92 bravada fuel injection question

ericn1300 · #1 02-06-2006, 03:07 PM

Chris you were right. took it to a shop and opened it up and found fuel puddles in the intake. the shop says on the vin W engines they cant change the regulator they want to put a whole new spider in too. their quoting me $900 bucks. is this right?

Chris Stewart · #2 02-07-2006, 12:29 AM

http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm
Scroll down to the 4.3 Service Kit...$300.
The biggest thing is which side of the motor has the puddle? Drivers side puddle is fuel lines. Passenger side puddle is the CPI fuel pressure regulator.
I'll be checking mine soon because it's getting hard to start and I can smell a little gasoline. If it's fuel lines again, I'll make up some steel braided lines. If it's the CPI regulator, I'll do the Lindertech regulator update since the price is so reasonable and they say the update replaces the poorly designed early stock piece.

ericn1300 · #3 02-07-2006, 09:24 PM

good info Chris, but a little to late for me. the same day the bravada went into the shop i got hit by a guy that ran a red light in my pontiac. had to bite the bullet and pay full price to get it done quick, busy week and the 50 Gmc is no fun to drive on an 500 mile trip and i never run the mustang in winter weather.

i think i will print it out, take it down to the the repair shop and thumb tack it to the owners forehead as i say adios for the last time though.

thanks again, you da man

Chris Stewart · #4 02-07-2006, 11:59 PM

Wow, thats too bad Eric, hope nobody was hurt. Hope the redlight runner is responsible enough to have insurance and they work with you. Maybe you can mention how you had to take a $700 bath because of the wreck.

ericn1300 · #5 02-08-2006, 07:16 PM

it gets even worse. remember the ealier post where the origional prob was a misfire with rough stalling engine when cold? thats what i took it in for after going thru the the plugs, wires, etc. well the morning after shelling out $951 for the spider and a few other things the same thing happened. stalled three times in two blocks on her and she ended up walking the last mile to work. turned out to be a bad distributer. cost me another $200 for that.

Chris Stewart · #6 02-08-2006, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericn1300

it gets even worse. remember the ealier post where the origional prob was a misfire with rough stalling engine when cold? thats what i took it in for after going thru the the plugs, wires, etc. well the morning after shelling out $951 for the spider and a few other things the same thing happened. stalled three times in two blocks on her and she ended up walking the last mile to work. turned out to be a bad distributer. cost me another $200 for that.

Sorry about all your trouble, can you get the old CPI back for future spare parts?
Did it have a cracked reluctor or bad module? I read that a coil going bad would eventually kill the module. The coil on my '92 was buzzing so I replaced it quick...I hope it was quick enough.

ericn1300 · #7 02-10-2006, 12:38 AM

yeah, i got the old CPI back. the dist shaft upper bearings were shot, wobbly and dry. knew it was an ignition prob this time but i think replacing the CPI fixed the other drivability problems i noticed since buying it last year. remember my old post? used to hesitate and act sluggish when hot from 0 to 25 miles per hour. i think the leak was small enough to cause the drivability issue at low rpm, but not set a SES 45 trouble code particulary when combined with the bad O2 sensor (another post of mine).

drives great now though, happy to have it back now that the pontiac is going into the shop. thanks for your help

Chris Stewart · #8 02-10-2006, 09:20 AM

Now the distributor bearing problem is interesting...mine has a small sqeak that stops when the motor warms up or if I twist on the distributor cap...I'll check deeper....thanks.

ericn1300 · #9 02-11-2006, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Stewart

Now the distributor bearing problem is interesting...mine has a small sqeak that stops when the motor warms up or if I twist on the distributor cap...I'll check deeper....thanks.

top bearing looks sealed to me. check your service manual and see if there's lube point for me.

Chris Stewart · #10 02-12-2006, 08:42 PM

Sorry Eric, it's my sad duty to inform you there's no bearing kit on it. The housing holds the shaft, oil for the distributor gear manages to get on the shaft where a reverse cut groove carries some oil to the top "bushing" end of the housing...I don't see a top seal either. It can be rebuilt if the housing "bushings" aren't wallered out like yours.

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