1999 hitch in steering

[sb68]

I have been having this problem with my steering for quite a while. It started out mainly when it was very cold outside and would get better after driving for awhile, now it does it pretty much all the time. It has what i would describe as a hitch right around the 12o'clock position and when going straight down the road if you turn the wheel a slight amount in either direction there will be a hitch or a catch and then the wheel will jerk a little to get past that point. I had new struts and an alignment done about 2 months ago and the only thing that was worn at that point were the stabilizer links, but i don't really think that has anything to do with this problem. the right outer tie rod end started making a squealing noise, but i checked it and it didn't appear to be worn, so I've been using a needle gun to lubricate every now and then. I've decided to go ahead and replace the tie rod ends and the stabilizer links, but my question is, if this doesn't take care of the problem, has anyone ever run into anything like this and if so, could it be possible that it is the rack and pinion itself causing the issue, I don't really want to replace it unless i have to being it's about a 180.00 part. Also, could this be the ujoint in the steering column(I've never had to replace any before), or possibly a ball joint/control arm? Thanks for the help.

[LeSabre97mint]

Originally Posted by sb68

I have been having this problem with my steering for quite a while. It started out mainly when it was very cold outside and would get better after driving for awhile, now it does it pretty much all the time. It has what i would describe as a hitch right around the 12o'clock position and when going straight down the road if you turn the wheel a slight amount in either direction there will be a hitch or a catch and then the wheel will jerk a little to get past that point. I had new struts and an alignment done about 2 months ago and the only thing that was worn at that point were the stabilizer links, but i don't really think that has anything to do with this problem. the right outer tie rod end started making a squealing noise, but i checked it and it didn't appear to be worn, so I've been using a needle gun to lubricate every now and then. I've decided to go ahead and replace the tie rod ends and the stabilizer links, but my question is, if this doesn't take care of the problem, has anyone ever run into anything like this and if so, could it be possible that it is the rack and pinion itself causing the issue, I don't really want to replace it unless i have to being it's about a 180.00 part. Also, could this be the ujoint in the steering column(I've never had to replace any before), or possibly a ball joint/control arm? Thanks for the help.

Hello

My first thought is the rack. The reason why I say this what you said here:

"....hitch right around the 12o'clock position and when going straight down the road if you turn the wheel a slight amount in either direction there will be a hitch or a catch and then the wheel will jerk a little to get past that point. "

How many miles on your 99?

I don't think it's the U joint in the steering linkage. It wouldn't make that sound.

Regards

Dan

[sb68]

It has about 120,000. It has had this problem for awhile, but it's definately getting worse recently.

[12Ounce]

It's possibly the steering rack as being discussed ... they certainly can get worn spots in the "middle".

But I would first checkout/changeout the upper bearings and isolator on the strut assemblies ... high failure rate at 100k miles plus.

[sb68]

well, i tore into this over the weekend and I think that it is the strut bearings on both sides that are bad. I would have bet money that it was the rack just for the simple reason that i had the struts replaced not long ago and I assumed they would have checked the strut bearings at the same time. Guess I won't be going back to that shop again.

[12Ounce]

Unfortunately, most shops do the bare minimum. The bearing and isolator block should be changed anything the shock units are changed ... but add approx $50 (per side) to the job.