Camber Kit.

[Rein]

Need a Camber Kit. I have my car lowered on 17s. I'm not sure how low, but it's at the point where it doesnt rub all the time, just when I take turns that have bumps too fast. I am noticing mild uneven ware on my front tires, my back are perfect. I went to a shop and they quoted me at $300 installed. He explained a few different types of camber kit. The one he quoted me on was the bushings. My question is, how different are these different types? Should I just go all out with bushings, or is there anything that will get the job done for a little less?

[Dezoris]

oh no...

Lets lay it out shall we?


From experience now I can give a fairly good opinion.
There are more factors involved here than meets the eye for a good kit, the most important is
1.)How is your suspension setup
2.)How low are you
3.)What wheel tire size do you have and offset
4.)What is your goal (race or pimp it)
5.)How much do you want to spend

With those things in mind, feast on the following

Front Camber kit

If you are lower than 3.0 inches, have 17"+ rims, or 40mm offset or lower (if you have any combination of those)

Your choice is this to safely drop your car, and to assure no rubbing. I feel if you have two of those issues you are already out of line for racing IMO

The best kit would be


Skunk2 Front camber kit.
King Motorsports uses these rebadged as their own.

Benefits are
These kits are the best for excessive lowering and for those who have improper offset rims and wide large tires, are pretty much guarenteed not to bang the upper A-Arm like the Ingalls that move the A-Arm out farther, it is also easy to install.

Drawbacks are
1.)Shitty allen wrench screws to lock down ball joint (I would not trust to race)
2.)Diffficult to align (must raise the car, guess adjust, lower the car, raise the car again) Can't be adjusted under load.

If you are using 16" rims or lower with an inch less than 2.5" and rims with the proper offset, and are considering racing
Kmac

Progress adjustable Ball joint


The reason for these is because you do not have to raise the car for adjustments which takes 70% less time to align so if you have the proper tools to align your car, or do it frequently it is great.

The drawbacks are longer install times, stock control arms and bushings (which can be upgraded) and smaller range of adjustment. But strong. For race.

For an average drop of 1.5" or less and stock rims or 15-16" wheels with proper offset

Ingalls or Progress Suspension


Very good kit, but old design. For those condition mentioned this is the best kit

Drawbacks
1.)Excessive lowering will rub the a-arm
2.)does not have a large adjustment range
3.)Average alignment time.


Rear Kits

For the rear kit the best kit for a honda on the market is the King Motorsports made rear upper control arm kit.
The only thing I complain about is no, grease fitting for those who drive in winter, where the joints will get all grimmed up and nasty.


The second choice would be this
Ingalls rear


Advantages, this is the best most efficient kit you can buy, nothing better for a honda, that is from experience.

If you are totally cheap Ingalls offers this.


It is 10$ to buy and the cheapest way to fix rear camber, but totally gay to align since you are adding washers, there is no science to it and it takes forever.

But if you are doing this trick, buy these bolts for god sakes dont buy some soft metal bolts from Home Depot that will rust or break.

Thats it want more? PM me.

[Rein]

The guy also said that once you set the camber, that's it. So does that mean I couldn't put a set of 16s on anytime? I would just always have to stick with 17s and 205/40/17 tires?

[luti]

I am in the process of lowering my car. I want it to be more for race than for show. I read your (Dezoris) post and am interested in the Progress adjustable Ball joint and a real camber kit for the rear (no washer tricks please). I need to know where I can get them, and how much they cost. I also noticed you said one of the rears was bad in the winter. I currently live in Chicago and am about to move to Rochester NY (right in the snow belt), what do you recommend for the rear?

[Dezoris]

Originally posted by Rein
The guy also said that once you set the camber, that's it. So does that mean I couldn't put a set of 16s on anytime? I would just always have to stick with 17s and 205/40/17 tires?

If you plan on 16"s and want to keep the 17"s regardless I would do the Skunk2 kit.

It is best for larger rim/tire combos and lower drops.
Once you switch from 17" to 16" wheels, you will need another alignment even though your over all diameter does not change, if you follow the upgrade downgrade procedure, tread designs and sidewall designs can effect the toe angles which is enough to create tire wear and diffrent handling characteristics.

It's true that once you have a good alignment you won't need one again unless you race for 6-12 months

[Dezoris]

Originally posted by luti
I am in the process of lowering my car. I want it to be more for race than for show. I read your (Dezoris) post and am interested in the Progress adjustable Ball joint and a real camber kit for the rear (no washer tricks please). I need to know where I can get them, and how much they cost. I also noticed you said one of the rears was bad in the winter. I currently live in Chicago and am about to move to Rochester NY (right in the snow belt), what do you recommend for the rear?

I live in Woodstock IL, about 1hr 10minutes away from Chicago, and I have had a few problems with my suspension related to the salt etc.

My threaded Bilstein shocks have taken some corrosion on the threads and my old Neuspeed tie bar with joints similar to the king setup were frozen. So, I don't recommend the king rear camber kit unless you lube it and cover up the joints in winter time.

As far as the camber kits up front
You can go through Nopi.com for SKunk2
For Ingalls you can go through http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/ingalls.htm
and for the Kmac front kit go to
www.shox.com and call them and talk to Chris about their front kit.
There are some cheaper versions of the Ingalls rear kit by specialty products which are not bad the difference is in the bushing quality.

The King rear is the best strongest but requires special care.

If you want more technical info etc about tuning go here
http://www.hondalife.com/technicalsuspension.htm
I have some detailed shit about alignments

[Rein]

Well I guess I must wait until I can afford a camber kit to keep my shit lowered. I'll just raise the shit back up all the way. Another thing is, I don't notice any uneven tirewear on the back wheels. only the front. They are lowered pretty much the same.

[Dezoris]

Well since you are not using the rear wheels to turn, wear patterns are harder to detect, in the back. Also the factory allowance for negative camber is greater for this reason.

[jasoncho408]

I only dropped my car 1.5 inches and the washer trick did fine in the rear. Using only 2 washers per bolt, it corrected my rear camber 0.0 and 0.1 which is practically dead on. Saves me money and it was easy to do.

[jasoncho408]

Dezoris, how did you get those larger screws through the threaded ball joint in your camber kit? Thats very clever