95 blazer fuel issues

[Jon Teeter]

Can someone please help me?My 95 s10 4x4 blazer with a 4.3 vortec that will barely run(if it starts at all).I have narrowed it down to a fuel issue.I dont have any pressure at the port on the rail .I can hear the pump running and it sounds the same as it always has and I replaced the fuel filter thinking I may get lucky.This didnt solve my problem even though I could barely blow through the filter.I would truely appreciate any advise because I dont have a garage and and Im not having fun in all the snow and cold weather.thanks

[wolfox]

I am in your same boat at the moment. I have lost the fuel pump. I can hear it run, but it only makes a very weak pressure - not nearly enough to get it started. The only advice I can give is that if you're mechanically inclined, it still would do you good to pick up a Haynes or Chilton's book on the truck. For my '95 4-door 4x4, the fuel pump, the associated o-rings pack and a new strainer sock will run me a cool $178.99 from a local GM/AC-Delco parts dealership near my house. What vexes me right now is that as of a day before the pump failed, I had just topped off the tank. I do not know what I am going to do with 19+ gallons of fresh gas. I am thinking of buying a 5 gallon fuel jug and giving away gas to the neighbors. I will save the last 5 gallons that come out to dump back in after I repair the pump and get my ass to the gas station. It's going to be a real bitch to work in the freezing cold at my apartment's parking lot to get it done between stints at work during the rest of the week. Why not the weekend? It's going to drop to 12 degrees then....weather that kills with long term exposure. :P

[Jon Teeter]

Originally Posted by wolfox

I am in your same boat at the moment. I have lost the fuel pump. I can hear it run, but it only makes a very weak pressure - not nearly enough to get it started. The only advice I can give is that if you're mechanically inclined, it still would do you good to pick up a Haynes or Chilton's book on the truck. For my '95 4-door 4x4, the fuel pump, the associated o-rings pack and a new strainer sock will run me a cool $178.99 from a local GM/AC-Delco parts dealership near my house. What vexes me right now is that as of a day before the pump failed, I had just topped off the tank. I do not know what I am going to do with 19+ gallons of fresh gas. I am thinking of buying a 5 gallon fuel jug and giving away gas to the neighbors. I will save the last 5 gallons that come out to dump back in after I repair the pump and get my ass to the gas station. It's going to be a real bitch to work in the freezing cold at my apartment's parking lot to get it done between stints at work during the rest of the week. Why not the weekend? It's going to drop to 12 degrees then....weather that kills with long term exposure. :P

I have the same problem an almost full tank and not much ambition concidering Im not 100% sure what my problem is. I read alot of other threads saying about the CPI but it seems like everybody else has at least some fuel pressure so Im really not sure which route to take cause im laid off right now and money is deffinetly an issue.But I also need to get my blazer running because i need two vehicles because my wife cant drive a standard and my other truck is a stick shift.

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by Jon Teeter

I have the same problem an almost full tank and not much ambition concidering Im not 100% sure what my problem is. I read alot of other threads saying about the CPI but it seems like everybody else has at least some fuel pressure so Im really not sure which route to take cause im laid off right now and money is deffinetly an issue.But I also need to get my blazer running because i need two vehicles because my wife cant drive a standard and my other truck is a stick shift.

I can't really tell you what to do with the gas, but you will have a much easier time if you drain as much out as possible. While you are waiting, you might consider ordering a new fuel pump online. I just bought one for my 93 for $100 USD at AutoZone with a Lifetime Guarantee. It was a Bosch brand pump. If you don't have a Checker's or Autozone in your area, you might try Autozone online. Just make sure that you buy a new filter sock that goes on the bottom of the pump. Do not try to use the old sock new ones are only about $7.00

Anyway, it is a pretty simple proceedure to replace the pump.

After you drop the tank and disconnect the fuel lines, but before removing the pump unit from the tank, clean the top of the tank off as good as you possibly can. Remove as much of the grease, dirt, grime, pebbles, etc. Take your time and clean it good, use WD-40 or some other type of solvent liberaly, rags, and an air hose if you have one, and you'll be glad you did. This keeps all of that crud out of your tank. If necessary, dump the tank out and rinse with clean gas before re-assembly.

Once the tank is clean, Mark the tank next to one of the lines or ports so you can align the unit back up where it was when your ready to reassemble.

When you remove the Pump assembly out of the tank, be very careful not to bump the unit too much. Be sure to note the orientation of the old filter sock on the pump so you can get the new sock back on the new pump in the same orientation.

[riverjamie]

If possible you can try either Rockauto.com or Aplusparts.com. I've used both with no problems. I belive that Aplusparts.com does not charge shipping if over $75.00.

[wolfox]

I suggest sticking with the Bosch pumps or finding an OE part. Chances are, if you have no pressure, but still hear the pump working and the relay in the dash working, you've got a rotten pulsator tube. It is a small, 2" long rubber hose that connects the output of the pump to the metal riser tube that comes up to the top of the tank's collar. That or it's fallen off - it can hapen. Either way though it IS worth it to put an all new pump, revised harness and new pulsator tube in if you're going into the tank. I just collected all of my parts tonight including a new in-tank sock and fuel filter for about $130, getting a Bosch turbine pump from Autozone. Bosch's pat number for the '95, 4-door 4x4 is 69225. You'll get all of the rings, retainer clips, bands and tube in the box. THe fuel filter is part number FF504. The sock is part number FS22. The Bosch fuel pump kit cost me $92.99 over the counter, no questions asked.

[Jon Teeter]

Thanks for the info guys I think I may be able to use my buddies garage if i wait till saturday or sunday so I'll try the pump ,strainer,and pulsator and let you guys know how I make out.THanks

[blazee]

You can check the pressure at the filter just to make sure that it's the pump, before you change it.

[wolfox]

That is a good idea too - just to make sure that the final run of tubing is not kinked, clogged or collapsed. However, you'll need to get creative to adapt your kit for this purpose. I guess I really lucked out - fuel lines and fuel filter are good; clean as a whistle on my rig. So buying a $30 "universal" fuel pressure dial gague was the trick and it plugged right into the schrader valve to the rear of the engine block. I am still trying to beat the weather - it's going to drop below freezing tonight, sleet and snow. Oi. Friday's going to be colder yet, and the weekend colder still. I want my baby back!

[Jon Teeter]

Blazee , Did I do something wrong in this post.I was just wondering because this is the first time I used this forum and I see the the link to the guidlines under your message.Please let me know I dont want to cause any problems.I also thought I should let you know that I read what you said about checking the pressure at the filter.I dont have a pressure gauge handy right now but I loosened the lines on the filter and turned the key and the gas spit out with a good bit of pressure.Thats much better than the little trickle I got from the schrader valve.Which I did use a gauge on and it read ZERO.

[wolfox]

Well, at least you know your pump is not completely dead. However, it does need to be tested with a pressure gague to make sure that it is performing like it should. Do what you can to figure out if you have a blocked tube leading from the filter to the block. Then tighten her all back up again and get a hold of a pressure gague. You can rent them if you do not want to buy them....have cash handy though. You'll get your money back when you return the tool. As for what operating pressures you should look for, read this brief technical document, it will give you some solid info to work from:

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us30098.htm

You'll see how pressure & fuel flow rates are tied closely together and why you experience bad performance, rough starts or no starts at all. I am just aching to get out of the office to get back home to start my work. I will try and document what I go through to help add info to the collective consciousness here on the forum.

[blazee]

Originally Posted by Jon Teeter

Blazee , Did I do something wrong in this post.I was just wondering because this is the first time I used this forum and I see the the link to the guidlines under your message.Please let me know I dont want to cause any problems.I also thought I should let you know that I read what you said about checking the pressure at the filter.I dont have a pressure gauge handy right now but I loosened the lines on the filter and turned the key and the gas spit out with a good bit of pressure.Thats much better than the little trickle I got from the schrader valve.Which I did use a gauge on and it read ZERO.

You haven't done anything wrong. That is part of my signature (it shows up at the bottom of all my posts), I put it there so that its easier for everyone to find. You can add a signature to your posts if you'd like, just click here to edit your signature:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...=editsignature

The fuel exiting the lines can be deceiving, you can have low pressure and still appear to have good flow. I wasn't saying that the pump is or isn't the problem, just giving you another way to test, so that you can be more certain.

[sirul]

Hey guys, I had my fuel pump/filter replaced last month and since I got it back I have to give it a couple of seconds when I turn the key to run before I switch to crank.
If I try to switch the key all the way the first time, it wont start. It seems like the fuel line is empty when I try to start the truck, doesn't this line is pressurized all the time?
Your help would be really appreciated!!

[wolfox]

Yeah, it should not leak-down for a *very* long time if everything is healthy. When I went to go get a look at my truck to finish draining the gas out of the tank last night, I had the same pressure for over two days of it just sitting there when I shut the engine off. There are a lot of places these trucks can loose fuel pressure from, especially a CPI engine. A rapid leak-down is usually a good indicator that there is something wrong with your nut kit or injector, including the pressure regulator. That is, if you already checked everything else for leaks. The best leak detector you have is you own nose. Gasoline REEKS, and your first whiff of it is usually the strongest - work fast if you smell gas to locate the leak(s).

[sirul]

Originally Posted by Jon Teeter

Can someone please help me?My 95 s10 4x4 blazer with a 4.3 vortec that will barely run(if it starts at all).I have narrowed it down to a fuel issue.I dont have any pressure at the port on the rail .I can hear the pump running and it sounds the same as it always has and I replaced the fuel filter thinking I may get lucky.This didnt solve my problem even though I could barely blow through the filter.I would truely appreciate any advise because I dont have a garage and and Im not having fun in all the snow and cold weather.thanks

Just a note. I bought my fuel pump in e-bay. Here is a link to the same pump I bought ($125.00) it works really good, but now I just have to figure it out why I'm loosing fuel pressure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-A...spagenameZWDVW