removing the head

buckygoldstien12 · #1 02-28-2006, 12:15 PM

i will be removing the head to inspect the head and block for cracks and warping. i think i might have blown a head gasket so i wont know untill i pull the head. while the head is off i will take it to a machine shop and getting new valve seals and getting it cleaned and fixing any problems with it. while its off what can i clean the combustion chambers with to get the carbon and grime out of it? ive heard carb cleaner is the best bet is this true? i will also be dropping the oil pan to clean it out and also while its droped see if i can inspect it for bearing damage. is a haynes repair manual got all the tourqe settings? thanks for the help

dksob81 · #2 02-28-2006, 05:55 PM

Yes the haynes manual does have all the Torque Specs. You could check the for a blown head gasket and many other engine problem with a simple compression test, but the best way to clean the carbon from the valves and pistons would be to remove them and have them cleaned. Unfortunately Carb Cleaner is not gonna do the trick, carbon build up on the valves and pistons is very hard and carb cleaner will not do the trick.

neon_rt · #3 02-28-2006, 06:21 PM

If you remove the head, get new head bolts, the head bolts are "stretch bolts" and can not be reused (unless you like to change the head gasket over and over until you BUY NEW BOLTS).

buckygoldstien12 · #4 03-01-2006, 02:20 PM

i got done taking the head off the jeep. did not even need the repair manual. it said to completly remeove the power steering i was like haha fuck that ill move it out of the way!!!!! it is so fucking easy to remove a head in a inline 6. only took 2 1/2 hours. so i took the valve cover off and i was shocked. the oil caking up was worse then i thought. i took pics of it and ill get them in a few days ill post them. the valve springs were covered in a think layer of dried oil and we had to chizel it out to get to the other head bolts. so we got the head off and the head gasket had a split in the edge but either it blew there or ripped taking it out. no cracks in the head or the block. it was very strange that the clyinder walls were perfect. no scaring or anything. the pistons looked better then i thought. they were not black they were light grey. so im taking the head, intake manifold, and throttle body to get cleaned. im getting new valve seals and getting what ever else it needs to stop the oil consumption. ive got oil caked up really thick in the oil block passages. how can i get most of that out? i thought to spray in degreeser in it because im dropping the oil pan to because if the valves looks that bad then i know it could be just as bad. how can i clean most of the oil out without removing the block?

dksob81 · #5 03-01-2006, 04:20 PM

Brake Parts cleaner should do the trick.

buckygoldstien12 · #6 03-01-2006, 09:11 PM

im gonna drain the oil pan tomarrow. can i just spay a degreeser in every passage to have it drain to the oil pan and then take the pan off and clean it? or use brake part cleaner

dksob81 · #7 03-02-2006, 07:01 PM

You can use ENGINE DEGREASER but I personally have found that BRAKE PARTS CLEANER works better.

xj31 · #8 03-05-2006, 04:46 PM

All of this caked up oil you were chiseling is called sludge.Usually you get that if you don't change oil often enough.If you are using a lot of oil,the sludge can be tha reason.If the drain holes are clogged then oil stays up in top[ of the head and then it gets sucked into the motor by the pcv system.Another thing that can cause sludge to build up is if your t-stat is stuck open and the motor stays too cold. also the bolts are not stretch bolts.They should be reusable but inspect them first

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