2.2 Head question

Jeff1967 · 02-01-2006, 07:56 AM

I have a 94 S-10 with a 2.2 in it, I believe my head is cracked or leaking head gasket (there is water in the second spark plug well) I just recently got a 95 Cavilier 2.2 engine and was wondering if this head would work for my truck. I have read and heard from mechanics it would but it looks like on the Cavi engine the Thermostat goose neck is in the rear of the engine where mine is in the front would this make a difference with the head swap.

TIA
Jeff

dmbrisket 51 · 02-01-2006, 02:10 PM

i beleve it will work, take the heads off and compair the casting numbers

Jeff1967 · 02-02-2006, 07:10 AM

Thank you for replying. I have the 95 cavi out and noticed it has a soft plug on the end where my thermostat will bolt so I am suspecting I will have to take that plug out. But was wondering about the other end where this thermostat housing was. Any ideas on this? Can you see the number on the S10 head without taking the head completely off, this weekend I am attacking this project and didn't want to take it all the way off if it won't work.

Thanks again

Jeff

dmbrisket 51 · 02-02-2006, 06:42 PM

if the head is junk it needs to come off anywayse so what does it matter? and there is no way to know a junk head from bad head gasket with it on the truck

Jeff1967 · 02-03-2006, 08:26 AM

I just was wondering if it would work before I took it all apart because the Cavi head is the only one in my area so once it is apart and if it doesn't work I will have to put the old one back on till I can find another one. Just trying to save myself some time.

OverBoardProject · 02-03-2006, 06:41 PM

The wreckers will probably have a cross referance chart, so get them to look it up for you.

I don't know of any member that works in an auto grave yard, so we can't just ask them.

If it does work take the thermostat housing from the new motor to a welder and get them to make a plate that will bolt in it's place.
Pretty easy, and shouldn't cost that much.
If you know thay have the odd beer you might want to bring a 6 pack along with you. That'll probably cover the cost

wilfie27 · 02-04-2006, 09:38 AM

These heads are prone to cracking above the spark plug holes and down into the threads of the sparkplug, unrepairable. You can use the head from the Cavalier for your S-10 just have to make some modifications.

Both of the heads have the same casting numbers ending in 391. There is a FWD version and a RWD version. The FWD version has a threaded hole on the lower left side of the exhaust and one across from it on the intake side. these will need to be plugged for your S-10. There is no thermostat housing mounting bolt holes on the Cavalier head. You will have to match where your thermostat housing was on your original head and transfer that to your "new" head. Drill and tap the two mounting bolt holes (10 mm X 1.5 tpi) making sure not to drill through the head into the water jacket. With those done you will be able to use the Cavalier head.

Other things to check on the Cavalier head before you install it is on the bottom, check for cracks on the outer two bolt holes and the combustion chambers are not cracked or deteoriated badly.

Jeff1967 · 02-04-2006, 09:36 PM

Ok I got the Cavi head installed today and now I can't get the valve adjustment right, I did it by the book but the lifters are tapping. Can someone clue me in on how to adjust the valves?

Thanks again

Jeff

OverBoardProject · 02-04-2006, 10:36 PM

I hope that you kept all the push rods in order.
Did you use new lifters?

There is a pretty good chance that you'll need the push rods from the car motor. If you do try keeping them in order if it isn't too late.

If you can't get the push rods there's a pretty good chance that you can manually adjust the valves, but you'll need the rocker studs to be long enough for the nuts, and a lock nut on every one.

dmbrisket 51 · 02-05-2006, 01:07 AM

adjustment is 0 lash plus about 90 degrees

OverBoardProject · 02-05-2006, 01:19 AM

It's a retrofitted motor, and probably designed with a longer push rod length in mind.

They are already bottomed out, so this won't work.

Now that I think about it the only cure is the right sized push rods (unless it's the lifters or some other problem) Backing off the adjusters will only make it worst.

Look for an exhaust leak before taking the valve cover off, they basicly sound the same when they're at the manifold

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