Low vacuum and flooding

[BeoWolfe]

Greetings,

Here is what is happening. At cold start I can not press the accelerator until the car warms up or the car dies by flooding out. After the car warms up and I can drive it - it lacks power - its rare that it gets up to 70mph.

Here is what I know...

My spark plugs are clean and my wires, cap and rotor have been recently replaced. I would think with it flooding out that the plugs would be black with carbon... but they are not.

Vacuum= 15 +/- 1 with a bounce (This seems low)
Fuel pressure with Key on, engine off = 28
Fuel pressure engine running = 21
Compression test: All cylinders between 140-150
Checked resistance of both ECT and Air temp sensor and they read in the proper amouont of ohms for the temperature and change quickly when warmed or cooled
Cat converter has been removed changed nothing.
Timing has been checked and set per the label under the hood.

A few odd questions... with low vacuum shouldn't the map sensor be telling the ECU to lean fuel?

Can I still get good compression readings like those I posted if I have a cam or valve issue?

[unbe]

Beowolfe
I would think low vacuum would indicate a load so it would actually send more fuel but since its in a closed loop with the feedback of the O2 I don't know if that would actually happen.What signs do you have that its too rich of a mixture when it dies,I'm certainly no expert just picking your brain,I'm sure someone will jump in with the right answer eventually
Unbe

[BeoWolfe]

Originally Posted by unbe

Beowolfe
What signs do you have that its too rich of a mixture when it dies,I'm certainly no expert just picking your brain,I'm sure someone will jump in with the right answer eventually
Unbe

When it dies I can not restart it just by cranking it. I have to unplug the fuel injector - then I have to crank the car - the car will start and stumble for a few seconds while it burns up the excess fuel. After the fuel is all cleared out I plug the injector back in and it will start up.

[Metro Mighty Mouse]

Originally Posted by DieInterim

Double check your camshaft timing.

Or ignore it completely and increase the timing until it runs normally. Watch your engine temp and fuel mileage during the process and listen for knocking. when I replaced my motor with a JDM motor it wouldn't run right and was running a little hot with the timing set per the tag, I advanced the timing almost as far as it would go and it now runs right, normal temps and nothing but occasional normal (high load) knocking. At some point in time I'll try to chase down the issue but time and space will have to allign properly (I live in an apartment currently).

[unbe]

Mouse
You must be referring to ignition not cam timing.
Unbe

[Metro Mighty Mouse]

Originally Posted by unbe

Mouse
You must be referring to ignition not cam timing.
Unbe

True, but I've had to wonder if that wasn't the cause - it being a notch off - and whatever it was, advancing the timing at least helped diagnose the problem.

[BeoWolfe]

Lol, hmmmmm I think I am going to go nuts.


I pulled off the timing belt cover and the cam and crank seemed lined up perfectly so I reassembled and checked my timing. My timing was set at 10, so I moved it back down to the recommened 5 - car ran like crap... so for fun I advanced the timing as much as i could by twisting the distributor. The car runs much better with it pushed all the way to the max.


At this point I want to kick myself. When I pulled it apart to check if the cam and crank where lined up I did not pull the crank gear bolt out and inspect the key way :/. I am starting to get the feeling that the crank gear may have rotated on the crankshaft. This has happened to me before on the last engine I had in my metro. It was an oil burner and had crappy compression so when the keyway got chewed up I just replaced the engine. Has any one here successfully repair a crankshaft keyway? If so I could use some tips.

[Metro Mighty Mouse]

If this is a JDM motor I would have to wonder if there are some that are different, requiring the timing to be advanced more than normal metift (or is it switro) engine. I fought with mine for a couple of weeks, no power, ran hot, no gas mileage, etc, until I started playing with the timing. Once I advanced the timing the motor started behaving normally. I still have a little adjustment room left and my mileage is not quite what it should be, but since it is a guessing game at this time and it's not knocking I've left well enough alone. I wonder if the crank and/ or cam pulleys are different, I put the metro ones on since the timing belt looked pretty worn out and I had a brand new metro timing belt. Let us know what you find, I will definately be watching.

Jon

[unbe]

Originally Posted by BeoWolfe

Lol, hmmmmm I think I am going to go nuts.


Has any one here successfully repair a crankshaft keyway? If so I could use some tips.

Beowolfe
Check out the post about 91 METRO CRANKS BUT WONT START its still on the first page it was only a few days ago.Good luck.
Unbe

[BeoWolfe]

Ah HA!

*me holds up a bent up crank key way*

I replaced the keyway and cleaned and buffed up the crank shaft and pully. I needed to fill in the gaps that got worn out with some JB weld. Reassembled, My vacuum is now hitting 22 and my power (well as much power as a metro can get) has returned!

[Metro Mighty Mouse]

Originally Posted by BeoWolfe

Ah HA!

*me holds up a bent up crank key way*

I replaced the keyway and cleaned and buffed up the crank shaft and pully. I needed to fill in the gaps that got worn out with some JB weld. Reassembled, My vacuum is now hitting 22 and my power (well as much power as a metro can get) has returned!

Well next time I have a chance I will check to see if that is the case on mine, thanks for the info.

Jon