Timing Chain and Rear Main Seal replacement

[bikernut]

I have to replace the rear main seal in my 92 S-10 Blazer and I was wondering if there were any short cuts. I am going to have to remove the engine as I also need to replace the valve seals and it looks like it would be easier to remove the engine to do both rear main seal and the valve stem seals.
Another question while I am in there does the timing chain have the plastic coated gear and if so I might as well change everything at once and get it over with, it has also 120,000 miles? I am open to all suggestions to make this a lot easier. I have a factory service manual but I know you guys must have some real good ideas on this as I have never done a 4.3 V/6 but then again it is a small block V/8 with the last to cylinders chopped off.

[dmbrisket 51]

4 or 2 wheel? doing guides means the heads come off, doing a timing chain is worth it at 120k, front of the moter has to come apart, and the tranny needs disconnected to do the rms, i guess its 6 to one half a dozen to another, youve got your work cut out for you weather you do a r&r or a teardown, why would you just replace the valve seals? why wouldnt you check for valve guide wear and possibly send the heads down to the machine shop? and if your goin to do that you might as well send the block to for a clean and check for cracks, hone, and new pistons and rings, your going to have a lot of money into what you want to do, and if your doin it yourselfe why not have a fresh moter instead of just heads and a couple of seals, an engin kit and a machin shop lookover and youll be verry happy when the wallet fills up again

[bikernut]

this is a 4X4 and not doing the valve guides just the valve guide seals. I won't have to pull the heads as I have a compression gauge that doubles as a devise to hook up air to it and hold the valves up. Yes I know the trans has to be removed and also the transfer case if I was to do it that way but with the engine compartment so cramped and be being a big old hairy guy with little to no patiences and the A/C on the right side and that damn steering shaft on the left it would be better for me to pull it. Since it does have 120,000 miles I think as you it is also a good time to replace or check the timing gear to see if it is or has the plastic coated teeth that start to fall off and get caught in the oil pump and then lose the engine to lack of lubrication. I was a ASE certified mechanic up until 87 but never pulled a V/6 apart or out of a S-10 just its big brothers. As to valve guide wear I will see if there is much movement when I do the seals and it it looks bad I will cross that bridge when I get there. It isn't going to cost that much as I have already done my shopping and with a Fel-Pro Overhaul Gasket Set, Timing Chain set by Edlebroke, new Bosch Platinum Plus 4 spark plugs, Prestone Antifreeze, and a stay open thermostate when it fails, it all comes to $225 and my time is free as I have 14 days off a month from my job so time isn't a factor. If I had to do a valve guide job , piston and rings I think I would just go and get a new Target Master Engine from my local Chevy dealer (with my discount).
I also have the use (no time limit either) of a heated garage with a 10,000 # lift and tools just not any special tools, hopeing I won't need much there as the closest place to rent them is 35 miles from me.

[bikernut]

I have as I said no time limit as I have enough vehicles to use for any extended period so I can take my time and with my son, and son-in-law helping it probably won't take that much time but they have real jobs that don't give them the time off that mine does.

[dmbrisket 51]

stay away from those bosch plat4 plugs, they are pure guarbage, just go with the delco (not ase yet, but im a certified teck.), the only thing ive seen a use for those bosch plugs is in place of an antifowler

[bikernut]

I have never heard that before so I will do some seaching as I don't want a standard plug, I want one that is going to last a long time. I tried Splitfires a few years ago and they didn't impress me one bit, removed them and put in Champion, indexed them the whole 9 yards and that is what is in there now but it is starting to start harded and I know it is the plugs as they should have been removed at about 101,000 miles and it is at almost 120,000 so they have performed good.

[dmbrisket 51]

im tellen ya, if you want quality use ac delco, go platnum if you want good ones, but bosch and champioun, nkg;s, are all ment for lawnmowers todya