2000 Bonniville SLE: 3 windows/3 door locks and right mirror not working

[chevalier7639]

This may be a long post but I am lost. Right front, right rear and left rear power windows and door locks are not working. Also right mirror isn't working either. I have gone as far as pulling the drivers seat and checking all wiring and grounding block under seat and all seems ok there. Also have checked grounding blocks located at left front door kick panel right front door kick panel and grounding block under rear seat. All fuses have been pulled and checked and relay and circut breaker have been checked in fuse panel. All connections seem to be clean. One thing I see is also none of the little lights in the switches in the three doors are working either. There are no clicking sounds in the doors or the fuse panel when switches are activated from each door or from the drivers door. I can only beleive that maybe the main controller in the drivers door is causing this but sure don't want to spend the high price of buying a new one to find out that isn't the problem. I have read in other posts references to (serial buses), what and where are these and is there a way to check them? The car has wet floors in left front and right rear areas of passenger compartment which I have taken care of because the drains on the sun roof were leaking, (right rear drain was pinched up under the headliner which looked like it came that way from the factory) and left front drain line was not connected up under the dash which I am not going to pull to reconnect so I plugged the drain hole up at sun roof on that corner and will let all water run to right front drain hole so wet floors are history. Yes I checkd by dumping glasses of water in drain track in sunroof and all is well there. Back to the window issue I also pulled caps off from wiring tracks under drivers seat and rear seat and all wiring seems to be dry and no corrosion. This is my daughtrs car (thank god) biggest piece of crap I have ever seen as far as electrical problems and poor workmanship (IE sun roof drain engineering) and assembly. WHAT AM I MISSING??? Any help on this issue will be greatly appreciated.

[richtazz]

The serial bus is the wiring that communicates between the BCM and the door lock switches/ window switches for the automatic locks/security system and such. These are very thin wires and subject to corrosion damage if there is a water intrusion problem. It is virtually impossible to diagnose/trace without some specialized tools.

[chevalier7639]

One thing I didn't mention is that the drivers door control module was replaced at a authorized repair facility with a new gm original part with no improvement or changes with the problem. Of corse there is no return allowed on electrical parts so she is out close to two hundred bucks on that deal. She was quoted a more reasonable price from this facility but ended up losing because if the dealer would have done the work the money wasted on the part could have gone towards labor at finding the problem at the dealer. I double checked everything today with all the wiring, fuses, and grounding blocke to no avail. I find absoulutely no corrosion anywhere so I put it all back together and put the battle on hold for another day. I still don't understand why none of the switch illumination lights work on the 3 doors that aren't functioning. If they all have different grounding blocks it seems that at least one or more of them would be working. Only grounding block I don't seem to find is RR door. Do the rear doors share the same grounding block that is located under the rear seat close to the left side or is there anonther one somewhere on the right side for the RR door? I have declared war on this problem but I can see I may need some reinforcement troops to prevail. Any help will be apprciated.

[chevalier7639]

Ps, Is there a chance the problem could be with the master control switch in the drivers door? The power windows did not quit at the same time, it happened over a 2 month period or so. First the RR then the LR then the LF. Has anyone ever replaced the master switch with any luck?? I don't know when the right mirror or the door locks quit working but they all did work when she purchased the car last april.

[dczimmer]

Originally Posted by chevalier7639

Ps, Is there a chance the problem could be with the master control switch in the drivers door? The power windows did not quit at the same time, it happened over a 2 month period or so. First the RR then the LR then the LF. Has anyone ever replaced the master switch with any luck?? I don't know when the right mirror or the door locks quit working but they all did work when she purchased the car last april.

The same thing happened to my 2000 Bonneville - the wet floor and the 3 doors with no power. The floor problem was repaired the same as yours (sunroof drain). The loss of power was discovered to be a faulty connector under the floor of passenger seat (wire pulled out of connector). The dealer repaired it, and that is what I was told the problem was. Currently, I have a fuel gauge not responding properly, and the radio has LEDs (or bulbs) out on the left side of the display.

Hope this helps!

Doug

[chevalier7639]

Doug, Thank you for the info. I will tear it apart Saturday and see if that is the problem. I'll let you know how it turns out. Ps, My daughters car currently has the same problem with the fuel gauge and the radio lights on the left side. After all these electrical problems with this car I am sure happy I drive a Chrysler product,

[dczimmer]

Originally Posted by chevalier7639

Doug, Thank you for the info. I will tear it apart Saturday and see if that is the problem. I'll let you know how it turns out. Ps, My daughters car currently has the same problem with the fuel gauge and the radio lights on the left side. After all these electrical problems with this car I am sure happy I drive a Chrysler product,

I remember the mechanic telling me the connector was faulty, and the wire(s) were not making good contact. Also, I just bought a remanufactured fuel pump assembly from ebay
http://motors.search.ebay.com/search...&fsop=1&fsoo=1 Approx $150. Unfortunately, there are 3 to pick from - Superchager, 1st design, & 2nd design. Supercharger is obvious, but the 1st & 2nd design depend on the VIN. Y4120965 and before - 1st Design, Y4120966 and after - 2nd design. Should get it next week and installed. Will let you know!

Best of Luck!

[dontgetcaught]

Originally Posted by dczimmer

I remember the mechanic telling me the connector was faulty, and the wire(s) were not making good contact. Also, I just bought a remanufactured fuel pump assembly from ebay
http://motors.search.ebay.com/search...&fsop=1&fsoo=1 Approx $150. Unfortunately, there are 3 to pick from - Superchager, 1st design, & 2nd design. Supercharger is obvious, but the 1st & 2nd design depend on the VIN. Y4120965 and before - 1st Design, Y4120966 and after - 2nd design. Should get it next week and installed. Will let you know!

Best of Luck!

This is a common problem and the answer is found on this website:

http://www.autotechonwheels.com/2010...itching-it-up/

[Billy J]

Hey guys. I just went through the same thing. to think every one is right about the grounds. I fixed mine by pulling the kick panels both left and right, pulled apart the buss connector ,cleaned and soldered all spades .these are the main grounds . also on the pass side is the relays for fuelpump. water from windsheld can drip down into this relay and fuse and corrode . also there is a ground buss in the trunk, do the same as above .Same goes for trucks and Suv. Water is the main prob ,windshield seals are no good as it gets hard over time and pulls away causing the leaks. even though these connectors may look okay but they can become lose over time by just shutting the door. It's worth the time to remove the plastic cover to expose the spades and jumper bar and clean and SOLDER. you might be surprised how many things you'll fix just buy doing this.