Headers anyone?

[Jeremy02XType]

I can't seem to find anyone that makes aftermarket performance headers for the 2.5X. Do they exist? or would one have to go the custom $$$ route?

[Oldengineer]

Originally Posted by Jeremy02XType

I can't seem to find anyone that makes aftermarket performance headers for the 2.5X. Do they exist? or would one have to go the custom $$$ route?

Don't believe they exist. Have seen low restriction Borla muffler systems for the X that reportedly add a few ponies.

Regards:
Oldengineer

[Jeremy02XType]

I'm not so much looking to add hp but more so to increase fuel economy which I know headers can be great for especially if the headers have pre cats. A cat back I know Borla does make one, doesnt really do much for efficiency and I like the way it sounds with the factory exhaust. I would only go for something like that if I ever need to replace the exhaust

[Oldengineer]

Originally Posted by Jeremy02XType

I'm not so much looking to add hp but more so to increase fuel economy which I know headers can be great for especially if the headers have pre cats. A cat back I know Borla does make one, doesnt really do much for efficiency and I like the way it sounds with the factory exhaust. I would only go for something like that if I ever need to replace the exhaust

I know what you mean. The X's fuel economy leaves a bit to be desired. Some things I've lfound with my X to help fuel economy are:
1. I run 38 psi in the front tires and 35 in the rear.
2. The crazy car delivers its best economy at about 3K on the tach in 5th - which is about 80 mph with the automatic.
3. Put the best 93 octane gas in her that you can get. My mileage drops about 4 mpg on trips if I fuel with blended gas w/ethanol or 92 octane stuff.

Regards:
Oldengineer

[Jeremy02XType]

Well I havent given up on finding a set of headers yet but around here there is basically only 87, 89, (some sunoco stations carry 91) and 93. I don't believe they use blended gas.

What is the reason for needing premium fuel? It's not force induced and if the CR is under 11:1 87 should work fine

[Oldengineer]

Originally Posted by Jeremy02XType

Well I havent given up on finding a set of headers yet but around here there is basically only 87, 89, (some sunoco stations carry 91) and 93. I don't believe they use blended gas.

What is the reason for needing premium fuel? It's not force induced and if the CR is under 11:1 87 should work fine

With 87 Octane, the Jag's engine management system will back off the ignition timing to allow it to run without pre-ignition. It may also affect the operation of the VVT system as well, don't know how intelligent that system is. The car's designed to make it's rated hp on premium gas. The Jag's CR is 10.5 to 1. Years ago, I owned an Olds 442 with a 400/325HP with exactly the same CR. The car would not run on any other than premium without severe detonation and loss of performance.

Regards:
Oldengineer

[Jeremy02XType]

well looks like its back to the $$$ at the pump just like the WRX. oh well.

anyone know what brand of oil Jag ran ? most euro's have a Mobil1 or Castrol Syntec sticker under the hood somewhere. This doesnt even say what weight to use. I'm assuming it's probably a 5W-40

[Oldengineer]

Originally Posted by Jeremy02XType

well looks like its back to the $$$ at the pump just like the WRX. oh well.

anyone know what brand of oil Jag ran ? most euro's have a Mobil1 or Castrol Syntec sticker under the hood somewhere. This doesnt even say what weight to use. I'm assuming it's probably a 5W-40

Jag recommends regular Castrol 5W-30GTX. The oil weight should be noted on the oil fill cap. Using other weight oils reportedly will screw up the VVT system. I actually e-mailed Jag and asked them about using synthetics. They recommended that I stick with dino oil. My dealer also sticks with dino oil on the 10K service work he does on my car. The car holds 7 quarts of oil and I change mine every 5k - twice as often as Jag requires. I also use premium oil filters, usually Motorcraft 400S or Pure 1's. Jag also requires the dealer to use a new oil pan drain bolt at every change. It's not hard to change, but, you do have to take off a small air deflector that covers the drain bolt. Has 1-10MM head bolt in it. Be careful withn the deflector - replacements cost $40 from Jag. Filter's right in front and easy to get to, but, you'll get oil on the front convertor taking it off. Have to clean it off good, or, you'll get some oil smell for a while.

Regards:
Oldengineer

[Jeremy02XType]

now do they advise negatively against synthetics? I know with my RX7 it would actually damage the engine due to the rotary's odd comubstion cycle and how it would burn oil as part of the normal combustion process and synthetic oil didnt burn and blah blah blah

would it be bad to use synthetic? and how do they call 10k intervals on dino oil? does this car have an on board oil analysis computer?

do you have to take anything off to get to the filter? and why do you need to replace the bolt every time? I've heard of replacing the washer but why the bolt?

[Oldengineer]

Originally Posted by Jeremy02XType

now do they advise negatively against synthetics? I know with my RX7 it would actually damage the engine due to the rotary's odd comubstion cycle and how it would burn oil as part of the normal combustion process and synthetic oil didnt burn and blah blah blah

would it be bad to use synthetic? and how do they call 10k intervals on dino oil? does this car have an on board oil analysis computer?

do you have to take anything off to get to the filter? and why do you need to replace the bolt every time? I've heard of replacing the washer but why the bolt?

Supposedly synthetic oil might cause the VVT system to make noise. I'd get on Jag's US website and e-mail them to see if their recomendation has changed. Car doesn't have an on-board oil analysis computer. The dealer told me if I planned on keeping the car for a long period of time, do the oil changes at 5K. It does hold 7 quarts, so I'm comfortable with that - plus the Castrol I drain out at 5K doesn't look that dirty.

Re: The oil filter - No, you don't have to take anything off to get to it, just jack her nose up a bit to gain access to it. The drain bolt doesn't use a washer. Its got a o-ring built into its head, and, is 1 piece. Costs about $4 from a dealer. Be careful where you locate your jack underneath so you don't bend anything. I use a 3 ton capacity trolley jack under the front right side frame. Same caveat if you jack up the rear with a frame jack. One guy bent one of the rear trailing arms trying to jack his car up and it cost him a ton to get it fixed.

Regards:
Oldengineer
frame.