Z28 won't run up

[89iroctpi5.7]

Im going to look at a 89 iroc tpi 350 with 95000 orig miles. Has been sitting for a year and now it will start right up but want put out any power. (drives up to 20mph)Im not real familar with tune port, but am inclined and would like to buy this car.Should I stay away or is it probaly minor? thanks

[malletslinger]

So tell me more, why has it been sitting for a year? Did they stop driving it because it was having this problem or is the problem happening because it was sitting for a year?
Is the fuel old or is it all fresh?
Is the check engine light on?

[malletslinger]

*Make shure there is no water in the oil.
*Check for excessive play in the distributor shaft.
*Check the cylinder compression pressures(are they low or uneven?)...test the pressures with a compression tester, which will tetect leaking valves and/or blown head gasket.
*Check tranny fluid, it should be red. If it is dark, dirty, and/or smells burnt then take it to a tranny shop and have them drop the pan and quickly inspect the trannys condition.
These are the major things that need to be checked BEFORE you buy the car. If the owner(s) is weary about you checking these things, make shure they know you will not buy it if you cant check these things first.
If these things check out, then the problem is probably minor. What are they asking for it?

[malletslinger]

If you get the car, don’t spend all your money on it, you will need to keep in mind that even if all the things I mentioned before check out ok, you still need to do the following work as preventative-/overdue-maintenance. You can do all or most of these things yourself and save $$$.
You will need to change: oil+filter, tranny fluid+filter, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and plug wires(up to you).
You will also need to flush/change: break fluid, power steering fluid, and coolant.
Add a bottle of fuel system cleaner to a full tank of gas and check the timing and adjust if needed.
Also ask the owner if the water/coolant pump is the original or if it has been changed? If it is the original, then you should change it.
By the time you have finished all of the maintenance I mentioned above, your problem will probably be gone. And even if it isn’t, there would only be a couple more possible causes. (Again, this is only true if all the things I mentioned in my previous post are ok)

If you already have all the tools (filter wrench, timing light, etc) and do all the work yourself, then it will probably cost around $150. (water pump excluded)

[89iroctpi5.7]

I have not got out to drive it yet, just looked at it sitting. He claims it ran great. this guy has 5 old muscle cars and trucks. its just not his favorite. It has been sitting 7 or 8 months. Before that it didnt get drove aqlot either though he said theyd just freshin up the gas and go. hes askin 3000. Ill let yall know more latter this week. thanks for takin intrest

[97cavalier]

$3,000 is a little high, i would try to get him down some.

[malletslinger]

Well if the body(no dings, dents, or damage) and interior are nice(no sun damage, rips, or stains), the trans is in good shape, good tires, and good paint, then I would say that isnt too high if it was running right.

[89iroctpi5.7]

alright boys I bought the car today. $2700 the lowest hed go. It runs good as long as the mass air is disconnected. Still is tempermental though. Interior is jamm up body is near perfect the usual the bottom of the nose is beat up and the rear bumper is scrathed but paint is orig and glossy. Its been sitting for a week and at first start not any smoke at all first for me and an old chevy.The mileage checks out 95000 orig and the steering is tight the trans shifts good tires are good. I just really wanted an iroc with the 5.7 tpi Correct me if wrong but this is a 4 bolt main roller motor in this car. first retrieve codes fo cpu then all new fluids and lube from front to back.

[AFI 05]

the mileage could be wrong for all you know, it could have 195,000 cause the thing goes up to 99,999 doesnt it? also, to keep it running like a champ or to make it run like a champ, change/ thoroughlly check sensors.. my car was sitting for a year and was running like shit, changed TPS, 02, coolant temp sensor and the car got up to ~140mph if i wanted it to. Not that I do that often. but yeah man, bring it back to life and dont use anything less than 89 octane. i always use premium though.. these cars are a blast to drive and after a paint job, man do they turn heads.

[malletslinger]

$2700?..Haha!!! That was exactly the price I was thinking you should buy it for, seriously! Good jub and sounds like a great buy
I really was thinking that 2700 would be good because you need to leave yourself atleast $300 to fix the little problems when you first get a car...major tune-up and service/flush everything, not to mention replacing any bad sensors or relays.

[malletslinger]

When you check the codes, at least one of the following codes will come up: 33, 34, and 36...but before you go changing your MAF sensor, have your MAF relay/burn off relay checked first. Mabe you will get lucky, but if not, try getting a used MAF relay at a salvage yard or on ebay before you spend big $$$ on reman. one. They pop up on ebay all the time.

[malletslinger]

Also, go buy a Haynes Manual, can come in very handy

[Morley]

Disconnect the battery for a minute then reconnect. Make sure the MAF is plugged in and start the car, drive it a little and see if the check engine light comes on. If it does, pull the codes. If you get code 33, 34 or 36, replace the MAF power AND burn off relays. If no codes, replace the relays anyway (cost about $17 each). If that still dosen't fix the running problem, get a remanufactured MAF from your local parts store (about $150 + core charge).

[89iroctpi5.7]

will start work on car thurs, ran codes got 33 and 36 can anyone tell me where are the relays for the maf the guy said he had replaced the maf sensor but it didnt fix the problem so he thought it was a bad off the shelf part.

[wrightz28]

S/B driver's side firewall by the brake booster, 3 of them, one is the f/p, usually in the middle.