing multifunction switch

[N8SBlaze]

I am going to be swapping out my multi function switch on my 97 blazer. Any advice and or things to watch for or avoid would be greatly appreciated. I already changed out the ignition switch a year ago so I know about the hassles of getting the top cover off the steering column.

[MarkJohnson72]

I will also need to do this on a 2000.....N8, can you help me with the probs you had on the dash cover and steering column?

I am getting the clicking sound from the turn signal even when it is not flashing and pretty much narrowed it down to the MFS by researching in this forum.

[N8SBlaze]

Mark,
If your asking on how to change the MFS I will be tackling it this coming weeked (4/7). I will let you know how it goes. If you are asking how to dissassemble the steering column cover there is a good "how to" post on this site that I used when I changed my ignition switch a year ago. It describes in good detail how the dash and steering column comes apart.
In short, the biggest challenge I had with the steering column was removing the top cover because it is kind of tricky getting it off around the key switch. You can find the post in the third thread down from the top of the forum page under "FAQ and How to's Inside! READ ME BEFORE POSTING!!!!!!!!!". From there scroll down till you find the subject of ELECTRICAL problems and then click on the "IGNITION SWICTH REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE." I'll let you know how my MFS replacement goes.

[blazee]

It's a pretty straight forward job. Obviously, you'll need to remove the steering column cover.
You'll need to remove the left underdash hush panel (7mm), and the knee bolster (7mm). Disconnect the parking brake release, so you can move the bolster out of your way.
There are two screws holding the switch. I think that they are T20 torx head, but I don't remember for sure. The first one goes through the top, and can be easily removed. The second goes through the front, and doesn't give you much room between the switch and the steering wheel. I
used a torx bit and a pair of pliers to get the second one out.

There are four wiring connectors. The two large connectors go down to a large plug with a screw in the center to hold it together. Remove the screw and use a screw driver to pry the plug apart. The large two connectors will slide in to the sides of this large plug. (you'll understand when you see it)

The other two small connectors go to different places, but they're easy to follow. Just remove the old ones and plug the new ones in. They just snap together, but I believe that one of them has a lock that needs to slide out before the clip will release.

[muzzy1maniac]

Why are you changing the switch? Is it the famed constant clicking disease? If so it can be cleaned in about 15 mins and works as good as new.

[N8SBlaze]

muzzy,
I am changing the switch because the turn signals do not work at all. There is no constant clicking sound, the turn signals do not come on when the switch is engaged, tried swapping the hazard and turn signal flasher, still did not work. I checked the fuse and it is still good. I've checked as much as I know to check and have narrowed it down to the multi function switch. You mentioned cleaning the switch. Can you tell me how to do that? It sounds like it would be worth the time before I spend $200 a new switch.

[muzzy1maniac]

Originally Posted by N8SBlaze

muzzy,
I am changing the switch because the turn signals do not work at all. There is no constant clicking sound, the turn signals do not come on when the switch is engaged, tried swapping the hazard and turn signal flasher, still did not work. I checked the fuse and it is still good. I've checked as much as I know to check and have narrowed it down to the multi function switch. You mentioned cleaning the switch. Can you tell me how to do that? It sounds like it would be worth the time before I spend $200 a new switch.

I found this in the Grand Am forum but it should be damn close if not right on for us too...

The fix for this is easy and free. The problem is caused by contaminated grease which has bridged contacts of the multifunction switch. This cause a short circuit which cause the hazard flasher to cycle. You need a #25 torx and a # 10 torx. Remove the 3 #25 torx screws which hold plastic surrounding the steering column. Remove the plastic. Remove the 25 torxmulti function switch. Detatch the wiring connectors. Remove the multifunction switch. Use the #10 torx to remove all the #10 torx screws. Remove the cover and clean the grease off the contacts and copper switch plate.You will notice grease has bridged the some of the slots in switch plate. Clean it up and regrease. reverse steps to reinstall. Notice the metal peice protruding from the multi function as it facing you. This is the turn signal reset switch. When you turn this is what resets the turn signal when the wheels straighten. This needs to be pushed in so no more than 1/8 " is protruding. If you dont do this before reinstalling your horn may go off when ever you move the steering wheel after reinstallation. This whole job should take 20- 45 minutes based on your mechanical apptitude.




Regrease very lightly so as not to create the same problem again. Not sure if this will fix your problem but it's worth the few minutes of time. Let us know if it works or doesn't. I've only done this on switches that can't stop clicking. Good luck!

[N8SBlaze]

Thanks Muzzy
I'll try that in a couple of days when I have a spare moment.

[N8SBlaze]

Originally Posted by muzzy1maniac

I found this in the Grand Am forum but it should be damn close if not right on for us too...

The fix for this is easy and free. The problem is caused by contaminated grease which has bridged contacts of the multifunction switch. This cause a short circuit which cause the hazard flasher to cycle. You need a #25 torx and a # 10 torx. Remove the 3 #25 torx screws which hold plastic surrounding the steering column. Remove the plastic. Remove the 25 torxmulti function switch. Detatch the wiring connectors. Remove the multifunction switch. Use the #10 torx to remove all the #10 torx screws. Remove the cover and clean the grease off the contacts and copper switch plate.You will notice grease has bridged the some of the slots in switch plate. Clean it up and regrease. reverse steps to reinstall. Notice the metal peice protruding from the multi function as it facing you. This is the turn signal reset switch. When you turn this is what resets the turn signal when the wheels straighten. This needs to be pushed in so no more than 1/8 " is protruding. If you dont do this before reinstalling your horn may go off when ever you move the steering wheel after reinstallation. This whole job should take 20- 45 minutes based on your mechanical apptitude.




Regrease very lightly so as not to create the same problem again. Not sure if this will fix your problem but it's worth the few minutes of time. Let us know if it works or doesn't. I've only done this on switches that can't stop clicking. Good luck!

Thanks for the advice Muzzy!
I dissassembled the switch. I was not able to get all the way down to the bare contacts. I was having trouble getting apart the last piece that makes the contact between the turn signal lever and the copper contact. I did not want to break the piece. I cleaned what I could and reassembled the switch and low and behold it worked after everything was back together! You saved me $200 for now. Hopefully there will not be a reoccurence of the original problem but if it does I'll try to clean it again. Thanks again.

[muzzy1maniac]

Great, glad it worked! MAybe this will get into the FAQ and save a bunch of people money since it's so common.

[t_berf]

I'm at the midway point on my multifunction switch cleaning attempt for my '98 Blazer (trying to cure the fabled "constant clicking" problem). I'm having some issues with removing the plugs entering the switch.

it was posted that:
"There are four wiring connectors. The two large connectors go down to a large plug with a screw in the center to hold it together. Remove the screw and use a screw driver to pry the plug apart. The large two connectors will slide in to the sides of this large plug. (you'll understand when you see it)"

Unfortunately, I'm not understanding. I don't see a center screw, and the plugs don't want to come apart when I depress the side tabs.

On the bottom of the switch, I can remove the four torx screws, but the piece covering the copper switching plate does not fully come off (still connected somehow). I may be able to clean some of it and regrease as is, but if I could remove the bottom covering plastic piece the enitire switching plate could be accessed. I'm assuming that this can be removed after the plugs on the top come off.

Any further advice would be very helpful (this thread has already been very handy). If necessary, I can send a picture.

Thanks much.

[N8SBlaze]

t berf,
I never did fully dissassemble the multi function switch and unplug it. I know exactly what you are talking about with the plastic piece that covers the contacts. I did not find a way to get it off and I did not want to break it since I was at first trying to clean the contacts versus replacing the entire switch. I just cleaned what I could with a cotton swab and reassembled the switch and magically it the turn signals worked. One tip I can offer is to make sure you have the "gears" lined up for your wipers when you reassemble the switch.
Concerning the plugs are on my 97 blazer the wires do not unlug at the switch but rather they travel farther down into the dash and into another plug assembly. I remember looking at the plug assembly and I also did not see a center screw. I am wondering if Blazee was not refrerring to the ignition switch plug assembly when he posted those instructions, because that one has a center screw. Hopefully someone else on this site can give you further direction.

[blazee]

The instructions I posted were to the original question of how-to replace the switch. The big connector I was talking about is where the wires of the multifunction switch connect to the vehicle harness under the dash. You shouldn't have to worry about it if you're just cleaning the switch.