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#1
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Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
Hi again guys. Okay, on my '84 Caprice Classic (305 4BBL Q-Jet/700-R4) I've recently been getting a tan colored foamy substance in my oil (again.... i posted about this problem before, but it went away, but now its back again, and much worse). I'm assuiming its antifreeze, my father keeps trying to tell me its just condensation in the crank case, and theres also the possibility of gasoline. So this time I've posted some pictures of the dipstick to hopfully get a more accurate guess as to what it really is so I dont tear apart my engine for nothing. Thanks in advance! Heres the pictures:
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#2
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
Well, if you take it for a long drive (think about 2 hours) it would evaporate any water in the oil. If it still looks like that after the drive, then the condensation can be ruled out. The only time condensation should ever end up in your oil is if it never warms up completly when you drive the car.
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1996 BMW 318i Convertible 1989 Caprice Brougham - 305 V8, TH-2004r - FOR SOLD!!! |
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#3
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
Change the PCV and oil see if that helps. A bad PCV can cause condensation problems to get bad fast. With that much of a mess I would look at doing an oil analysis you should be able to find someplace somewhat local and for $15-20 they can tell you for sure wether it is antifreeze or what.
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#4
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
Can't see the pics. But I'm with 96capricemgr on this one. Also, if you're taking lots of short drives this can occur in some engines. Get the thing out on the highway for an hour or so drive it you can too....
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CD 1991 W41 #142 1989 Caprice 9C1 1997 C1500 1997 Bonnie SE 1998 Olds 98 LS Recently updated: http://forums.b-body.org |
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#5
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
hows your gas mileage doing?
i would suggest a clean oil change and then checking the problem. see how long it takes for this to occur. |
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#6
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
That's a little more than condensation, there's beaded water on that stick. I don't know, do a compression check on the engine and see what you get.
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1988 9C1 - Modified LM1 @ 275HP/350TQ - TH700R4 - 3.08 8.5" Disc Rear - see it at http://www.silicon212.org/9c1! 2005 Crown Vic P71 - former AZ DPS - 4.6 liters of pure creamy slothness! 1967 El Camino L79/M20 old school asphalt raper Remember - a government that is strong enough to give you everything you need, is also strong enough to take everything you have. |
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#7
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
OK the pics are visible today, The pics didn't show yesterday and I was imagining just crap on the upper parts of the dipstick like are often found in the oil fill cap. I would do the oil analysis and not drive it till you get the results.
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#8
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
Well, I can't exactly not drive the car as its my only source of transportation. As for gas mileage, I'm actually getting pretty decent mileage (calculated average of about 19 - 20 MPG which is up from its usual 17 - 18 MPG). I run it on high octane if that makes any difference. I do make many short drives (usually only about 10-25 minutes each). Sometime possibly tomorrow I'll take a drive somewhere for about an hour and see what that'll do. Maybe I can also find a place that'll do an oil analysis. This weekend I'll try to get around to a compression test, but that'll be a little iffy. Thanks for the input guys, I really do appreciate it. I'll keep everyone updated as to anything that changes. Thanks again!
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#9
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
i just watched a special on vehichle performances ..
high octane is a waste for you and i. only certain vehichles benefit from it and that is when you get on the gas hard ... save your money ... |
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#10
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
The only way that high octane would do anything for you is if your engine knocks excessively with the timing set correctly. If it's not, then high octane is a waste of money. It doesn't contain any additional BTUs than standard low-octane gasoline. Octane is a measurement of a gasoline's volatility - the higher the octane, the lower the volatility - hence the propensity to reduce knocks with higher octane. BTUs, or British Thermal Units, is the standard measurement of the energy content of a particular fuel, the higher the rating, the greater the energy content per given unit of measure. Higher BTU rated gasoline will give you better economy over lower measurements. BTW, Xtreme Barton, not to start a flamewar or anything, but what's up with the bin Laden crap?
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1988 9C1 - Modified LM1 @ 275HP/350TQ - TH700R4 - 3.08 8.5" Disc Rear - see it at http://www.silicon212.org/9c1! 2005 Crown Vic P71 - former AZ DPS - 4.6 liters of pure creamy slothness! 1967 El Camino L79/M20 old school asphalt raper Remember - a government that is strong enough to give you everything you need, is also strong enough to take everything you have. |
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#11
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
its ok.. if you want to discuss it via PM thats cool if you really wanna know..
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#12
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
Alright I changed the oil, and it came back by the end of the week, so today I was on the express way and I remembered what Cyrix had said about taking it for a long drive, well I didnt have that long of a drive to take (maybe 25 minutes) so I gently brought the car up to a higher speed 65.....75.....85.... then I dunno, the speedometer only goes to 85, and the needle was at the area that said "Automatic Overdrive" so I'd assume well over 100 - 110 mph. I kept it there for about 3-4 minutes then let it back down to 85, and held it there for the rest of the drive home. When I did get home though, the oil was clean. No sign of the foamy crap at all. Any thoughts?
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#13
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
You got a problem with your PCV system then I think. That blast you did burned off the condensation that was there in the crankcase. Does this car sit outside? You mentioned that you make short trips I think. How short are your drives.
Take the PCV vavle out of the valve cover. Place your thumb over the opening in the valve. It should get sucked up to the PCV vavle. If not, you have a plugged line. Pull the whole vacuum line off and flush it with carb cleaner. Also, get a q-tip or something similar and check the port where it plugs into on your car. I'd bet something is plugged up at that point.
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CD 1991 W41 #142 1989 Caprice 9C1 1997 C1500 1997 Bonnie SE 1998 Olds 98 LS Recently updated: http://forums.b-body.org |
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#14
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
That thing should NOT be producing that much condensation. Even if you live in the tropics with a cold spell, there shouldn't ever be that much condensation.
The more you drive it like that, the more you're damaging your bearings. It's your engine, you can do with it what you want, but you're killing it. That is not condensation. That's a leak. Check your cooling system level. How long does it take to come back (the water)?
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1988 9C1 - Modified LM1 @ 275HP/350TQ - TH700R4 - 3.08 8.5" Disc Rear - see it at http://www.silicon212.org/9c1! 2005 Crown Vic P71 - former AZ DPS - 4.6 liters of pure creamy slothness! 1967 El Camino L79/M20 old school asphalt raper Remember - a government that is strong enough to give you everything you need, is also strong enough to take everything you have. |
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#15
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Re: Old Subject, New Pictures: Bad Oil
Short trips are a 10 minute drive in the morning and then back home in the afternoon. As for silicon's question, it takes about a week for the foam (water) to come back... sometimes more.
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