|
| Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | Quality Dog Food | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
|
| Latest | 0 Rplys |
|
|||||||
![]() |
Show Printable Version | Email this Page |
Subscribe to this Thread
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
|
#1 | |
|
AF Regular
![]() Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: N/A
Posts: 111
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
replacing ball joints, having difficulty
Hi, im trying to replace the ball joints on my POS 95 blazer, and i cannot get my front hub assembly off so i can get the halfshaft for the 4X4 out of the way so i can get them out. any tips on how to remove it? no autoparts store ive been to has the right tool to remove it, tried a couple diff pullers, but all it did was strip the threads on the tempered bolt used to operate the puller. i have removed the nut holding the assembly on, and on my old ford ranger when that nut was removed, you could pull it off by hand. on this, ive tried pullers, beat of it with a hammer, and its not moving at all. any tips or ideas on how to get it off? or know what the special tool is called or where to get it? thanks much in advance.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 | |
|
AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 503
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
I used an air hammer to remove mine , I had trouble at trying most of what you have done . But I hit it with the air hammer and it fell off in 2 seconds .
There is a special fork shaped tool that you wedge between it and the "A" arm with a hammer . All I know is it is made for ball joint removal . Drilling out the rivots is another story . Have fun , Rob
__________________
2000 Trans Am six speed Blackbird .Fast enough stock! 2005 Grand Prix. 2005 2500HD Silverado 4x4 , Duramax!!!!!!! Lifted ,Pumped,Humped,Thumped! 1988 JEEP Cherokee: Lifted, Sons new toy. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 | ||
|
AF Regular
![]() Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: N/A
Posts: 111
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
Quote:
You used an air hammer to remove your hub assembly? or your ball joints? I dont see how to get the ball joints out, or even grind the rivets off the lower ball joint, as the front half shaft for my 4X4 is in the way and i cant get the hub assembly off. i have the rivets for the upper ball joint ground off and its loose, but i cannot get it out. my chiltons manual says something about a special tool to force it up and out, which i dont have, but it says i can make one by using a bolt, socket, and nut, and put the bolt in the socket, and turn the nut to force the ball joint up and out, but the half shaft is in the way to preform this action. any thoughts on that? |
||
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | |
|
AF Newbie
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hot Springs, Arkansas
Posts: 37
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
if you are trying to remove the wheel bearing hub, there should be three bolts on the back side of it that you also have to remove. this in cobanation to the center nut removed off the front shaft should let you pull the hub.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
AF Regular
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Roselle, Illinois
Posts: 168
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
When I replaced my balljoints, I ended up taking them out in pieces and was able to squeeze the new ones in without messing with the hub. Are you trying to get the threaded end of the balljoint out of the housing? If so, I just used the fork, they sell them at any auto store. Sometimes you have to really beat on it. I used a something like a mini sledge hammer. I don't think that a standard hammer would work(maybe it will), not enough force.
__________________
1998 Blazer 4WD 4.3L 118,000miles 4dr Repairs--rear main seal, u/l ball joints, pitman/idler arms, i/o tie rod ends, control arm bushings, motor/trans mounts, oil relocation lines, door pin bushings, water pump, ring/pinion. --Bad ABS ground, loose connection blower motor, repaired pulse board. Mods/upgrades-Throttle plate mod. 1999 Ford Windstar SE 3.8L 160,000miles Repairs--P171/P174 procedure, loaded control arms, tie rod ends, shocks, struts, springs. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 | |
|
AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sussex, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,073
Thanks: 1
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
Sounds like your CV shaft is rusted pretty well to the hub.
Here's what I've done in the past. Heat around the spline edges of the shaft and the hub with a small propane torch for a good 10-15 minutes. That should limber the sucker up. With the large nut back on the shaft, turn the nut so that it's ouside is flush with the shaft and wail on that thing with a 5 pound sledge. That should loosen it up. If you have an acetaline torch, that would be even better. I've gone through a least 1 propane torch a year for over 25 years now, doing just this procedure, whether it be to remove ujoints, strut bolts, shocks - heck, you name it, I've torched it (except the gas tank). About $10.00 for a propane set at the hardware store. 5 pound sledge should be about the same in price.
__________________
It's my opinion, don't take it personal. '04 T&C,'01 Blazer ZR2, '97 Blazer, '97 Sunfire, '85 Vette, '79 Civic, 94 FLSTC |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 | |
|
AF Newbie
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Flagstaff, Arizona
Posts: 43
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
if it don't go, forget the bigger hammer, grab the torch....... lol, love my torch...........
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 | |
|
AF Regular
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Roselle, Illinois
Posts: 168
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
If you have high miles on the truck and have the time, I would recommend changing the control arm bushings also, it's only a few more bolts, but they are rough to get out and put in (special tools needed, but I managed to make my own). Chaning these got rid of my clunking and tightened up the steering.
__________________
1998 Blazer 4WD 4.3L 118,000miles 4dr Repairs--rear main seal, u/l ball joints, pitman/idler arms, i/o tie rod ends, control arm bushings, motor/trans mounts, oil relocation lines, door pin bushings, water pump, ring/pinion. --Bad ABS ground, loose connection blower motor, repaired pulse board. Mods/upgrades-Throttle plate mod. 1999 Ford Windstar SE 3.8L 160,000miles Repairs--P171/P174 procedure, loaded control arms, tie rod ends, shocks, struts, springs. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 | |
|
AF Regular
![]() Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: N/A
Posts: 111
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
yea, i cant get the freakin hub off, or the upper ball joint out, if i could get the axle shaft out of the way i could pound it out, but i cannot get it out. i got a ball joint press, but it wont fit because the axle shaft is in the way, my truck is in pieces, and its about to be in a lot more pieces if i cant get it soon. im never buying a pos chevy again. some lying sob told me chevys were easier to work on, but from my experience, ford is alot easier to work on.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 | ||
|
AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sussex, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,073
Thanks: 1
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
Quote:
__________________
It's my opinion, don't take it personal. '04 T&C,'01 Blazer ZR2, '97 Blazer, '97 Sunfire, '85 Vette, '79 Civic, 94 FLSTC |
||
|
|
|
|
|
#11 | |
|
Problem?
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,248
Thanks: 63
Thanked 114 Times in 94 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
Those things can be a PITA. Try spraying some penetrating oil on the splines of the half shaft. Let it soak in and then spray a little more. Hold a 2x4 over the shaft to protect the threads and then beat the hell out of it with a BFH. After it breaks loose and starts to move back, remove the three bolts ( 18mm if I remember correctly) in the back of the hub and work it off over the shaft.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 | ||
|
AF Regular
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Roselle, Illinois
Posts: 168
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
Quote:
__________________
1998 Blazer 4WD 4.3L 118,000miles 4dr Repairs--rear main seal, u/l ball joints, pitman/idler arms, i/o tie rod ends, control arm bushings, motor/trans mounts, oil relocation lines, door pin bushings, water pump, ring/pinion. --Bad ABS ground, loose connection blower motor, repaired pulse board. Mods/upgrades-Throttle plate mod. 1999 Ford Windstar SE 3.8L 160,000miles Repairs--P171/P174 procedure, loaded control arms, tie rod ends, shocks, struts, springs. |
||
|
|
|
|
|
#13 | |
|
AF Regular
![]() Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: N/A
Posts: 111
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
heres my situation so far.
caliper is off, 3 bolts out of back of hub, lower ball joint removed, tie rod end removed, nut is off of the end of hub, upper ball joint is cut off, but still stuck in the hole, with no way to pound it out as the half shaft is in the way, and its tappered, so basically the only way im getting it out now is to get the halfshaft out of the way so i can pound it out. i had a pickle fork, but it didnt work, so i resorted to a sawsall. ive been without my truck for like 3 days, and if i cant get that freakin half shalft out of there soon, im taking the sawsall to it, and after i get my ball joints back in, ill take it somewhere and have them fix the rest of it, im going insane. if i use a puller, pushing on the shaft, and pulling on the hub where the lug nuts go, will that pull it off the shaft? or will it break something? Last edited by SultanGris; 03-26-2006 at 03:45 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 | |
|
AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 503
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
Sorry I did not get back sooner . I don't have time on the weekends to play online . The fork is what I was refering to earlier to remove the ball joint , but if you have already used the sawzall you have more problems . Heat the section witha propane torch until cherry red and hit the balljoint upward with a big hammer . The axle may have a "C" clip hidden in the grease that you are missing . But I did not have to remove it , if you do you might have to replace its bearings too . Rob
__________________
2000 Trans Am six speed Blackbird .Fast enough stock! 2005 Grand Prix. 2005 2500HD Silverado 4x4 , Duramax!!!!!!! Lifted ,Pumped,Humped,Thumped! 1988 JEEP Cherokee: Lifted, Sons new toy. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#15 | |
|
AF Regular
![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Taneytown, Maryland
Posts: 291
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Re: replacing ball joints, having difficulty
I just went through all this over the weekend, myself. Whern I had problems pulling the passenger side hub assembly I used a three jaw puller and was able to break it loose. Make sure that you have the three 18mm bolts removed from the back and the 36mm hub bolt that is on the axle. Spraty the threaded axle down liberally with penetrating oil, and then put the three jaw puller on the hub with the bolt on the axle shaft. As you tighten the bolt on the puller it will pull the hub assembly off. It isn't the easiest job, but it gets it done. I also had to help the hub assembly along with a little pursuasion from a hammer on the back of the hub assembly.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
__________________
billibong 99 4X4 Blazer LS Vin W Repairs: U/L Ball Joints, I/O Tie Rod Ends, New Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves, New Idler Arm, R & L Front Hubs, R & L Upper CA Bushings, New Gabriel Ultramax Shocks (what a difference) F & R Brakes and Rotors at 110,000. Infinity Speakers to replace the blown factory sets. 162K+ and still kicking. |
|
|
|
|
|
![]() |
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
![]() |
|
|