tranny fluid change- how to????

[jimmyv-21]

so i need to change my tranny fluid. does anyone have an easy little "how- to" for this process? also, where do i get the filter and gasket? the car is an 01 gt 3.8- also, what are the torq specs for the bolts? thanks

[BNaylor]

Tranny oil pan bolts torque = 120 inch lbs. Bolt head = 10mm.

You don't normally need a new gasket re-use the old one if it is not damaged or tranny oil is leaking.

On the screen filter use an AC Delco TF304, 252138256. The filter kit will come with a rubber seal for the screen filter.

Use good quality Dextron-III like Castrol. You will need approximately 7.5 quarts of ATF on a pan drop.

[ern2112]

Originally Posted by jimmyv-21

so i need to change my tranny fluid. does anyone have an easy little "how- to" for this process? also, where do i get the filter and gasket? the car is an 01 gt 3.8- also, what are the torq specs for the bolts? thanks

Jimmy,


NAPA should have the gasket and filter....I pulled the install process from my chilton manual for you




1. The fluid should be drained when warm so contaminants are in suspension in the transaxle fluid.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on safety stands.
3. Place a suitable drain pan under the transaxle fluid pan.
4. There is no drain plug for changing the transaxle fluid (but...you can add one!!!!), so fluid change on most automatics is messy. Draining the fluid involves loosening some bolts, removing others, and, after the pan is loosened, letting the fluid run out from the joint between the pan and gasket and the transaxle body. Use a drain pan with a large enough opening to accommodate draining the fluid from a large section of the pan.
5. There are twenty oil pan bolts. Loosen and remove only the bolts from the front and sides of the pan.
6. Loosen the rear bolts about four turns.
Remove the bolts from the front and sides of the pan
Tap or pry the pan loose, then allow the fluid to drain completely
After all the fluid has drained, unfasten the remaining bolts and remove the transaxle fluid pan
Remove the pan magnet and inspect it for metal chips, which may indicate excessive wear
Carefully remove the pan gasket. Some late-model pans use a steel-core gasket, which, if in good condition, can be reused
Use a long-neck funnel to add fluid through the automatic transaxle dipstick tube


WARNING
Do not pry between the oil pan and the aluminum transaxle case. A prying tool could mark, scratch or gouge the gasket sealing rail making it impossible for the replacement gasket to provide a satisfactory seal.

7. Lightly tap the pan with a rubber mallet to loosen and allow the fluid to drain.
8. Remove the remaining bolts, the pan and the gasket. Hold the pan level to keep a small amount of fluid in the bottom. This allows you to check the sediments in the pan for contaminants. Remove the pan and set aside.
9. The transaxle oil filter has a small neck that is a press-fit into the transaxle case. It should pull straight out. A little careful prying may be required. The rubber grommet that accepts the neck on the filter will likely remain in the transaxle case. Use a small screwdriver to carefully remove the seal. Use care not to damage the case sealing surface.
10. Inside the pan should be a small magnet. Inspect the oil pan magnet for small bits of steel. The factory places the magnet here to trap stray metal particles. Excessive amounts of steel shavings indicate internal transmission damage. A small amount of sediment in the pan is normal as the friction elements wear.
11. If desired, use side cutters to open up the transaxle oil filter assembly by cutting or prying the metal crimping away from the top of the filter and by pulling the filter apart. Inspect the filter for excessive amounts of the following: clutch plate assembly fiber material, indicating clutch distress; bronze slivers, indicating bushing wear; steel particles, indicating inter\nal transaxle wear.

To install:

12. Clean all parts well. Clean all traces of old gasket off of the oil pan gasket rail as well as the sealing surface on the transaxle. Use care not to damage the sealing surface on either area.
13. Inspect the oil pan for damage to the sealing surface and dents or cracks in the pan.
14. If the oil filter seal came out of the case, install it using a socket as a driver. Gently tap in with a plastic mallet. Using the same plastic mallet, gently tap the filter neck in place.
15. The design of the steel-core factory gasket is such that it may be reusable, if not bent or otherwise damaged. Note that most replacement transaxle oil filters come with a new gasket. Lay the oil pan gasket on the pan and install the pan to the case. Normally, no sealer is used. Start a few bolts at the ends of the pan to hold it and to keep the gasket from moving out of position. Install all 20 bolts and tighten to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm). Do not overtighten or the gasket could be squeezed out of position and/or the bolt threads in the aluminum transaxle case could be damaged.
16. Lower the vehicle to the floor.
17. To refill the transaxle from just a bottom pan removal, 7.4 quarts of DEXRON® IIE or DEXRON® III will be required. Use a funnel to reach the filler/dipstick tube. Use care not to spill fluid in the engine compartment.
18. Check for leaks.

[ern2112]

Bob beat me to the punch.......and...I agree....no need for new gasket if it is in good shape

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by ern2112

Bob beat me to the punch.......and...I agree....no need for new gasket if it is in good shape

Good job Ernie. I was too tired to write up the procedure I do. So I just gave him pertinent info. I've got a drain bolt on my tranny pan on my GTP so it's easier. It is an aftermarket extra capacity, cooling fins. After the fluid is out I remove the pan and change the screen filter out.

[ern2112]

Thanks Bob......I cheated...pasted it!! Yep....I have a drain plug for mine waiting to be installed when I get the new tranny......

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by ern2112

Install all 20 bolts and tighten to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm). Do not overtighten or the gasket could be squeezed out of position and/or the bolt threads in the aluminum transaxle case could be damaged.

Ernie, there is an error in the procedure posted. The torque value above is incorrect.

The proper value is 120 inch-lbs or 12 ft-lbs. I confirmed this through the GM service manual and my ATSG service manual specifically for the 4T65E autotransaxle.

[ern2112]

Cool Bob......I saw that and sorta thought that your info was correct (it ALWAYS is!!!) Thanks for pointing that out....cause I have been going a little light on my pan bolts

By the way....when you sending me a copy of that 600.00 manual set anyway? LOL I got the cheapy for 20 bucks.....kinda like a happy meal instead of a quarter pounder ...huh? Hehehehehe

[SNKPWR]

120 inch-lbs or 12 ft-lbs.

ummmm.....120 in-lb does not equal 12 ft-lb FYI

120 in-lb = 10 ft-lb
144 in-lb = 12 ft-lb

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by SNKPWR

ummmm.....120 in-lb does not equal 12 ft-lb FYI

120 in-lb = 10 ft-lb
144 in-lb = 12 ft-lb

I stand corrected on the ft-lbs, however, the 120 in-lbs is ABSOLUTELY correct. Didn't have my morning coffee. I use an inch-lb torque wrench on the tranny pan bolts anyways. It is more accurate.

[ern2112]

Originally Posted by bnaylor3400

I stand corrected on the ft-lbs, however, the 120 in-lbs is ABSOLUTELY correct. Didn't have my morning coffee. I use an inch-lb torque wrench on the tranny pan bolts anyways. It is more accurate.

We knew what ya meant Bob. See what kinda trouble I stir up for posting the wrong info?? Hehehehe

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by ern2112

We knew what ya meant Bob. See what kinda trouble I stir up for posting the wrong info?? Hehehehe

Not a problem Ernie. We all make mistakes including me.

Important thing is to give the person with the problem the help requested or a reasonable answer. I noticed not too many people jumped in on this thread to weigh-in or provide constructive assistance from date/time posted other than you or me. One thing I know for sure he's got all the info he needs now to get the job done. Now it is up to him.

[ern2112]

Originally Posted by bnaylor3400

Not a problem Ernie. We all make mistakes including me.

Important thing is to give the person with the problem the help requested or a reasonable answer. I noticed not too many people jumped in on this thread to weigh-in or provide constructive assistance from date/time posted other than you or me. One thing I know for sure he's got all the info he needs now to get the job done. Now it is up to him.

Agreed

[SNKPWR]

Originally Posted by bnaylor3400

Not a problem Ernie. We all make mistakes including me.

Important thing is to give the person with the problem the help requested or a reasonable answer. I noticed not too many people jumped in on this thread to weigh-in or provide constructive assistance from date/time posted other than you or me. One thing I know for sure he's got all the info he needs now to get the job done. Now it is up to him.

i just wanted to make sure he didn't over-tighten the bolts by 20%...LOL

[jimmyv-21]

thanks guys for the info. i am headed to houston this weekend, will do the atf change when i get back.