'98 Rodeo 3.2V6 Tranny Issues

[Lakeshow23]

I rarely post, but I have something new to discuss.

My '98 Rodeo LS, with the 3.2 V6 has a great running engine... on *really* long trips the temp gauge will exceed the halfway point but go back down to normal once I start accelerating with the heater on. I suspect that at 125,000 miles, the stock water pump and thermostat should be changed.

Other than that, the engine runs perfect, but the automatic transmission sputters like crazy if I accelerate from 0-20mph at like half throttle. When cold, this is almost 100% guaranteed to happen, sometimes so badly that it slams itself into gear when the rpms jump up to like 3,000 or more rpms before acceleration response. Which, of course, causes the tires to chirp and the car to feel as if it just kicked me from under the seat. Also, the 4wheel drive doesn't engage at all... the 4wheel icon blinks when I hit the 4WD button. I hear motion, but it refuses to engage. But the tranny runs perfect once past the sputtering stage of 0-20mph, perfect on the highway.

Is this a common problem, and what is the problem here? I am fearing an expensive repair or replacement of the transmission, but I'm hoping to not get ripped off like people who know nothing about Isuzus. Is my Isuzu tranny in big trouble... or is there an easy fix?

[amigo-2k]

The reasons for a jumpy tranny are typically low or dirty fluid (they like 30k changes) or a dirty range selector.

See the FAQ's for more info.

[Ramblin Fever]

Don't know enough - thank goodness - about tranny problems on the 4L30-E. What I can tell you is they do NOT like to be ran low on fluid, nor do they like inconsistent fluid changes. With this tranny, a partial fluid swap out should occur every 10-15k, or total fluid swap out every 25-30k for a good long life.

Not sure what your maintenance history is on that tranny.

As for your original thermostat and water pump - get em out soon. When you do the waterpump make certain to do the timing belt and tensioner as well, as you're right there anyway, and "typically" (not in my case however) the timing belt tensioner will start to go before the waterpump. The weakest point in that whole area is the tensioner.

My original water pump, timing belt and tensior were changed out at 60k (preventative maintenance, not an actual problem); my original thermostat came out at 118k as precautionary measure.

I have however, about 5yrs/95k miles on the 2nd OEM waterpump and as of yesterday it gave up the ghost; some people here have said waterpump's typically last into the 100k range and/or 7-9yrs.

I'm not far from it, but the timing couldn't have been worse - I've been quoted $900 for water pump, tensioner, belt, and new crankshaft, camshaft seals from an Import Mechanic who charges $15 less per hour for labor then the dealership does.

I'm personally not going to push a waterpump past 85k anymore - yes, I'm kicking myself as I suspected it was getting up there, but I thought I could push it til summer. Didn't expect to have to "push" it into the garage, have it sit for a month then call a tow truck, on an otherwise perfectly running vehicle.

[rodeo02]

The temp gauge needle has indicated in the middle after about 5min of driving since my 2002 was new. Regardless of ambient temps or driving conditions it stays there. If your engine comes up to temp (and doesnt overheat), you've got heat and no coolant leaks your cooling system is fine. Read up on the trans range sensor for the clunky shifts. PRND32L lights on the dash will go crazy if the range sensor is the culpret. No 4x4 means your electric SOTF actuator is stuck. They tend to hold moisture & corrode on the inside. You need to exersize the 4x4 by turning in on/off atleast once a month to prevent SOTF actuator problems. All this is in Amigo-2K's frequently asked questions.

G/luck
Joel

[Lakeshow23]

Originally Posted by rodeo02

The temp gauge needle has indicated in the middle after about 5min of driving since my 2002 was new. Regardless of ambient temps or driving conditions it stays there. If your engine comes up to temp (and doesnt overheat), you've got heat and no coolant leaks your cooling system is fine. Read up on the trans range sensor for the clunky shifts. PRND32L lights on the dash will go crazy if the range sensor is the culpret. No 4x4 means your electric SOTF actuator is stuck. They tend to hold moisture & corrode on the inside. You need to exersize the 4x4 by turning in on/off atleast once a month to prevent SOTF actuator problems. All this is in Amigo-2K's frequently asked questions.

G/luck
Joel

Thanks for the response. The PRND32L lights on the dash are fine, they don't go crazy at all. Whatever gear I have selected, is the gear the dash lights up. So perhaps I'm looking at more problems than just the sensor.

As for the tranny, the car drives absolutely wonderfully once it passes the sputtering and tire chirping stage from any point between 0 and 20 mph. The tranny is fine after that, which is why I'm optimistic and not fearing the worst. But I know if I drop it off at a shop, they'll give me some hardcore estimates. I'll check the fluid level, but I think I'm going to wait until next weekend, so I can get some Isuzu fluid from an Isuzu dealer.

Other issues with the truck are the rear wiper gets stuck at times, and, and, that's about all I think.

Thanks to all participants in my thread...

[amigo-2k]

what is the maintanace history on on the tranny?

the wiper problem is a known problem (there is a 5 dollar chip that needs to be replaced) See the faqs.

[amigo-2k]

what is the maintanace history on on the tranny?

the wiper problem is a known problem (there is a 5 dollar chip that needs to be replaced) See the faqs.

[Lakeshow23]

Originally Posted by amigo-2k

what is the maintanace history on on the tranny?

the wiper problem is a known problem (there is a 5 dollar chip that needs to be replaced) See the faqs.

I don't know. I purchased this thing used, for a good price. The previous owner kept recommending that I flush it, but he didn't know what the remedy is. For what I paid though, I can't complain too much. I'll check the faq for the wiper fix, but I just can't get over the fact that this tranny shifts just fine once up to speed. If I lightly accelerate, the tranny doesn't sputter and skip. But the sputtering, skipping, and tire chirping is horrendous if I really hit the gas on takeoff.

For general info, I am a true ISUZU enthusiast. I own two Isuzu Impulse RS awd turbo models... they're good fun. I also own a '92 Isuzu Impulse XS. Also fun. Now a Rodeo.

[Ramblin Fever]

If the history of fluid changeouts on the tranny is unknown - do NOT flush it, you could send debris through the torque convertor and send it to an early grave.

I'd drop the pan, change out the filter, clean the pan and add new fluid. Then every 10k miles, do a partial drain/refill.

[Lakeshow23]

You know, it just occurred to me that I cannot accurately check the fluid level of the tranny. The car isn't tall/elevated enough off the ground, for me to crawl under there are work on the tranny. And if I lift the vehicle, I have to either lift the front end onto ramps or via jackstands, which means that any fluid level readings would be manipulated by the diagonal position.

Unless, for the first time in my history, I place the front end onto ramps. While the front end is on ramps, I lift the rear end and place onto jackstands. Hmm...

[surferfletch]

I can do it in the driveway (6', 165#), but it's a lot easier in the drainage swale in the front yard!

[Lakeshow23]

Originally Posted by surferfletch

I can do it in the driveway (6', 165#), but it's a lot easier in the drainage swale in the front yard!

I hope your tranny fluid is at least environmentally friendly.

[surferfletch]

I didn't say I drain the fluid onto the ground. It gives more clearance under the vehicle to park it in the line of the swale. This is an Earth friendly technique!

[Lakeshow23]

Update:

All the shuddering and vibrations, and wheel locking are occurring on the rear end. So either the abs is interrupting my accleration or the transfer case is causing the rear differential to bind up... or the rear differential itself is damaged. Remember, I mentioned that the 4wd feature was acting strange and sometimes wouldn't engage.

I've gotta look into the SOTF actuator. It appears to me that rodeo02 is a Rodeo enthusiast, or someone who has had the same problems in the past...?

[Lakeshow23]

The FAQ does not describe the symptoms this car is giving me.