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#1
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Quality of Gunze Sangyo Products??
Yo!
so i'm gonna make a stupid order from japan... was wondering, how are the Gunze Sangyo products? their line of Mr. this and that is really catchy!! i'm looking at their putties, bottled plastic cement, rubbing compound , paints, etc... any info would be great... thanks. |
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#2
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Well about 10yrs ago when I last handled one they were awsome!
One of the best quality kits you could get. They used a very high quality plastic, and got very thin parts. Huge amounts of detial, and unlike a lot of manufactors at the time recessed rather than raised panel lines. I would assume they will be either just as good, or maybe better now.
__________________
Connecting the Auto Enthusiasts
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#3
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I've heard nothing but good about Gunze Sangyo acrylics and MR. Color (lacquers). Also, lots of people recommend their Mr. Surfacer line of primer/filler - goes on eggshell smooth, they say. But be careful as it is a "filler" so it may fill in small details if you're not careful.
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#4
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I have some Mr. Surfacer 500 and I love it for filling pin holes and little flubs. I like it better than super glue because it's easier to sand back flush when dry.
Last edited by Jay!; 07-01-2002 at 04:26 PM. |
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#5
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question while we're talking about gunze
whats the difference between the Mr. surfacer 500 and 1000?
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#6
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The size of the particles, ones thicker and ones thinner. Can't for the life of me remember which one's which, though
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#7
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i figured that much...LOL:hehehe::hehehe:... there must be a modeller on this forum that knows the difference
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#8
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Did some research on the web, 500 is thicker than 1000. 1000 is great airbrushed - fills in sanding scratches while drying realllllllly smooth.
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#9
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Mr. Surface is the ONLY liquid putty I use on my models...
check out my modified models in the gallery as well as searching the topic for "pkw1's models" on the search button to see my Mugen ITR modifed and Mr. Surfaced....
__________________
All projects stalled... Need to settle in on my new job, and don't have time to built models just yet. |
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#10
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None of my models is built without Gunze surfacer. It's that important for me. Here are typical applications.
Mr. Surfacer bottle: Fills scratches made during the preparation of the body, such as eliminating seam lines. Helps finding any sink marks or manufacturing imperfections. Mr. Surfacer spray: Fills scratches, creates an even surface, helps paint adhere well. White Surfacer: Very opaque, and it hides the color of plastic well. Helps you paint light color, such as white or yellow on the body molded in dark color. The number represents how rough or smooth just like sand papers; higher number is finer. I think they have 500, 1000, 1200 in either bottle, spray or both. Some people prefer airbrushing the bottled surfacer for finer surface than its spray can. (I'm too lazy to use the airbrush for priming, so I simply apply light coats by the can.) |
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#11
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Quote:
![]() Seriously, I love the stuff. It's really easy to work with. Now I can't say much about Mr. Mark Softer or Mr. Retarder (Mild). Those guys sound weird to me... :hehehe:
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#12
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So what is recommended level for removing seam lines and so forth? 1000 good? so when you apply this stuff, can you brush it on from the bottle form just to check for imperfections and so forth?
how does the Surfacer react with Automotive Lacquers? Do acrylics adhere well to Mr. Surfacer? |
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#13
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I'm far from precise with it. I glob it on with a toothpick then sand it back down when it's dry.
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#14
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I always laugh at Mr. Mild Retarder..
Reminds me of a joke I read at RMS.. "When you airbrush Mr. Surfacer, always use a respirator and airbrush in a well ventilated area, or you may act like you used Mr. Mild Retarder instead!!" |
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#15
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So
is Mr. Surfacer a primer than? or do i want to get some Tamiya Primer to go with it?? also what do you look for in a good primer? |
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