93 Ford Ranger positive battery cable-$235!!!!!

[warranty1]

Hello,

I recently posted a problem with my Ford Ranger (turn key, and only get the click - new relay, new starter, new batter). (thank you to those who have replied!). I have managed to narrow it down to the positive battery cable going to the relay. Well, I called the Ford dealership and was quoted a price of $235 for the unit (person at the parts department was shocked as well).

The current Ford positive cable assembly is one unit (why it is so expensive). The assembly contains two cables coming off of the battery connector (both are fused into the connector). One of these cables goes directly to the starter, while the other cable goes to the relay. At the relay, there is a plastic U shape piece which contains the cable from the battery (this is bolted to one relay post), the U shape piece also contains the other cable that goes to the starter (which is bolted to the second post). Both cables are fused into the U-shaped unit... If you follow this description, you can imagine a single cable assembly containing three seperate cables (1) battery-to-starter, 2) battery-to-one post of relay, 3) second post of relay-to-starter).

I need to replace the cable that goes from the battery to the relay. Because of this fused design (both at the battery, and at the relay), one can not easily just replace one of these cables (one needs to pay the 200-odd bucks and buy the entire assembly. Ok, my question (maybe obvious, but I am currently stuck away from an autoparts store so I can't look myself)...

Is there some sort of aftermarket battery connector that will accept the two cables (ie, cut the cable that goes to the starter at ford's connector and then clamp that cable, and the new cable into the new connector)?

My next hurdle will be to separate the old battery-to relay cable from that U shaped assembly at the relay (or just get rid of it entirely, and replace both cables at the relay).

Anyhow, aftermarket battery connector that will accept the two cables?

Thanks much,
Scott

[12Ounce]

I would bet "yes". This is where I would look up (phone up) an older employee in a NAPA store.

[sixt7mlbuguy]

Originally Posted by warranty1

Hello,

I recently posted a problem with my Ford Ranger (turn key, and only get the click - Scott

I am having the same problem with my 93 Ranger except that i used to get the click and now i dont even get a reading on my voltmeter... did you fix your problem? if so, could you tell me what i can do or what i can check to get my truck running again? thank you

[Escorts4ever]

Jessie James wore a mask and carried a gun!!!!!!!!!!!!!! With the items that are out there today I ams sure that a cable can be manufactured for a fraction of the cost. Solder, heat shrink tubing and a little creatitivity will prevail.

[Homer8270]

Originally Posted by warranty1

(turn key, and only get the click - new relay, new starter, new batter).

yes you can make your own cables. I have a 94 and just tap the starter with a hammer (found one for free) when ever i get the click. I replaced the starter but the click problem came back in a few months. replaced the battery, same deal. Ive never been stranded by the problem.

[warranty1]

Hi Homer,

Well.. tapping was effective for the original starter. I finally replaced it, and all was good for about a 1000 miles. Then, got the click (and tapping on the new starter didn't work). Finally found the problem. It was a simple fix. The spade connector on the wire running from the relay to starter was corroded. (replaced it, and all is fine). If you need to tap your starter.. then it is that time to replace it.

[RaccoonJoe]

Beginning with my demolition derby cars, I have always found a peice of 0 gauge welding cable to do the trick for a battery cable. This cable can be found at any local welding shop, usually for around $1 per foot. You may find that 0 gauge is too big for your needs, just get a smaller gauge, and you'll do just fine.

I am currently this same cable for the negative leads in my 87 Ranger (alternator got ahold of the cable, and sawed it in half), and I am also using it as a direct connection to the battery, bringing power into the cab for a stereo, amps, fog lights, fuel pump, brake lights, etc. If you're careful with the current and voltage (as always), you will have no problems with this solution. (and it's a lot cheaper, too)