'98, brake & abs light on, bad shifting, and other issues

[way2tall]

I bought a 1998 Intrigue 3 months ago, and I really enjoy this car. The odometer reads 100k km (60k miles), but I'm 99% sure it's been rolled back, because a) it has too many issues for the mileage, b) has too much underside rust and body chips for the mileage, and c) was a sales rep's car for 6-7 years.

I've done quite a bit of work to it so far:
- Front Driver's side: axle shaft + ball joint + bushings
- Front Passenger side: tie rod end + bearing
- Other stuff: new fuel filter (old one was jam-packed with brown stuff), air filter, alignment, oil, etc.

It still has a few problems, most of which are diagnosed somewhere on these forums:
- Electric windows are only controllable from driver's switch, regardless of the window lock switch position;
- rear passenger side window does erratic things (goes up when down is pressed, goes down when nothing is pressed, won't come up unless window lock is on, etc) so I just don't use it;
- rear passenger side rattles a LOT (shocks? bushings? gonna check on it this week)
- I'm missing about 12 of the little plastic screw things on the lug nuts (anyone have some for sale?)
- I was missing one plastic wheel center cover, but I got 4 from a friend so now I have 3 extra (anyone looking to buy some?)
- Far-right-hand light is out in instrument cluster
- Wipers erratic in freezing-rain conditions (found the cure on these forums, gonna fix it over the summer)

BUT, the 2 problems that worry me are the following:

-- Brake warning light and ABS warning light both on all the time, and ABS does not fuction (I've locked the wheels to test it). When I got my oil changed, the mechanic checked the brakes and sensors (captors?) and says they're fine, and it's probably an issue with the computer (maybe a result of the odometer turn-back that I suspect?). Anyone had a similar issue?

-- Transmission weird shifting: When cruising at speeds between 50 and 80kph (30 to 50mph), the transmission will not shift up until it has reached over 80kph (50mph) and 3500rpm, and then will go all the way down to 1400 rpm or so. It's almost like there's a gear missing. This is the only issue with the tranny, it doesn't rough-shift or do anything else bad. Anyone ever hear of this?

I know I rambled on quite a bit, but if anyone has any suggestions on any of the problems (even the less important ones like the instrument cluster light), any input would be greatly appreciated.

Looking forward to participating in these forums!

- way2tall.

[BNaylor]

The Instrument Panel bulb is the easy part. Just remove the IP cluster and on the back are the lamp holders. It takes a 194 mini-lamp.

To properly determine what the ABS problem is you'll need to get it scanned with a scanner capable of generating GM CHASSIS/ABS codes and get the DTC error code(s).

On the tranny try a pan drop and change the ATF and put in a new screen filter first. It is not recommended to get a flush especially considering it may have high mileage if you suspect the odometer was tampered with. The 4T65E shifting is electrically controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM controls shifting via 1-2 and 3-4 upshift solenoids. Also, there is a TCC-PWM and PCS solenoid. All of these solenoids are part of the valve body. One of the solenoids could be bad or sticking. Also, if there is a total lack of a certain gear like 3rd or 4th (overdrive) then it could be a mechanical problem like a bad clutch spline.

[Laser17]

The ABS and BRAKE light will probably give you two codes, one for the ABS module and one for the ABS Sensor, unfortunatly since both sit adjacent to each other, if one goes both codes go off. You won't know if its bad until you take it all apart, you may find that you need one of the parts, or both, the sensor is cheap, but the module is expensive. When you first start the car does the light come on right away, or does it wait till the "yatzee rattle", the "yatzee rattle" is actually the computer performing an ABS test right as you start driving, if it fails the light will come on shortly after it tests.

[way2tall]

Originally Posted by Laser17

The ABS and BRAKE light will probably give you two codes, one for the ABS module and one for the ABS Sensor, unfortunatly since both sit adjacent to each other, if one goes both codes go off. You won't know if its bad until you take it all apart, you may find that you need one of the parts, or both, the sensor is cheap, but the module is expensive. When you first start the car does the light come on right away, or does it wait till the "yatzee rattle", the "yatzee rattle" is actually the computer performing an ABS test right as you start driving, if it fails the light will come on shortly after it tests.

I never got a "yahtzee rattle" or any kind of rattle from the front end. The light comes on when I start the car, with all the other lights, and stays on when the others shut off...