'94 Rodeo A/T probs. Computer?

[jmeyert4a]

Hi all... I have a '94 Rodeo, 3.2SOHC with automatic. Has 240K miles, regular services, no major probs except a plugged radiator 1 1/2 years back.

Was doing some work and disconected the battery for about 30 mins. and when re-connected the "Check Transmission" light came on.

Trans won't shift now... Seems as if in Winter Mode, but I disconnected the switch (hoping switch was bad) but no difference. (Shifts (up to 3, but not down) and runs OK manually...

Local trans guy friend (who has NEVER seen an ISUZU), says he pulled a #51 code, but doesn't have a clue what that is.

Any help here?

Thanks in advance,
Jim

[amigo-2k]

check your body grounds.

[jmeyert4a]

Originally Posted by amigo-2k

check your body grounds.

Thanks for the quick response... What/where would I be looking for? Is there a general ground strap that goes from the trans to the frame? Or am I looking for a specific ground to a switch and/or module?
JM

[rodeo02]

If you have full range of gears (PRND321) by shifting with the floor shifter, you have an trans electrical concern. Most common fault is with the trans range sensor. You will know it's the TRS if the PRND321 lights on the dash (if so equipped?) dont line up with what you have selected with the floor shifter. We've got alittle research going on here (here we go Ramblinfever ) Are you the original owner of your rodeo? do you know if it's the original trans? Thanks.

Joel

[jmeyert4a]

Originally Posted by rodeo02

If you have full range of gears (PRND321) by shifting with the floor shifter, you have an trans electrical concern. Most common fault is with the trans range sensor. You will know it's the TRS if the PRND321 lights on the dash (if so equipped?) dont line up with what you have selected with the floor shifter. We've got alittle research going on here (here we go Ramblinfever ) Are you the original owner of your rodeo? do you know if it's the original trans? Thanks.

Joel

Hi there... Thanks for jumping in here.

I DO have a full range of gears on the UP-shift. Not so on the down-shift.... No 2nd. (Also... NO cruise Control and NO back up Lights. Not cerrtain if related.)

Car does NOT have indicator lights on dash.

I am NOT the origional owner, but car came with detailed service records so I am confident that it IS the origional trans.

I agree that problem is electrical... was running fine until I disconected battery, When I re-connected, the Check light came on and problem started.

Isuzu once issued a tech bulletin related to problems with the "Winter Mode" switch, (that was first thought, as it wants to take off in 3rd), and said to check the switch by un-plugging... I DID, no difference.

JM

[rodeo02]

Code 51 could mean a bunch of stuff . Check here: http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszucel.shtml I'd start by verifying 14VDC across the battery terminals with the truck running, then like Ryan says, check your grounds. The really wierd thing you are describing is being able to manually shift into 2nd while accelerating, but you can't get it on the decel?

Joel

[jmeyert4a]

Originally Posted by rodeo02

Code 51 could mean a bunch of stuff . Check here: http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszucel.shtml I'd start by verifying 14VDC across the battery terminals with the truck running, then like Ryan says, check your grounds. The really wierd thing you are describing is being able to manually shift into 2nd while accelerating, but you can't get it on the decel?

Joel

Thanks again... As I stated I have 1-2 & 3 going up... But there is NO difference between 3 and "D".

From "D" on down shift, nothing happens until you get to "L".

If I try to take off in 2,3 or "D", it's all the same... Just like "winter mode".

No "kick-down" or "passing mode".

The "Power" light come on/goes off when the switch is pushed, as does the "winter" light, but, other than the indicator lights, nothing else seems to be happening.

I'll check the voltage when I get back home, but it's been a couple of weeks now and it starts and runs fine so it does not seem to be running low on juice.

Any hints regarding what I'm to look for in the way of "body grounds"? This thing seems to have ground wires all over the place that have funny plastic tabs on them... (Oh, how I long for the good old days when we had a nice flat braided copper strap!) (... and 14 year old cars were "jalopies" and long retired by 150K miles!) <GRIN> )

JM

[directory]

Originally Posted by jmeyert4a

(Oh, how I long for the good old days when we had a nice flat braided copper strap!) (... and 14 year old cars were "jalopies" and long retired by 150K miles!) <GRIN> )

amen to that. plastic on an engine..who'da thunk it???

[directory]

Originally Posted by jmeyert4a

Any hints regarding what I'm to look for in the way of "body grounds"? This thing seems to have ground wires all over the place that have funny plastic tabs on them...

you can start by changing out the big 3...

Big 3 - This entails replacing 3 wires under the hood with bigger ones
Battery ground to chassis
Battery ground to engine block
Battery positive to alternator (careful - often times it is routed thru the under hood fuse block)

make them bigger guage wires. this helps somewhat..and looks cool.

then there are several straps on and around the engine, some are fun to get to....

[Ramblin Fever]

Originally Posted by rodeo02

We've got a little research going on here (here we go Ramblinfever ) Are you the original owner of your rodeo? do you know if it's the original trans? Thanks.
Joel

[jmeyert4a]

Originally Posted by Ramblin Fever

Must be an inside joke... but NO and YES.
JM

[Ramblin Fever]

Let's just say I have a history of being a bit paranoid about things; and get excited hearing from other owners who actually have more miles then myself on original equipment.

There's not too many owners out there - on this forum anyway, that have more miles then I do.

[jmeyert4a]

Originally Posted by Ramblin Fever

Let's just say I have a history of being a bit paranoid about things; and get excited hearing from other owners who actually have more miles then myself on original equipment.

There's not too many owners out there - on this forum anyway, that have more miles then I do.

AhHa! Well, REGULAR service DOES work.

I bought the car about 3 years ago after my 4-Runner was stolen... The previous owner was an aerospace engineer with a 60 mi. each-way daily commute... (NOT uncommon here in the SoCalif area. BTW) He also had a cabin up in the Sierras (350 miles away) that they went to often for skiing/boating and such.

The dealership, SAnta Ana Isuzu, used to offer a "Happy Car Special". For $29.95 you got an oil change + filter, lube, tire rotation and a wash. He took the car in EVERY MONTH! (They SOLD out, and the new dealership does NOT offer the package, DRAT!)

In addition, it had ALL of it's "interval" services. (I got a whole file box of service records... Looking through them last night I saw where there were some cooling probs. early on, and it looks like a head-gasket was changed.)

He even washed the engine and compatrment every week with SimpleGreen... This car is 12 years old and everyone who has ever looked under the hood takes it for new.

I have kept up with the oil changes and stuff and YES, I DO still wash the engine.

(In writing this, I realize that I have never changed the tranny fluid, beyond the 3 qts. or-so that you get when you drop the pan and change the filter.)

About a year and a half ago I had some overheating probs. and changed out the water pump, and clutch fan (and went ahead and did timing belt, and all new hoses and belts), only to find out that it WAS a plugged radiator. (Incidentally, Amigo_2K pointed me to that FIRST, but I thought, "Nah, couldn't be, look how clean the coolant looks"...)

I build and maintain trails out in the back-country, so the truck sees a LOT of off-road use, tho' not too often in 4wd.

I've added 2 sets of Cibie lights, (fog and driving beam), a CalMini air intake/filter, a hot-rod-wiz-bang turbo exhaust, and since she was drooping in the rear when loaded with trail tools and camping stuff (or when pulling my trailer), some longer Downey Off-Road, rear spring shackles from my Toyota that I still had in the garage. (... and I took a few cranks on the front T-Bars and added a set of Bilsteins.) I just switched from BFG all-terrains to Pirelli Scorpions, and I love them! (ON-Highway (quiet) and Off... Off, is mostly sandy or flinty rock and mostly DRY.)

Hope I can get this dang tranny issue fixed... I love this truck!

Jim

[Ramblin Fever]

You've taken EXCELLENT care of that rig.

It's really sad that most don't even care to wash the engine - I too wash my engine, but not every week, it gets washed every 2 weeks in the winter and in the summer it just depends on how many dusty roads I've gone down.

But I'm really good about never having gotten mud or anything of the likes in the engine bay.

Question for you, how many miles would you say you got out of your radiator? I'm trying to decide if I should just go ahead, for safety sake, and change it out this summer - it does have 153k. I do have it flushed every year, but we have a Toyota truck that the 1st radiator had a blockage at 199k and blew the headgasket, taking the engine with it.

Then the 2nd headgasket blew on that same truck just earlier this month - so we're a bit paranoid with the Rodeo in not wanting the same fate.

I'm the original owner and it's never overheated, and I have the tranny flushed every 30k miles. Wish I had more faith in just dropping the pan, and doing it that way, but I'm a bit leary of not adding the right amount.

How often do you drop your tranny pan?

[rodeo02]

Originally Posted by jmeyert4a

From "D" on down shift, nothing happens until you get to "L".

If I try to take off in 2,3 or "D", it's all the same... Just like "winter mode".

No "kick-down" or "passing mode".


JM

All the rodeos I've dealt with have "PRND321" No "L". (not that familiar with the early 1990 models) It sounds like you are not getting 4th (AKA- "D" or "OD") or torque converter lockup, but most AT's wont go into 4th or lock the TC until the engine is up to operating temp. Once you verify proper operating voltage (14VDC), I'd then look into the TRS.

Joel