Dash lit up like a christmas tree

[mark519]

My 02 Alero has a severe grinding noise coming from the LF and the dash has multiple lights on. Here are the ones on trac off, anti lock, check engine, low tire pressure. I have a suspision it is the wheel bearing. I had it in the shop about a month ago for an unrelated issue and one code that came up was the wheel speed sensor. Anyone have an idea. Also, if it is the wheel bearin, is it relativly easy to change.

[BNaylor]

I agree. Sounds like a bad hub/bearing. The wheel sensor is an integral part of the hub/bearing so the whole hub will need to be replaced. Not that cheap. About $125 and up depending on the brand and quality.

Job can be done DIY in about two hours or less. Special tools will be required like a hub puller, torque wrench, breaker bar, 36mm socket for the axle nut. Axle nut torque will range from 150 - 180 ft-lbs depending on what the hub manufacturer specifies.

[undersc0re]

I got it done with a short socket barely, and I used my hydraulic jack to push on the ratchet while holding the ratchet straight to loosen the nut, its tight! Then to pull the thing off the axle I did not need a puller, I gave it 1 maybe 2 shots with my hammer and it slid right off the splines, good time to re-do your brakes if its been a while! It is definetely your hub, get the premium if its an option and you won't be doing that bearing again, make sure the torque specs you apply to the bearing are the minimum of the range to get the maximum life out of your bearing. My bearing failed shortly after I ran my pads down to nothing, I believe the heat from that incident had to do with my early bearing failure, although it is a common thing. I replaced it at 68,000 KM. Now I have to fix my blower motor resistor, my rear defrost(probably relay), the rust on my hood seams, and bottom edges of my door, and my rear brakes, I am now at 83,000 KM. I also had a problem with misfires at between 1500 rpm and 3000 rpm under load, ended up being my coilpack housing leaking spark under load. Other than these I have had no problems!

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by undersc0re

I got it done with a short socket barely, and I used my hydraulic jack to push on the ratchet while holding the ratchet straight to loosen the nut, its tight! Then to pull the thing off the axle I did not need a puller, I gave it 1 maybe 2 shots with my hammer and it slid right off the splines, good time to re-do your brakes if its been a while! It is definetely your hub, get the premium if its an option and you won't be doing that bearing again, make sure the torque specs you apply to the bearing are the minimum of the range to get the maximum life out of your bearing. My bearing failed shortly after I ran my pads down to nothing, I believe the heat from that incident had to do with my early bearing failure, although it is a common thing. I replaced it at 68,000 KM. Now I have to fix my blower motor resistor, my rear defrost(probably relay), the rust on my hood seams, and bottom edges of my door, and my rear brakes, I am now at 83,000 KM. I also had a problem with misfires at between 1500 rpm and 3000 rpm under load, ended up being my coilpack housing leaking spark under load. Other than these I have had no problems!

Are you the original owner and what year Alero? Depending on your year check with your GM dealer about that rust. It seems premature for your mileage even though you may live up North. Rust through protection is supposed to be 6 years or 100K miles, whichever comes first. I believe there is a GM TSB out on hoods rusting.

[vamc]

Bob..thalking about rust, on the corner of my hood there is a little rust, do you have a prob with that on your alero? any rust on your alero?

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by vamc

Bob..thalking about rust, on the corner of my hood there is a little rust, do you have a prob with that on your alero? any rust on your alero?

No Andrew. We don't get any rust in West Texas. There is rust through warranty up to X amount of years or mileage. Can't remember exactly.

The best solution if it gets real bad is have a body/paint shop repair it before it gets worse. Also, you can get a Keystone CAPA certified hood for around $200 and it will cost around $200 - $250 to get it painted. More expensive if you have metallic paint.

[JTrujillo86]

The rust-through warranty is good for 6 years or 100K miles.

- Jeremy

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by JTrujillo86

The rust-through warranty is good for 6 years or 100K miles.

- Jeremy

Thanks for the info Jeremy. Yeah, bummer Andrew has over 130K miles.

[vamc]

138,200mi...and running strong.

[Godfather JAM]

I've had to replace 3- N body hub/bearings. There is a improved nut you can get from the dealer that requires less tork and should prolong the life of the part. I also have my passenger front edge of my hood starting to rust .
I love the car but it is not problem free by any means.

[vamc]

same over here with the pass. side rust.