New Suspension Lift

[sklater]

Okay, I've been thinking about putting a new lift on my 98 cherokee. 4wd. I found this really good site to get them, not sure if i'm going with the 3.5 or the 4.5 lift. Right now I've got like a 2 inch lift i think, i do have 31's on them, but they rub. The site for the lifts is

http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scri...?idCategory=62

I was just wondering what tools would be necessary to do such a thing. I have a buddy who is going to help me with it, all i really have is a mechanics tool set, and a jack, not a stock one, but one jack. I know that he has some tools, he has worked on cars aquite some time. Just wanted to know what I would need, and how much you think they would cost.

[dave92cherokee]

If you're looking to lift your cherokee some then check out this site as the kits they have are cheaper than what you're looking for and beter quality. Go to the suspension link and they have the trailblazer lift kits and the budget lift kits. When I get my refund in I plan on getting 5" trailblazer lift kit.

http://www.rocky-road.com/cherokee.html

As far as the tools you will need get a good socket set, good wrench set, torque wrench, coil spring compressors for easier removal of front springs, tie rod end seperator, ball joint seperator, grease gun and tube of grease, which will get you started if you get into the work and realize you need a special tool then most speciality tools can be rented from autozone for a deposit.

[Ray H]

Those are good prices for Rubicon Express.
Right now, RE is considered top notch in the short arm lift market. There are other companies coming up in long arm technology, but for short arms, you cant do much better than RE.
As far as tools. Complete socket and wrenches, a hydraulic floor jack with plenty of lift height, a couple tall jackstands, a can of PB Blaster. That will get the basic lift components on. You may run into problems with shock or spring bolt rust, you'll just have to deal with that as it comes. Spray a liberal amount of PB Blaster onto all fasteners for days before you do the lift, this will help alot with stuck nuts and bolts.
You will then need to do a frontend alignment and probably a slip yoke eliminator and CV driveshaft after the lift is on. These things will require other tools if you do them yourself.
Something to think about, the RE lifts tend to sit higher than advertised. For example, REs 3.5 lift generally net 4"-5" right after install and ramain at about 4" even after they settle in. Unless you are planning on running 33" tires, I would stick with the 3.5 lift.
If you dont want to rub, you need to address bumpstops. If your suspension is flexing unrestricted as it should, doesnt matter how high the lift is, any tire bigger than 30s or 31s will rub if you disconnect the swaybars. Thats something alot of people dont understand. They keep going higher and higher to avoid rubbing and if theyve got a good flexy suspension, all they really need is extended bumpstops.

[sklater]

thanks, i'm probably going to wait until summer when I've got more money. thanks for the input though. Also, where it rubs is not on the fenders or bumpers, but rather on the frame itself, whenever i make a sharp turn it rubs. YOu can see where the frame is polished smooth in the contact area.

[Ray H]

Originally Posted by sklater

thanks, i'm probably going to wait until summer when I've got more money. thanks for the input though. Also, where it rubs is not on the fenders or bumpers, but rather on the frame itself, whenever i make a sharp turn it rubs. YOu can see where the frame is polished smooth in the contact area.

Thats a cheap and easy fix.
crawl under the frontend. You will see what looks like a bolt on the bottom part of the steering knuckle. Thats the steering stop. There is one on each side of the axle. You can remove these bolts and install a washer or two under them to extend them a little. That will keep your tires from rubbing either the frame or lower control arms.