95 tercel!!!!

97cavalier · #1 02-04-2006, 09:18 PM

hey, my brother has a 95 toyota tercel dx woth out abs and i was changing the front pads and rear shoes. So i got the front pads done but. How do you you get the back hub off the change the shoes? i tries oiling it and hmmering it off and i can't get it to come off. Do you have to take the bearing off with it? I have to get this done, any help, plz!!

rhynes · #2 02-05-2006, 11:50 AM

yep, pop the bearing cap. There's either a cotter pin and a retaining clip and a big nut under it, or theres just a nut with one side pinched. Remove it either way, and the drum should pop off with the bearing. Slide out the drum a little, push it back in and pull the bearing out first. Remove the drum.

Make sure you keep everything clean, wipe off the bearings and repack them with grease. I usually replace the rear dust seal at the same time.

97cavalier · #3 02-05-2006, 01:56 PM

oh damn, did not think it would be that much work, but thanx alot for your help, i will try that. Do you recomend replacing the bearing when i do this?

rhynes · #4 02-05-2006, 02:03 PM

Many cars are set up like this... It's not so hard to do it, just gotta be careful when dealing with your bearings. Be sure to keep it clean. clean the bearings and inspect them, if they aren't pitted and spin fine, just reinstall them. Be careful when reinstalling, do not overtighten. I think the way it goes, over torque them then back it off a little. You want the bearings snug but not tight. Make sure after you reinstall the bearing that the drum spins freely, but is not loose.

If you were to replace your bearing, then it comes as a cone/cup setup. The current cup would have to be removed and a new one pressed in. Again, not hard to do, just need the right tools.

Good luck

97cavalier · #5 02-06-2006, 10:07 PM

well, i changed the shoes and greased every thing up and it was a pain in the ass!!! to manny clips and springs, now i forgot to adujust that breaks, so now i have to tke it all off again and adjust them.

rhynes · #6 02-06-2006, 11:34 PM

well, I said getting the drum off was easy, you didn't ask about how hard the brakes were to change

Alotta rear brakes are difficult but at least you got the job done. If you're looking to adjust the rear brakes, there should be a small window on the back of the brake system, this should line up with the starwheel adjustment.

Bleed your brakes too, good time to do it.

97cavalier · #7 02-07-2006, 11:47 AM

blead all but one, the bolt is getting striped, i also put a new master cylender in while back, so all i got to do is adjust them and hope they are fine.

rhynes · #8 02-07-2006, 12:33 PM

good job, it's not exactly an easy one

97cavalier · #9 02-07-2006, 06:10 PM

ya i know, the back ones are in there side ways, i was like what?? and any ways i adjusted them today and it is the best these have ever been, but when they are warmed up when you hit the break pedal a little hard or when you ride it a little when the breaks are hot, it squeaks for them drives side back. what is up with that? i wiped all of the dust out of the drum, so why is it doing this?

rhynes · #10 02-07-2006, 06:42 PM

Sideways? I take it you've never done a set of drums before eh?

They may be adjusted a little too tight if they are really heating up. Some heat is normal tho, could be a great deal under major braking. When you installed the drums, did you spin them to ensure there's no rubbing? Did you do anything with the emergency brake at all?

I would get it back on the jack and spin the back tires. Make sure there's no slop side to side and top to bottom. They should spin freely, if they don't, the bearings could be too tight.

They may just need a break in period too. If your pads were worn down quite a bit, there's probably grooves in the brake drum.

97cavalier · #11 02-07-2006, 07:03 PM

ya, i spun them and they do not rub, and i don't rid the breaks for them to heat up that much, i did not touch the ebreak either. They may just need to be broke in. And i wiped all of the dust out of the drum, it is only doing it on the back drivers side hub. weird

97cavalier · #12 02-14-2006, 06:08 PM

ok, now the front squeek bad!!! culd that be caused by a warped rotor?

rhynes · #13 02-14-2006, 09:45 PM

You'd know a warped rotor, you'll feel the pulsation in the brake pedal when hitting the brakes.

When you installed the brake pads on the front, did you clean up the caliper? You should be able to move the caliper in and out with your hand. If you can't slide the caliper, take it off, remove the guide pins (I think there's 2) and use some high heat grease to lube them up. I think the product to use is called silglide. Basically, if the caliper doesn't slide, then you're going to get more wear on one pad than the other and you should feel a pulsation.

I always sand the rust off any contact points as well where the caliper meets the hub.

As well, there's a product out there, I think it's called brakequiet. We used to call it smurf shit, it's blue anyhow. The back of the brake pad should be painted with this stuff then allowed to dry before installation... all cheap fixes.

97cavalier · #14 02-14-2006, 09:52 PM

ya, but the breaks are so damn loud, i can not hit the brakes hard enuf or long eunf to see if it shakes, i do not think it does. But i fell the rotor and it fells a little rough. So after i take the caliper loose, do i take it apart? And i did not clean any thing when i put them on, i just took the old out, and slap new on. ON the drives side front wheel there has been alot of break dust. So i guess i will take the pads off and clean every thing and then put some of that crap on u told me about.

97cavalier · #15 02-14-2006, 09:53 PM

and the front calipers, there is jst this on circle thing that moves in it out, the piston thing. Do i have to grease that?

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