Question about Tamiya's Mitsu Evo's

[cham2020]

Well, i was wondering,
For the street version
1) do you guys glued the bumpers and side skirts together first and then prime
or did you guys do it seperately


For the rally version
1) do you guys sperate spray the bumpers and skirts and then glued it to the
body?

because i am scare the paint will thicken and will fit into the body but it will break later when we fit into the chassis......

i hope you guys understand wat i say?

thanks very much

[SteveK2003]

In my experience, unless the mounting pins are hidden well out of the way, or it's impossible to get the body on with the parts in place, I would glue them before you paint it. For the Evo VI rally car, I will glue them on first and then paint it (Eventually......).

I have the Hasegawa street Evo VI and the body is all one piece : Does the Tamiya kit have separate parts?

[drunken monkey]

never built an evo but how about you do a dry run and test fit the parts using tape and see if it looks like you can get body onto chassis without any ill effects?
as a general rule, before i try anything else, i tend to see how the body and chassis mate and decide what to do from there.

also, in some cases, there isn't a hard and fast method.
even if you can glue parts together before painting, some people will still prefer to paint parts separately and some will always prefer to glue together first.

have a look at the ferrari/dino 246 gt builds here.
the body comes in 3-4 parts that if you want accuracy (no visible joins on the nose or rear butresses) you'd have to glue and putty and sand before primer+painting. However, this makes mating the chassis next to impossible. The solution to this is what ever the modeller is comfortable with. Some people trimmed the chassis so it can be made to fit in. I cut my chassis in half (front+rear) and marked the join with some extra styrene strips so that i can wedge in both parts and then glue in place using the retainer as guide to match up the two chassis parts.
Not everyone will do the same.
You've got to learn and figure out how to do some things for yourself.

[SteveK2003]

Ugh, there is a Revell Jaguar that is like that. It looks like you have to build it like the model airplane guys do, and build the cockpit, glue the fuselage around it, then finish the seams and paint it while masking off the interior.

[cham2020]

Steve, basically Tamiya's Evo VI, V Rally and the Evo VI Street version have the same chassis and body ( seperated with bumpers and side skirts). I am pretty scare cause i screwed up two evo vi street version and i have evo vi and evo v rally in my stash collection and i am building them soon.

here is why i am scare, look at this photo

the rear bumper has a gap and i believe this model is not fully attached to the chassis because if it is fully attach the muffler tip will not be so low and it must almost touch the bumper.

drunken monkey
thanks for the explaination .
i tried doing that before, it fits before spraying and after spraying and attach them together and when i fit to the chassis, the front bumper will fall and follow by the rear bumper. maybe the paint is thick? is that one of the possibility?
i don't really like the idea of gueling before spray because i feel it is not perfect. what i am trying to say is there are unsprayed parts and that leave me very uncomfrtable. just my 2 cents

thanks guys

[SteveK2003]

OK, I knew about the rally kits being the same chassis (The Evo VI actually has the Evo V tarmac suspension parts and wheels in the box), but I haven't seen their street Evo VI.

Is that your Evo? Looks pretty slick, I might have to use the Evo V wheels on the Hase kit. I saw an Evo knock-off in a video game, it was like the Tommi Makkinen Edition, with the 'arrows' on the side, only green instead of red, and I was thinking about trying that.

[cham2020]

trust me steve
that is not my evo . i never manage to build a street version successfully. one went into the dustbin and one become the accident cabriolet verison.
i have compared the chassis. it's the same.
nice idea steve,
post some progress photos ok?

[drunken monkey]

have you tried carefully removing some paint from the areas you are going to apply glue/cement/bonding agent to?

and steve, i know the jaguar xkss kit; got one on the go.
what i've done for that one is to seperate the top half of the rear part of body into two parts along the body panel line. this way, the interior can still be slid into position as well as having the rear end with the correct (seamless) body shell.
i'll get some pics as soon as i get something photogenic done to it.

[stevenoble]

I don't know if this will help you but when I built my Evo VI Rally version I added the bumpers at the end after all the painting was finished.However the difficulty is getting a strong enough join without getting glue all over the paintwork as the Tamiya kits don't provide much of a lip to glue the bumper to.I ended up gluing the bodyshell to the chassis using small tabs of plastic card to strenghen the join with 5 minute epoxy glue.When this had set it was a simple case of fitting the bumpers with ordinary wood glue which won't damage your paintwork.So in essence the bumpers and side sills are just resting on and the shell is glued on.You can use a little watered down wood glue run into the gaps as well to hide them.Using this method worked for me.Hope this makes sense.Steve.

[cham2020]

Originally Posted by stevenoble

I don't know if this will help you but when I built my Evo VI Rally version I added the bumpers at the end after all the painting was finished.However the difficulty is getting a strong enough join without getting glue all over the paintwork as the Tamiya kits don't provide much of a lip to glue the bumper to.I ended up gluing the bodyshell to the chassis using small tabs of plastic card to strenghen the join with 5 minute epoxy glue.When this had set it was a simple case of fitting the bumpers with ordinary wood glue which won't damage your paintwork.So in essence the bumpers and side sills are just resting on and the shell is glued on.You can use a little watered down wood glue run into the gaps as well to hide them.Using this method worked for me.Hope this makes sense.Steve.

yup, i agree with you about the lip to glue the bumper sutff ! ! !
i will try your method
really apprrecaite that

[kaho]

I paint with bumpers and side skirts taped together with a very small gap (to make sure that none of the sections will be left unpainted only to find out when assembling after painting) The gaps were small enough to not let a lot of paint get onto the sections of the bumpers that will be glued. After paint dries I run sandpapers through those glueing points again to remove the little paint that made through the gap.

I am always afraid that the gluing of bumpers doesnt make up a panel line similar to the other panel lines on the body. If that line became too shallow then it would be hard to wash it with black.

Since paint will cover up the cleavage between the bumper and the body, if you accidentally knock the bumper off after gluing then painting, the paint will crack along the bumper line and will have a jagged edge along the entire length of the bumper. The paint might continue chipping upwards on the body and downwards on the bumper.

In conclusion I don't glue the parts on after primer and paint is completed.