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  #1  
Old 03-12-2006, 12:02 PM
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Angry Hard Ride!

I have a 2000 S-10 Blazer 4Dr 4X4 4.3L Auto. Im riding on 20" rims with 255/45 toyo tires. All suspention is stock except for the Edlebrok IAS shocks. Now my ride quality is not the greatest. I want to have a nice ride so what things should I replace? I'm not sure where to go - control arms and ball joints? swaybars? new shocks? I have no idea what to do or where to start. Help!
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Old 03-12-2006, 03:56 PM
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Re: Hard Ride!

Those 20" wheels and tires are killing your ride. Oversize wheels and tires make steering response quicker due to the fact there is less sidewall on the tire reducung the amount of air, (air mass) in the tire, that's where you lose ride quality. Your question of what to replace to get the ride back? Replace the wheels and tires. Put the originals back on. Ball joints, sway bar and control arms have nothing to do with why your vehicle rides hard.
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Old 03-12-2006, 04:05 PM
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Re: Hard Ride!

well I am definately keeping the 20's on but even with the stock tires on it still feels "sloppy". I feel like I'm jumping all over the road when driving. I'm looking at some sway bars at the moment.
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2000 S-10 Blazer LT 4.3L EFI 4DR 4WD
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All Clear Lights w/ L.E.D Bulbs
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Old 03-12-2006, 04:10 PM
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Re: Hard Ride!

If it feels "sloppy" with the stock wheels and tires, there is something worn in the suspension or the steering linkage. It is possible for wheel alignment to make it feel "sloppy". If caster is set too low it will wander on wet or dry roads. If toe in or camber is not within specs, it will make the vehicle feel "squirrelly" most noticeable on wet, snow covered or icy roads.

NOTE: Simply changing wheels and tires has no effect on wheel alignment.
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Old 03-12-2006, 06:02 PM
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Re: Hard Ride!

Quote:
Originally Posted by old_master
If it feels "sloppy" with the stock wheels and tires, there is something worn in the suspension or the steering linkage. It is possible for wheel alignment to make it feel "sloppy". If caster is set too low it will wander on wet or dry roads. If toe in or camber is not within specs, it will make the vehicle feel "squirrelly" most noticeable on wet, snow covered or icy roads.

NOTE: Simply changing wheels and tires has no effect on wheel alignment.
say my suspention is worn, what do you think I should look at to replace?
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2000 S-10 Blazer LT 4.3L EFI 4DR 4WD
Alpine CDA-9835 Headunit w/ iPod
Custom Wheels w/ Toyo 255/40/20
Custom Exhaust - 3" Chrome Outlet
All Clear Lights w/ L.E.D Bulbs
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  #6  
Old 03-12-2006, 06:37 PM
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Re: Hard Ride!

Starting with the input shaft to the steering gear, there is a "rag joint" coupler that connects the steering shaft to the gear box. Over time they dry rot and get sloppy. Next is sector shaft preload in the gear box itself. Mileage wears the gears where they mesh. There is an adjustment on top of the gear box for that adjustment. A jamb nut with an Allen head screw in the center of it is used for the adjustment. Next is the pitman arm, if it's loose, replace it. The center link, or relay rod as it's called sometimes, is next; if any connections to it are loose, replace them. The idler arm supports the passenger side of the steering linkage and if it’s loose, replace it. Inner and outer tie rods connect the center link to the steering knuckles, if any are loose, replace them. That takes care of steering linkage.

Suspension includes 4 ball joints, 4 control arms, 8 control arm bushings, and 4WD uses torsion bars with mounts at each end, and 2WD uses coil springs. Last but not least is the stabilizer bar, sometimes called a sway bar. Usually has two bushings attaching it to the frame, and end links that go from there to the lower control arms. A shop manual such as Chilton or Haynes gives specifications, along with diagnostic and replacement procedures.
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Old 03-12-2006, 10:57 PM
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Re: Hard Ride!

Quote:
Originally Posted by old_master
Starting with the input shaft to the steering gear, there is a "rag joint" coupler that connects the steering shaft to the gear box. Over time they dry rot and get sloppy. Next is sector shaft preload in the gear box itself. Mileage wears the gears where they mesh. There is an adjustment on top of the gear box for that adjustment. A jamb nut with an Allen head screw in the center of it is used for the adjustment. Next is the pitman arm, if it's loose, replace it. The center link, or relay rod as it's called sometimes, is next; if any connections to it are loose, replace them. The idler arm supports the passenger side of the steering linkage and if it’s loose, replace it. Inner and outer tie rods connect the center link to the steering knuckles, if any are loose, replace them. That takes care of steering linkage.

Suspension includes 4 ball joints, 4 control arms, 8 control arm bushings, and 4WD uses torsion bars with mounts at each end, and 2WD uses coil springs. Last but not least is the stabilizer bar, sometimes called a sway bar. Usually has two bushings attaching it to the frame, and end links that go from there to the lower control arms. A shop manual such as Chilton or Haynes gives specifications, along with diagnostic and replacement procedures.

I would also look into shocks that are somewhat tailor-made for the rim size and ride quality you look for. I know that there is nothing that is out there just like that but do some calling around and see what some good shops reccomend and go from there.

B.T.W.~~ Sweet ride , I love those rims.
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Old 03-12-2006, 11:04 PM
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Re: Hard Ride!

Have you looked into this thread yet?
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=531075

It won't give you a luxery car ride, but it might help the ride quality out a little
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  #9  
Old 03-14-2006, 01:41 PM
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Angry Re: Hard Ride!

Quote:
Originally Posted by OverBoardProject
Have you looked into this thread yet?
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=531075

It won't give you a luxery car ride, but it might help the ride quality out a little
The next time I have my tires off, I am definately going to give that a shot, but I think the problem is more sterring realated. Every time I turn the wheel hard to the left (while making a left turn) you heard a CLUNG. It only happens one time while turning, and I have no idea what this could be. Any ideas?
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2000 S-10 Blazer LT 4.3L EFI 4DR 4WD
Alpine CDA-9835 Headunit w/ iPod
Custom Wheels w/ Toyo 255/40/20
Custom Exhaust - 3" Chrome Outlet
All Clear Lights w/ L.E.D Bulbs
Silver Interior w/ Brushed Aluminum Trim Pieces

Check out my Blazer on CarDomain.com
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/856449
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  #10  
Old 03-14-2006, 08:07 PM
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Re: Hard Ride!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jergin01
The next time I have my tires off, I am definately going to give that a shot, but I think the problem is more sterring realated. Every time I turn the wheel hard to the left (while making a left turn) you heard a CLUNG. It only happens one time while turning, and I have no idea what this could be. Any ideas?
Ball joints tend to go bad on Blazers quite fequently. Check those out.
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  #11  
Old 03-14-2006, 10:21 PM
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Re: Hard Ride!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazinMlew
Ball joints tend to go bad on Blazers quite fequently. Check those out.
The sound is from the driver front wheel. The sound appears to be right under my feet as I drive, could this be the ball joints?
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2000 S-10 Blazer LT 4.3L EFI 4DR 4WD
Alpine CDA-9835 Headunit w/ iPod
Custom Wheels w/ Toyo 255/40/20
Custom Exhaust - 3" Chrome Outlet
All Clear Lights w/ L.E.D Bulbs
Silver Interior w/ Brushed Aluminum Trim Pieces

Check out my Blazer on CarDomain.com
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/856449
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