Position of IMRC levers?

[weedman]

What position should the IMRC levers be in? When the stop is seated against the set screw, is this closed or open? Is it correct that they should be closed during idle and will they move above 3000 RPM while in park?

[98er]

Originally Posted by weedman

What position should the IMRC levers be in? When the stop is seated against the set screw, is this closed or open? Is it correct that they should be closed during idle and will they move above 3000 RPM while in park?

I have a 98. The controls sit wide open (opposite the stops) when the car is off. Once started, they move to closed position. I'm not sure of the engagement RPM, but recall it at around 4500 for the Windstar. Sounds high as my SHO comes in at 3400.
Marc/Atlanta

[wiswind]

They are supposed to close around 2900 or 3000 RPM.
If they are NOT working correctly, you should get a Check Engine Light and a code. If you have no code, then they should be fine.
I am not big on reving the engine that high in the driveway....also, the open signal comes from the PCM, and it is possible that there is another parameter or so that it uses to determine the opening of them.

[weedman]

My 1999 3.8 has only been getting about 15MPG highway and I wasn't sure if this was the culprit. Both butterfly valves operate off one electronic actuator on mine. I noticed last night, the rear (bank 1) has the cam seated against the set screw, while the front (bank 2) is about 1/2 turn the other direction (not seated to the set screw). This did not change whether the engine was off or whether it was idling. My Haynes manual says they should be consistant. Judging by the stripping on the fastners, it had been removed or worked on before. No codes or CEL has been seen

[98er]

hey weedman,
I'm not a professional mechanic but I've played one in my garage for the past 30 years. I love to hate Fords. I can tell you that the runners are supposed to open and close simultaneously. On some Fords (SHO), the PCV residue and EGR heat create a hardened scale in the intake that will freeze the runners and cause your control to snap. I don't think this applies to the Windstar but there you have it. If you disconnect the controls, the levers should open and close freely to the stops. If they don't, it's time for a cleaning. As for mileage, you have one bank receiving more air than the other. It may have an effect.

[weedman]

Thanks guys for the feedback. I was able to take a closer look at these last night and found out they were out of adjusment. After reconnecting the power and pulling out on the bank 2 rod (simulating an open condition) which also opened bank 1. I started the vehicle and saw they moved. I reconnected bank 2 rod to the cam and loosened the mounting bolts for the IMRC. I adjusted it front to back until both cams were to the set screw and retightened the mounting bolts. Restarted the vehicle and confirmed they were both closed. Because the linkeage is tied together off 1 solenoid, and the bank 1 cam was hitting the set screw first, it prevented the bank 2 cam from closing.
98er - I hope your right and this will increase my mileage. I would be happy getting 18-20mpg on the highway. At least it would be better and not worse than my Explorer.

[98er]

Glad you were able to correct it. My 98 gets 18 in the city and 25 on the highway. You should be able to do a little better. If the mileage is high, an oxygen sensor change can help. Make sure your gasoline has NO ethanol in it as that will lower your mileage as well. Good job!

[rodeo02]

You should be able to watch the IMRC cycle full range of motion at startup or s/d (it's one of the two). Just pop the hood and have a helper start/stop the engine while you watch the IMRC.

Joel